2nd Generation Dodge Non-Powertrain

Was waiting in line at the drive throught for my baconator & baconator fries fix and noticed something on the dash out of the corner of my eyes. Looked at the dash and the abs light came on then off a few times. I was in park and idling at the time so it threw me for a loop becasue I wasn't moving. Anybody got any ideas? I checked alt the other night & ac volts at 0.045. Thanks in advnace. L8tr d

Well it happened wrecked my 01. It bent the front part of the frame under the rad. support. Hopefully I have a guy with a frame straightener to the rescue, this will be the second time this part of the frame will be straightened. Im sure it is weak and gonna be even weaker but I have no choice but to fix it. My biggest question is where to find motor mounts? The impact ripped the left mount, I find mounts with no dampeners in them and never the same brand. Looking to buy them all together. Am I missing something here?

What size is the bleeder screw on a 2001 Ram 2500 w/Dana 60? 10mm? Standard?

I finally installed a on/off/auto switch for my A/C. I get tired of the compressor cycling on and off while the truck is idling and now I have control of what vent selection it is on and off. While I was at it I decided to put in a switch for my lift pump. It is only used for priming and I didn't like the idea of the hobbs switch. I had no control and no indication if it was on. So, I simply disconnected the wires from the hobbs switch and installed an illuminated toggle switch. I didn't want to drill holes in the dash, bezel or anything else so I made a bracket and it attaches on 2 existing screws that secure the kick panel. I am happy with it so far.

Anyone know a good electrical person in North Georgia or the Chattanooga area? While running starter ( 20sec on, 2 min off) to bleed fuel lines, I ended up with electrical odor and light smoke in cab! I would imagine that dealership is going to be super expensive on this one. Thanks,Eric

I swapped out the dash on my truck with the help of a friend. Now i have this single plug left with no ideal where it goes. To top it off now my truck will not start. Can anyone help with pictures of the plug location. This plug has an Orange wire with a White tracer along with a Brown wire with a black tracer.

Today I made an effort to diagnose loose steering in my truck and installed the "Rock Solid Steering" kit from this guy that I bought a few years ago on a whim (realized before installing that it wouldn't fix my problem, but did the install anyway). http://rocksolidramtrucksteering.com/ I have to saw the wheel back and forth quite a bit, and tightening the box as recommended didn't take much slop out, it required very little change. My intermediate steering shaft has lots of lateral slop in it at the sliding joint, but I couldn't hold one end and rotate the other relative to it (radial slop undetected). It may be replaced soon, so any sugges…

I had been running a Vixen air horn setup, consisted of the horn and a little 1.5 gallon tank with a built in compressor. I put a T-fitting on the line so I could use it to air up tires on occasion. That little compressor finally crapped out. The motor still works but the bearing in the connecting rod of the compressor is nothing but dust and ball bearings now. I did a little research and learned about compressor duty cycles and decided to go with a new Viair 450C compressor which has a 100% duty cycle. I also got a new 5 gallon air tank so I woudn't spend as much time waiting for the little one to fill. It's probably a little overkill for my needs but the 450C was …

Going to work today, i was cruising at 45mph on county road. Noticed my gauge said i was running hot at 190f. R brake wasnt on and didn't notice anything unusual. So i tried driving differently and it only slightly affected it. So i thought maybe it was the gauge. Got onto highway road and got into lock up at 60 and it went down 30f. But soon after came right back almost. The slower i went the hotter it got. So when i got to work i checked the fluid and it was good level not burnt and still red. After work, i started the truck after sitting 10 plus hours and the gauge said the trans was at 130f. No way that's possible! I dunno why it…

looking at the pictures I thought that you had rear disc brake pics and earlier drum brakes mixed in the article. Now I realize that there is a set of drum shoes inside there for parking brake. Wow, :banghead:Do these shoes wear out very often? Should I plan on replacing with my rear pads/rotors?

About a month ago I experienced a hitch receiver failure on my 2002 2500 4WD Long Bed truck equipped with a Cummins engine and a manual 6 spd transmission. Although I have inspected the hitch many times over the years, I overlooked a critical area during those inspections. The hitch-to-frame fasteners (four on each side) were always tight. However, a couple of inches away from the fasteners (at the first 90 bend in the hitch receiver flange) is where the separation occurred. It started on the left rear side of the hitch receiver (a long time ago) and continued forward until the hitch receiver dropped away from the truck frame as I was pulling off to the side the road…

OK guys I had A guy put on new fenders and repaint my 01 well all the wires did not get put back on and or connected having trouble on location of a couple wires go can someone post a pic or give me a location where these wires go thanks in advance this is on the drivers side of truck

Ight guys I have a 2002 dodge 3500 6 speed. I've done changed the tps 3 different times. All three of them show 0.05v at idle and as soon as I try and adjust it it jumps up too 4.38v. Anyone else run into this problem?

I need to cut out and replace the coil spring buckets due to rust. I remember reading here that a spring compresser isn't needed if you remove this and that and support the frame while dropping the axle. As I prepare to do this I'd like a refresher. What all gets removed? Can I do both at one time or one then the other? Any other tricks or tips on replacing the buckets? TIA

Just a quick question. Finally getting my gauges in. Going to get my boost reading from the block plug behind the filter housing. My local hardware has the 3/4 to 1/8 bushing but only in galvanized. Wanted to make sure that was okay or if I needed to get a steel fitting.

Ok electrical is not my speciality, I have running and headlights. My back ups are out too. This phenomenon happined 2 months ago, lasted a day or so. I fiddled with the tilt on steering wheel and rached under dash and wiggled some wires went away. This time did the same thing, NO change! Now When I have a 6 pin trailer hooked up, I can accuate the break control and I have trailer Breaks and break lights on truck & trailer. HMMMM sound familer to anyone, hay Rogan chime in anytime... I know some of the culprits might be, fuses, flasher/ Turn Sig relay, Multifunctional switch, Emerg flasher switch... what do I add to the list to Ck this Wknd???? - - - Updated - - …

Fired up the truck this morning to go to the tire shop for 4 new tires on the rear axle, got 1 mile down the road and the "check gauges" light lit up. Voltage low on instrument cluster. Thought maybe the 150amp breaker tripped in the charge lead. Nope, it was fine. Turned around and went back home. Pit a voltage meter to the stud on the back of the alternator and she read 12.8v. I guess it's time. Ugh!!! If it isn't one thing it's another!

What does everyone think of having a section for parts numbers for our trucks? Maybe a section for the engine, tranny, and drivelines. As each one of us buys a part we could add to the list and each of us would be giving back a little to the site. If I am for bringing this up then you can give me a .

So after I was T boned Christmas eve and my drivers door pushed in. I finally got my replacement door on after doing the inner and outer rocker and some rust repair. Now my door won't latch tight. I adjusted the striker as far in as it will go, I even changed the latch assembly. But I can not get the door to latch tightly, it just rattles because it acts like the latch is only tripped part way. I'm at my wits end. I've been without my main truck since Christmas because the person who hit me didn't have insurance and my carrier drug their feet getting an adjuster out....

@Mopar1973Man @Me78569 I know that you 2 have been able to create a boost gauge for the OBDLink tool. I need some guidance setting this up with mine. I think it may help me diagnose other issues I’m having with my truck. First is where to go in the obdlink app to create the gauge?