2nd Generation Dodge Non-Powertrain

:hyper:Found a Rhino-Lined bed that is my color scheme for my truck, needs minor work compared to repairing the scraped side of mine.

I have a '99 24v 5.9 auto tranny and I need a apps connector. I have checking different wrecking yards with no luck.Does anybody know where I can get one.I live in Spokane, WA area. thank you

Anyone have the part number for the rear axle nut and wedge on a Dana 70. Or better yet a part number for the old style double nut system?

Hey guys I’m looking at replacing all the vacuum lines with some newer hose to prevent any more breaks or cracking. Does any know know if a kit or how much of the different sizes I would need todo so? Working on my 99 24V

guys I have a 2001 ram 2500 4x4 cummins automatic my rear seal is leaking anyone know a part number or what seal

Im looking to buy Carli starter kit, I want the shocks and front springs and sway bar endlinks. Just wondering where the best / cheapest place to order it from is.. Thank you.

With the rear axle chained it was easy. Immediate improvement. I'm going to build arms now that I've done a few track bars and jeep arms. First I can chuck the castor shims to get alittle more.

Lately my truck has been hard to steer at low speeds. I notice it happens more once the truck is at operating temperature. There is no issue with the brakes though. I have checked all ball joints and tie rod ends. They're good and tight. Fluid level is full in the reservoir. I do have some slack in steering box. Steering wheel slack is about 11 to 1 o'clock. I got under the truck and took a look around and found a leak between the vacuum pump and steering reservoir. Where should I start from here? I have heard that some slack in steering box is normal? I would assume my vacuum pump needs rebuilt. How can I diagnose a bad steering pump/reservoir? Are they rebuild a…

I know winter is a little ways off yet but didn't want to do this last minute. I decided to try and patch up my driver's side floor board today. It's temporary, should last a year or two until I get some other things done. Then I'll tackle the floors, rockers if needed and so on. I also learned today that a flux core welder from harbor freight is NOT the best tool for the job. I have the home made patch panel in there good enough until I can get to a buddy's house who has a mig. These are the after pics.

I replaced my heater core I had to unplug PCM and now my key dinger is ringing. It must have restored all the old settings. How do I go about turning it off again.

New here. Picked up a 98 12v in mint shape 112,000 miles. Stock everything. Neither power door lock works. You can hear both motors running, but nothing happens. I know the motors are in the latch assembly, but is there an easy fix for this? maybe a broken clip or something? PO said he hated power locks and never fixed them since he owned the truck (from 58,000 miles) but I kind of had the feeling he disabled them. Any suggestions? Not interested in paying the 125 apiece for new ones. Or anyone rebuild these? Or maybe something else?

I have a 2001 ram 3500 the hydro boost went out so I replaced the brake booster, and power steering pump. When I reinstalled the brake booster I bled everything and once I pushed the brake pedal it went to the floor, made a popping sound, stuck to the floor and drained all the fluid out of the weep hole. I have repeated this process 3 times with 2 different boosters and resealed one. I have absolutely no idea what’s going on or what I’m doing wrong.

Has anyone converted a set of sport headlights to HID (D2S or MLED2.0) on the low/high bulb? Is there enough room in the housing? I am wondering as I would like to use the high beam bulb socket for a warning strobe light.

What size is the bleeder screw on a 2001 Ram 2500 w/Dana 60? 10mm? Standard?

Mike? :)I don't have a factory or OE keyfob. Not even sure if my SLT has the OE alarm. But if it does, I'd like to tap into the door locks and see if I can tap the OE arm/disarm with my aftermarket Viper KE system.Just one of my random thoughts..

So this morning I installed an adjustable overflow valve and finally got my fuel pressure back in check. after finishing I took my truck for a test drive. As soon as I got to the end of my road I noticed my ABS and brake lights were still on. I pulled the emergency brake handle again but they still stayed on. The truck does run or stop any different then it did before. I did some searching in a bunch of forums and have read countless threads on this same problem. I first checked my wiring running from the RWSS Along the frame. It was chaffed through the protective loom but not through any of the wires. Then I ran up to advanced auto and picked up a new RWSS for …

is 285 50 20 to big for 2nd gen can get a steal on them thats why im asking running 265 75 16s now

I have a 95 12 valve that when I start it occasionally just my back hazards start to flash. The front ones stay off. When I press the brake the back ones stop flashing. The only way I can get the to start is by playing with (turning on and back off) my hazard switch. I was told maybe the hazards switch? Or maybe the brake switch connected to the hazards. Any ideas??

Many of us run larger tires on our trucks. The speedometer is calibrated to be accurate with the OEM tires. Many tire manufactures list the exact dimensions, weight, and revolutions per mile. It would be helpful/of interest if the correction math for distance, speed, and altered gear ratio were available. This would be helpful in figuring exact miles per gallon. Any of you mathematical folks interested in providing a step by step lesson?

My fold down cupholders that I just took out of the truck had a little light that clipped into the top but im wondering if the map pocket I just replaced it with has a light too? There is a small square hole towards the top but I dont remember unhooking a light and I cant find one dangling behind the dash of the donor truck.