2nd Generation Dodge Non-Powertrain

2001 2500. Has a leak since new. Dodge had it in 12 times in the first 5 years. I finally gave in and got a charge kit. Back then it needed a chg every 6 mos. Now it is up to every 30 days. Tried some canned stop leak. Tried dye and black light. finding nothing. Is there a hi teck sniffer leak detector that could be rented? Can not see into the interior ac compartment. How likely the leak to be in there? Checked for dye around compressor and all connectors and every line except the wrapped lines. Any help?

Anyone have recommendations on a new gearbox? I’m sick of 3 inches of steering wheel slop lol. Napa has a reman box for 179$ plus core but not sure if a reman is ok?

Took my pickup into the local mom and pop shop for a once over and see if they could diagnose my loose steering. Their verdict was ball joints are shot. Trucks has 135k mi and no telling if they’ve ever been changed. After doing some reading it sounds like dodges have a spec for allowable up and down play. You can see how much these move from the wear mark. Does this look out of spec?

After riding around formthe past 2 or 3 years with this broken pos, i got upgrade. I think I gotm2 more horse power out of it. I went to the salvage yard Saturday. A long put off trip.

I 'thought' I had started a thread on Cab Lights before, but the search turned up nada.. At any rate, I installed clear lens/amber LED cab lights this past weekend. My truck did not have them from the factory, so I bought some EuroLite 9-LED ones for a Ford, from eBay for $70 delivered. I liked the Ford-style ones better, so that's what I went with. They arrived in a box, no instructions, no packaging, only an invoice, lights, and packing peanuts... Since my truck didn't have cab lights, I had to drill.. In a nutshell: [*]Drop headliner (phillips screws hold visors, pinch clips for overhead console, T20 for pass. side grab-handle, T20 for…

I had a couple of these laying around https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073ZBNBHS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and replace the dome light and the map lights with them. I also repaired the exploded springy map light switch in the truck today (a resent development) with the aid of some crazy glue and a zip tie for extra insurance. I'm sure some of you have encountered that seemingly common failure. Looks like the one on the driver's side already went through the process of fail and glue. I added a zip tie to that one too. I've been using these same LED light bulbs (link above) in something else for about a year and they hav…

I replaced my brand new Napa reman box with a Bluetop and my steering is so much nicer but it is still hard to steer like the ps pump ain’t working right. Also the new box won’t return to center on its own any suggestions? I’m very satisfied with my steering other than these issues. I’m going to be going back to stock wheels and 245 tires soon hopefully that will help with handling to....

I had a misfortune get me today. I was asked by the fire chief to help him with fire trucks and to meet him at Station #3 at 11:30am. I did just that. I showed up at the fire station backed into my usual spot. Sitting there I decided to get some stuff out of the back of the truck and when I opened my drivers door the wind caught pulled so hard I couldn't hang on. Blam! It slung the door so hard the the forward lip of the door made contact with the hinges and tweaked the upper hinge. Now the top of the door is out another 1/4". I'm hoping I can adjust the door again for now and be close. I'll get photos in the morning in the daylight.

Went in to the tire store today with a slow leaking tire. Turns out to be a cracked rim. I bought a used set of oe rims a while back so I have some spares, but with 3 rims with cracks I dont think what I have is going to last much longer. So I have done alot of looking this evening and while there are a lot of wheels out there I find very few that have the same off set and backspace as the OE. From my research and doing some measuring of the OE rims it would appear I need a 43mm off set and 6.2" back space. Not sure why you need the 2 measurements. It would seem to me the they are 2 different ways to measure the same thing. Almost everything I saw had a 0mm off set. Not s…

I live in south central Texas and here it seldom gets below freezing and if it does its not but a day or two. I deleted my old truck and cant remember how I did it. If I remove the positive wires going to solenoids and to grid is that all there is to it?

My original seat cushion was SHOT! I've been wanting to replace this for some time, but I hesitated dropping the money on a cushion. This was very simple to do and it only took 45 minutes from start to finish. The bottom is easily removed with a 10mm socket, there are 4 bolts that are easily accessed from underneath the seat. With the seat removed, the cover was removed by pulling the clips attached to the fabric that was secured to the metal frame. The fabric cover is held onto the cushion with 2 Velcro strips and 3 hog rings. The replacement cushion came with replacement hog rings. The 4th picture is of the rings, sorry, I didn't realize it was so …

I have a switch box from a police car that I want to install for various things in the future. I'm not sure where the best place to pull power from would be. I have it down to either the positive side of the battery (driver's side) or the power lead that feeds the fuse box under the hood. Which would be better? I know either one of those places would not be keyed power so I would have to be sure all accessories are off when I shut her down. The switch box I have is rated for quite a bit. Switch 1 is routed through a 40a automotive breaker, switches 2-6 are protected by 20a blade type fuses in the rear of the box. Any help or ideas are appreciated. Thanks.

So I been running 5" with a muffler and its sounding old. Back a few years ago I heard people talking about running Catalytic Converters that had a good sound to them. I just find it hard to put a cat on my truck. lol Anybody running them or is it bunk?

Anyone know if it's just the screws that leak? I changed out all the little plastic washers under the screw heads using neoprene washers from pole barn metal screws. Seems to gasket pretty well but, wondering if the leak comes from the lens base instead. I was afraid to pull them up since they are stuck on. Might tear the gasket underneath. Tell me where the leak comes from :ashamed:TIA.

Installed the Raptor yesterday and it was running fine at 18 psi until this evening when I took the truck to the car wash.. after pulling out I noticed the fuel pressure gauge was reading 16 psi.. 5 minutes later.. 15psi.. by the time I got home it was down to 8psi. Got underneath the hood and noticed one of the fittings was leaking a bit.. figured that's where the pressure loss was coming from, but I took it all apart and re-did the teflon tape.. put it all back together again.. dry as a bone now, but only reading 7psi. Turned the screw on the pump up.. but no change in pressure. Any ideas? I can't imagine a pump that sits on the frame of the truck wouldn't be able to …

I have been looking for a good bumper for a while and ran across this one the other day on C/L in grand junction, and practically stole it for 750.00. Its brand new never been mounted. its got a winch mount so ill be adding more weight in the near future. as you can see in the pic truck is sagging about an inch or two, so to level it back up would a leveling kit be a wise option or should I just buy oem replacement springs. These ones have about 280k on then so I'm sure they are getting a little week. Ive heard to stay away from those poly spacers but don't know, I've never dealt with the issue

I drove from Chicago to Indiana and visit my parents over the holiday. I had been in Indiana about 2 days, driving down the street coming to one of the worst intersections in town and pushed on the brakes and it was like pushing on a solid rock. I'd gotten both the ABS and the brake light for about 24 hours before that but I looked on the forums and no one seemed to be very concerned about it. So I didn't think much about it figure I'd fix it when I got home. While I was stopping and the brakes weren't responding I felt the brakes come back the pedal went down like it should and I was able to stop the truck. Can the ABS cause a problem like this? It seems…

There is a Tech Service Bulletin TBS 05-04-98 easily found once I saw a forum about it and wanted to share it here. http://dodgeram. info/tsb/1998/05-04-98.htm Essentially it proportions the fluid pressure based on height/ load. Not the perfect scenario. So the Rod was Rotted off this valve when I got the Truck. Here is the info I found and I am going to Eliminate it because I wil not load anything extreme or do any road racing..... Here are the important snipits from the TBS I hope this corrects the link there was a space in the address http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1998/05-04-98.htm

97 2500 CTD- I've got a rear parking light out on the driver side, turn signal and brake light are fine, All other park lights come on as normal. I know my headlight switch is worn some because if I pull the switch out to turn on the headlights some times I have to jiggle it to get the headlights to come on. Could a worn out headlight switch cause that one park light not to come on ?

Gents: Have a battery draw down and my shop traced it to the Seat Belt Timing Module. DAP called 10 sources, my shop has called multiple and no luck. I've seen some videos how to bypass but not ready for that yet. At this point my plan is to go to a junk yard and harvest a used unit, but would certainly prefer a new or remanufactured one. Any thoughts or direction would be greatly appreciated.