2nd Generation Dodge Non-Powertrain

A little over a year ago I posted a thread seeking help on my A/C. You can view it here: http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/8324-need-ac-help/ It has since been archived, but I'll give you the background to it here to save you some reading. The problem:(taken from the original post): "Most of the time (95%), my A/C just blows hot air regardless of where the temperature control knob is. If I have been driving for a while, especially on the highway, the A/C might start blowing nice cold air. I never get too excited because soon after that, I will hear a single pop noise under the hood and the air gets hot again. This pop noise (thud or thump might be mo…

Well I got to admit I learned something and feel like a dumb arse... Ok years ago I stuck a piece of hardware mesh in front of the coolers to protect them from bug, stones, etc. What happened is the wind was flexing the screen and rubbing the A/C condenser. If we dig in the archives I'll admit I JB welded the rub marks thinking to protect the line from future damage. Well the damage was done. :banghead: I took the truck to Lewiston, ID to let a tech track down the leak for me. Found out R134A freon mocule is so small it passes through the JB weld epoxy and the tech found the green dye leeching through the JB weld. Sad part is the condenser and the high side pipe are both …

Ok guys I was tinkering the other day and I dead shorted a fuse:mad:.The real problem is I cant figure what fuse it is.:o The fuse controls under hood light,interior dome lights,cargo light and radio.Any help appreciated!!:confused:

All i gauges including tach, radio, speedo, oil coolant and battery quit plus a lot of symbols on panel stay lit. truck still runs and can't find any codes dont know if it's safe to proceed or not

Hopefully i dont have to remove dash.better yet, how do i keep them out and how do they get there in the first place?

Anyone have a source for them for a 99 truck? I can find 01 and up but none for 99. It's all coming apart for ball joints soon so now would be a good time to get some back on.

I've been thinking about cleaning up and painting under the hood. I've googled some pics of Cummins engines painted up and looking sharp. Just wondering if anyone on here has done it. So, if you've detailed and cleaned up your Cummins or painted it up to make her pretty post a pic. I'd like to see them just for some ideas.

I posted my concern regarding my FP gauge on the CF a week or two ago... thinking maybe my lift pump was the issue. KATOOM indicated that gauge may not be working correctly and suggested I contact ISSPRO. I posted in their sponsor's forum but no response. I just read another post regarding the FP gauge when the truck is turned off... whether it should or shouldn't drop to zero.. and the consensus is yes it should. I just checked mine and it does not drop when I shut down. Here's a video of a first start this morning. Shows the pressure at 16 from last night.. what happens when I turn the key (which was my intitial concern a couple weeks ago.. no build in p…

Anyone know what wires do what in the plugs?I'm putting a heated power seat from a 2000 ram in a 01.5 ram,plugs are different,and my 01 had el cheapo seats in it,so it's only got 2 wires....must be the seatbelt warning.Trying to wire the darn heat controls in is going to be a PITA...Thanks in advance!

a few months ago, I replaced my shocks all the way around on my truck. They were shot, replaced them with bilstein 5100. It definitely helped the up and down recover, but the truck still bounces side to side a lot more. What I mean is if I hit a speed bump one tire at a time, the truck rocks side to side much more than I remeber it doing originally. Looked at the sway bar links, and don't see any kind of wear on it, even when I bounce it manually. So maybe the coils are tired? How can you tell? What other causes might there be? Up and down is fine, so I don't think its the shocks.

hello every one. i seem to remember getting notified by mail about a recall for head gaskets for my 01 5.9. Does any else remember or know of a recall simular to that ?

So I was wanting to get new leather seats for my truck. The katzkin leather I heard is popular, it's a kit that just pulls over the seat i believe, a dealer would install it for 1600 buck, that's material cost and labor . Anybody done this to there truck before? Does it seem to good to be true, maybe cheap product or something else? Also leatherseats.com has some nice looking seats you can make for 1300bucks, not including install.

What are you guy's running?Mine is straight piped, Looking to making it A little more quiet,would like to cut the noise. But not close to stock. 4'' in 4'' out, looking for something that sounds powerfull,,,What brands/cost/SS or not. Thanks In Advance....

I installed a Pacbrake C44064 inline exhaust brake and it works great. Except for the brake, that is. Compressor works as it’s supposed to, supplying air to the quick-connect and Packbrake air tank. When I flip the switch on the shifter mounted brake switch the solenoid on the compressor does not supply air to the brake. The solenoid on the compressor that supplies air to the brake cylinder does cycle when I apply 12V to it direct from the battery via a jumper wire, so I checked for voltage to ground coming from Pin 20 on the ECM while the truck was running at idle. No voltage was present. Any ideas why this pin isn’t energized at idle? I’m in the mids…

My driver side rear signal and brake light stopped working - I replaced the bulb, checked the fuses (fuses were fine), and checked the wire harness w/ the gage, and it is still not working. I checked the trailer outlet and there was no power coming to it, either. I'm out of ideas - help would be appreciated! PS - everything is fine w/ the passenger side. :wtf:is going on?

BFG KM2's 305/65/17 on Mickey Thompson Classic III 17" x 9" wheels I'll be putting the stock 16 x 8 aluminum wheels in the classified section soon if interested.

I built a mpg/high idle for my truck a month or so back and I am having a problem and hope that I can get some insight. When I turn on the high idle I get a temp reading on my Scangage 2 of 137 water temp and 31 iat temp. If and when it starts the high idle as soon as it hits 1200RPM it goes to 3 cylinder. I have a 3 cylinder switch that will make the iat read 13 degrees but it makes no difference. This has worked this way except once when the outside temp was below 32 degrees. I tried to have a dodge dealer check this and they said that I have a 12v ( manufacture date is Feb 1998 ). I know that it has been flashed for the high idle buy the PO but he didn't know that it h…

Today I went ahead and did this mod ( http://www.midwestdieselconnection.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1812 ) since I traced it all out and didn't see any risk to it. Well since the lights are hooked up in parallel, they see the same voltage. I was curious as to how much they pulled the voltage down, if any and was quite surprised. The headlights have 3 wires going to them and they contain 2 elements in each one. One for dim and one for brights. The 3 wires are for ground, dim, and brights. So I took the connector off of one headlight and started the truck and measured between the ground and dim terminals, then from the ground to bright terminals. I then me…

I have the picture of the cummins engine.Next to the factory fuel filter it has two sets of wires out of the harness.One is the fuel heater and one is the water in fuel.Is the one that is the "thick" wire the fuel heater.It looks like 12 gauge wire?The clips look the same.My factory fuel filter is long gone and i have forgot whats what.Thanks. ---------- Post added at 07:32 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:52 AM ---------- a fresh look this morning the clips are different.The fuel heater should be the 12 gauge wire.I cant see that 16 gauge doing big work like heating fuel.

I know the classic abs/brake lights, one of the many curses for these truck but here we go. replaced both front sensors, replaced the sensor in the rear diff, checked all the wiring, checked the switch for the e-brake, brake fluid is good, all calipers work as they should. Recently came into a good scanner that could read ABS codes and hooked it up, it'll read engine no problem but not abs. Is it possible that the abs module is mad and not allowing the scanner to read and that's why the lights are on? (I also thought maybe it doesn't work but I read the codes on the jeep and the other ram, found out those issues so I know it wor…