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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/20/2018 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    I've had this truck for about a year now. Ups and downs like every 2nd gen but overall I am very happy with this truck. Prepare for picture overload. Quick run down. A buddy posted this truck for sale on fb the day before the transmission decided to die in my grand prix (shocker). I bought this as to be a dd/tow rig when needed. The truck is originally from Texas and moved around a bit. I did find the owner on fb that brought the truck up to Indiana/Michigan and he provided some history on it. The box was trashed from day one. The owner I bought it from did not own up to rolling the truck onto it's side which cause bed damage and some door push in at the bottom. Nothing too crazy on the cab, door or fend. Box took the most of it. The engine, transmission and tcase are of unknown origin as Kurt (guy who brought it up to the north) sold it as a roller. It is a 180hp engine, 47re and DHD tcase. No clue how they found the correct drivetrain to stick back in it but they did. Lucky me. From day one this truck was weak. Even for a stock 12v. Ended up being the injection pump yayyyyyy. I got lucky and found a 180hp pump that had been gone through. Runs pretty well now. I will be going through the transmission to support my needs and have most of the parts already. Replacement/fixed stuff I have gone through; front brakes, ball joints, axle joints, track back, steering linkage, steering box, transfer case, front main seal, gauge wiring, dtt voltage box removal & wiring repair, thermostat, a/c line, water pump, stainless flex lines, led lights through out, projector retrofits, double din stereo, recovered head liner, 5% tint, two sets of wheels & tires and I think that is it. I am getting ready to do an axle swap to get better brakes as the single piston calipers are a JOKE. Now for the pictures and I'll try to get them in order.
  2. I see so much bs abounding everywhere that its a wonder how folks can develop any good judgement at all. Just go to big city... you'll see what I mean.
  3. Thanks for the help everyone, the truck seems to be running normal today!
  4. 2 points
    My punch out carpenter showed me this today. Cant believe I beat @IBMobile to this one. Be patient and hear the last verse.
  5. HERE'S HOW TO REPLACE IT
  6. We don’t need your sound logic and judgement round here! *puts tin foil hat on* To the OP. If I were to be redoing things again today, I’d get an Airdog through Eric at Vulcan just because Eric at Vulcan. I trust him personally to make things right if something were to ever go wrong more than either company combined.
  7. 1 point
    I put a 1/2" fuel line over 1/8" guage line, so in case it does leak it will be outside of cab, it pokes out an inch or so pass the firewall.I it's the blue line, also notice on air horn I used same fitting and 1/8" line for boost. This is what I used, no problems yet. It's a push in fitting.
  8. 1 point
    Marcus, I have the Isspro Mechanical EV1 gauges for 10 years on my truck Isspro are excellent guages They work great, Never had a problem at all . Fuel Pres. Trans Temp, Pyro, and Boost The trans oil temp EV1 is electric the rest are mechanical I actually have the idolator with my fuel pressure gauge, came with the 3 gauge kit, and never had a problem with it either. No leaks at all, ever Mechanical gauges are the most reliable and accurate. Old school Hot Rodder Style .
  9. Maybe I'm not reading it right......Are you sure you want that for a lift pump and big line kit?
  10. 1 point
    Oh come on you wanted all the bells and whistles. Actually I wanted to find a way to hook up the relay to the check gage light and chime. Crazy idea...
  11. Yes, its already there. You just need to update your vehicle profile and it will show up.
  12. No, take the compressor housing off and measure the diameter of the wheel itself.
  13. Do not believe any of the published videos for airdog or fass. They are nothing but propaganda.
  14. You probably right, but I watched some of fass videos before I got mine and they claimed that their 100 would outflow competitors 150, guessing they were talking about air dog, but then again what sales people wouldn't do for a sale.
  15. It would be great if they actually rated the pumps by what they flow at pressure through the filters. Most of you would cry.
  16. 1 point
    Literally 100% depends on how far you want to push it. Both have made over 800hp to the wheels.
  17. I love that feature. Basically, park your truck and leave it on level 1. Set the power for that level to 20%. Now the truck barely drives about 20-25 MPH top speed and struggles to do it. Quadzilla (180 HP $743.00) - $4.12 per horsepower Edge Comp (120 HP $600.00) - $5.00 per horsepower Edge Juice CTS (180 HP $1,000.00) - $5.55 per horsepower XZT (60 HP $358.00) - $5.96 per horsepower Edge EZ (60 HP $430.00) - $7.16 per horsepower Smarty (60 HP $649.00) - $10.81 per horsepower Smarty Touch (60 HP $865.00) - $14.41 per horsepower BOLD - Custom tunable Here is the break down of the common tuners and the prices from the manufacturer. The two in bold are custom tuneable where the rest are canned tunes and you must accept it as is nothing can be changed about the tuning. As you'll see I broke it down into price per horsepower. Then from the least expensive price per HP to the most going down. I know some people will argue the Smarty Touch yes it does produce way more HP but on the 2003 and up Common Rail engine. For our 24V trucks it's only a 60 HP tuner because it got no ability to wire tap making it the most expensive per HP.
  18. Done on the internal code that we cannot edit.
  19. If you're going to spend money anyway, just get the Adrinalin. You'll thank yourself later. And don't forget the anti-theft option on Quadzilla, good luck trying to drive it very far especially if you don't know what to unplug.
  20. That's one thing I never liked about some of the tuners like Edge Juice and Quadzilla the gauges are included but at least Quad works without the gauges. I've always had stand-alone gauges. If I don't want to pack my cell phone I don't have to the Quadzilla still functions without a screen present. Now Edge Juice will not function without a screen present and very visible to a thief you've got a tuner. This gives my truck the kind of "stealth look" there is no tuner visible in the cab and less likely to be broken into because it looks like a stock truck with gauges that's all.
  21. ok boys....feast your eyes....
  22. I'm glad you got it sorted out. I actually see this on a very regular basis on the 24 valve 2nd gens. It would be interesting to know whether they need better diodes, or better cooling for the diodes that are being used.
  23. 1 point
    I'll have to agree with the EGR system that is a very stupid system that never worked since the 70's. If you are feeding the engine CO2 mixed with the air you are decreasing the amount of oxygen that the fire can burn reducing power. Then turn around you are demanding more power to make up for the loss of power. Hence wasting fuel. I don't buy the acid rain thing that the EGR is supposed to prevent. That would be a good idea. Can you explain that...
  24. 1 point
    Unfortunately I don't think it matters how many smart people get together to try and solve the problem. An EGR is an EGR - they'll always decrease efficiency and fill the intake with soot. The rest of the exhaust system might be okay for now. It seems people with 2013+ have many less issues than the 07.5-09 and even the 10-12 model years. I've read the EGR is open a lot less on the 2013+, but after having a monitor and seeing mine open 30+% at almost all times I'm not convinced that information is correct. I think if the manufactures can get rid of the EGR and work on increasing the reliability of the rest of the exhaust system things will be pretty decent. Until then, those of us who don't want to deal with "200 miles until 5mph" will delete.
  25. We've got a heck of a thread going attempting to resolve the whole alternator AC noise issue for good. The best I can tell you that the grid heater are the cause of the diodes failing as for solution for keeping the diodes from getting damaged is still not found yet. We are working for a long-term solution. I'm still of the opinion that the grid heaters as the age and the solenoids that control them tend to create more load than the alternator can handle so the diodes overheat and fail.
  26. This pretty much sums up the last several days in my neck of the woods. Hettinger is roughly 100 miles sw of my house. I have seen pics of peoples thermometers showing -50 to -55 last night in low lying areas of western ND. I have been sitting and tending the wood stove the last 3-4 days. Today I ventured out for a 6 mile run after it warmed up to around -10*f lol.
  27. 0 points
    When the truck has a DEF issue, it'll pop up with a message that you have 200 miles until it goes into a 5mph limp mode. Now if you keep the truck running it'll keep going past 200 without an issue. If you shut it down, it could get stuck in limp mode.
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