Mopar1973Man

There is a balance between upkeep maintenance and failing vehicle. I know the difference. I had a 1972 Dodge Power Wagon that was this way it seem like every time I turned around I was off to a wrecking yard looking for part for this old beast. This way a reason I bought my truck new in 02.

PM Sent...

Just a mild swap of 265's to 235's will rid that problem. They are both 31" tires just the 235's are 1.18" (30 mm) narrower and 0.04" (1 mm) inches taller (1 rev per mile more). But the 235's are roughly 23 pounds lighter over the 265's. Look better on 16x7 wheel vs 16.5x7 stock wheels.

When you get to pulling the heads off look at the head gasket closely and see if the coolant seal was rotted out from corrosive coolant. Being that Lincoln doesn't have a turbo and high compression ratios I doubt it was compression caused.

Hey diesel4life do you happen to have that part number of that thermostat? I would like to order one.

I've hear the same thing too that ATF should not be used in these truck because of a some design difference. I know people do it all the time but typically the net result is steering box that leaks or other issues.

I've seen several of those. Hate to rub noses in this... But.... That is a sign of owner abuse and lack of vehicle inspection which should occur during you typical oil change. You should be rotating tire at your oil change while all 4 tires are off you should take the few seconds and look at the brake pads.

Mothballs work better in enclosed spaces that are fairly air tight.

I just got a PM from him he's still with us just got personal issues going on...

Your not winning...

Ummm... I don't think I've got the guts to lick that tape either.

Thermostat bulb down. Typically mark on which side up or down. Bolt on the thermostat cover no sealant required. I typically put a dab of anti-seize on the bolt threads.

It would be nice to have current weights of both the truck and trailer. (Fully loaded). Me personally found that a Edge Comp module and small injector like RV275's or +50HP are very controllable. Even with the Edge Comp on 5x3 the EGT's are controllable and gives good performance. I'm still running BHAF, Straight pipe 3" exhaust and a HX35 turbo. I typically gross out at 17,000# but that's a far cry from your trailer weight. This why I was asking for current weights with water and everything.

Even a Vulcan Big Line kit and Stock pump is better...

If there is any Scotchlocks make sure to repair the wires properly solder and shrink tube and get rid of the Scotchlocks.

That where a good part of my waste oil goes is to lighting the yard trash and getting it burned off. Here is the results of burning WEO or ATF... What your looking at is ash build up on the injectors.

I wouldn't use WEO for fuel any longer being that engine oil has compound like anti-scorching, ash content is up and other things added to the engine oil. The amount of carbon in the oil is also bad too. So if it was me I would just send the waste oil to a collection site. Out here in Idaho most collection sites are picked up by people use for waste oil heaters. But I don't suggest using for fuel.

Pump is most likely starting to wear out. But I would verify the fuel pressure is up to snuff and the fuel meets the lubricity requirements of Bosch (<450 HFRR) which today's US fuel is typically ~520 HFRR so it does cause more wear.

Update... I called him again and also sent a email to him... Starting to get a bit worried about him...

I'm also running a Donaldson pre-filter water separator but also kept the stock filter with a Fleetguard filter in the stock can.

Welcome to the family Hodap56... Make yourself at home there is a lot of helpful folks here that will get you over your bind.

Torque management is nothing more than ECM monitoring the ABS computer over the CCD network for road speed and keep the throttle defuelled till you reach roughly 25 MPH and then opens up to full fuelling of the ECM. This prevents the engine from producing excessive torque on lower gears to prevent transmission damage.

Fuse F in the power distribution box under the hood. It should be a 20A fuse.

I would still solder and shrink tube all of it. LED light are more durable to shock and bouncing that a trailer does and won't blow out LED...

I would think that bad wiring would of tossed a injector code. That's my thought its going to be compression related being there isn't any codes.