Mopar1973Man

Suggestion...Just remember to stay after the marker lights and check the sealant they do start leaking after awhile. This is one of the few reasons why I never added lights to my truck. I don't want the issues with roof leaks.

Even my HX35W is...55 MPH = 2-3 PSI65 MPH = 5-7 PSI75 MPH = 7-9 PSI Roughly speaking.

Now as for dead pedal it defined as no throttle response over the entire range of pedal from idle to WOT. So true dead pedal the truck just idles and won't move. More or less like unplugging the APPS sensor.What you describing is a limited throttle.

:think:APPS sensor is powered by the +5V of the ECM and ground by the ECM. So its not a APPS sensor. Now the VP44 is grounded to the driver side battery cable and so is the ECM. So I would test the main battery cables for voltage drop and see if there is more than 0.2 volts lost during heavy load. But the A/C and blower grounds are not even near the battery ground. The blower is grounded in the cab and controlled by a relay in the PDC under the hood. Then the A/C is grounded on the left rear of the engine block.

Kind of like pull out a head light fuse for the left bulb there is no power to that bulb but if you turn on the headlights then the bulb glows dim because power is given from the headlight back through the ground circuit.

All too often people chop up the trailer wiring for one reason or another. I suggest you take a peek under the truck check the rear for slices or scotch-loc's and then do the same in the cab. I know these trucks can with a trailer brake controller pigtail you can get from the dealer for your controller. Double check that someone didn't get lazy and chop up the cab wiring for it.

Yes. There is also another bundle of grounds in the center of the dash also linked to that same ground.

Both the WTS light and the lift pump are directly controlled by the ECM there is no other outside device that control these.

It's a sign of high EGT's what typically cracks the exhaust manifolds. So you might want to change that I know they are not cheap but I'm sure digging around on the Internet or forums you'll find a used one for sale. With the cracked manifold your losing drive pressure to the turbo so boost pressure is going to be weaker. Not to mention the exhaust fumes in the cab. (cough, gag, cough). With your mild mods you should consider installing a EGT gauge with the new manifold.

Well this trip went wrong from the get go. [*]Forgot my 2 front headache rack boards. [*]When I attempt to fall the tree it sat back and bound the bar. Had to beat wedges in to free the saw. [*]The some where coming down the road I had a flat tire. So when I got back toward home I swung into a family friend place and dump the load off in her yard. Yeah! I gave the load away to a friend free of charge. I'm tired...

Just go to the User Control panel and edit your signature. :thumbup2:As for the timing thing. I would be careful I know that the pump is modifed its timing and stacking more on might or might not case issues. This one of the few reason 80-90% of people say to get get a stock SO pump then you can do anything you wish module wise but have a Special X or Hotrod Pump there is added timing on the pump and could be risky adding more on with a module and then work the truck hard towing. The problem is no one know exactly how much extra the pump is giving then how much a module is giving in timing combine who knows? I'd rather error to the side of safety...

Even if you do straight out the overhead computer it will never be correct in MPG. The only time its even close is a purely stock truck but with that Special X it no longer even going to be close. Now like a ScanGauge you can calibrate both flow and distance and get a corrected number that is closer or dead on the money.Perosnally I would give up on the over head pull it out and put the blank back in there. Then get a ScanGauge or Ultragauge and be done with it.MPG = Speed MPH / Flow GPH22 MPG = 55 MPH / 2.50 GPHSo as you see from the math is speed or flow is off then the rest is off. Since there is no way to calibrate the flow in a overhead computer it will always be incorrect. As for the special X I suggest you don't add a timing module on top. You could use a TST fueling box or a Smarty (without timing) and be fine. Excessive timing isn't good either. Hence why with Edge Comp and Smarty with timing is not suggested either for the same reasons. But i'm sure there will be people saying they done it. I look at efficiency and longevity not HP/TQ numbers and racing two different stories.

I think it would vent fine but the chances of getting water or other liquid in the vent tube is high. That why I mention the bed cross member tube low chance of water enter then. Kind of like snowmobile fuel tank vents if you look at it it starts at the top and wrap completely around the tank back to the starting point. This system prevent fuel from leaking out highly unlikely to draw water in.

Strange... My truck spend most of it life in the dirt and mud of Idaho. I never had a issue with the tank vent clogging or plugging. I would consider cleaning the tank vent with a small drill bit in your fingers and a bit of compressed air. I really don't like the ideas of drill holes in the fuel cap I would rather fix the actual problem that band-aid it. So like the current tank vent a guy could clean it out and then add a piece of vinyl tubing to it and tuck the other end up in the bed cross bar to keep it clean. There is so many other solutions that drilling holes in the fuel cap.

Something misaligned on the clutch assembly?I know after market clutches can be quite stiff but the fact that it difficult to shift gears is telling me the clutch is dragging the input shaft. Making it difficult to change gears.

That's the thing its not the actual 4WD circuit its another circuit most likely that shares that same ground. Try checking the ABS computer and the G100 ground (left fender).

There is a aftermarket solution to the steering shaft bearing at the bottom of the steering column. http://rocksolidramtrucksteering.com/

Could you help me out? Could you fill out your signature with your truck information. Then I know what you have.Both the Wait To Start and the Lift pump are Internal ECM problems. Yo could try taking it to a dealer and allowing them to hookup a DRBIII tool and see if there is a diagnostic they can run. But typically the ECM should light the WTS light for a small period of time and the lift pump should be active for a short 1 second burst. There is no lift pump relay. The relay in the PDC is the power relay to the VP44.

I'm trying to get away from that. My lower back doesn't allow me to continue lifting heavy rounds. I would rather have a lower trailer that I don't have to lift so high. I can have all the width I like that's fine but got to remain short in length. As you can see I've a got a 8x8 trailer with a utility box and spare tire. Just a cheap old Chrysler 5 lug car axle and 1 ton dodge springs. No trailer brakes. Just 31"x10.50 R15 Tires LR C's. I know if I continue to haul on this old homemade trailer I'm going to kill the axle. So that why I'm looking forward to upgrading. All road I work on are single lane dirt roads with pullout every now and then. I've had this trailer now for over 10 years and 99% of it road time is on dirt roads. No I don't haul fast, nor aim for every big hole in the road. My typical road speed is about 20-25 MPH empty and about 10-15 MPH load headed down hill. So I've got to either upgrade the exiting trailer which will cost around $1,200 to $1,500 to upgrade which will not upgrade hauling space just axle. So I'm working at try to expand carrying capacity in length a bit but trying not to get carry away because of turn around issue in the forest. But I would like to aim for about 2 cords capacity (256 Cu.ft.) and should roughly weigh out at 4,000 lbs. dry weight for standard cord of wood. I know this value can and will change up and down from one family of tree to another, weather, rain, etc. The other problem is loading and unload my ATV in my current trailer. You have to careful unloading because of the deck height the ATV can just about flip over backward unloading. So you have to be careful of the angle the trailer is sitting in before unloading. Once again a lower deck is desired. Like back last fall when I bought the gates. I was going to buy a single gate. But since I don't have a trailer big enough I couldn't haul it home. Basically if it will fit in my truck it will fit in the trailer and visa-versa. But if it large then it won't fit either. Another problem. So... I've been talking to MoparMom and we are still going down and hit the dealer lot and see what he's got to offer. Maybe there is something used that fits better. I don't know. But sitting up here in New Meadows, ID and only looking at pictures and specs it time to hit the lots and see what there is... That's for a standard 8' foot wide frame trailer. Now custom cut the axle to fit the above trailer? Now the price goes up quickly because all the existing springs have to come off and be replaced, my wheels and tires most like won't fit the hubs (more expense), so pay a shop labor time to figure this all out to custom build and install a single axle (more expense), etc. Back to the same issue at hand limited carry space and limited axle again.

I've got to watch the length. Where I'm up cutting firewood there is little space for turning around. I really do hate driving 2 miles up to turn around or having to backup to my cutting spot over 2 miles that really a PITA. As for axles I'm running a Chrysler car axle under my 8x8 now (5 lug). Never bent it yet with all the overloading I've done to it. 15" tires that all I've had on the 8x8 now. Just 31"x10.50 R15 Load Range C's. After all the talking with Kelly last night I was trying to stay as short as possible because of road limitations. But after talking to the dealer there is a huge upswing in price on the 70TV vs. 60CH. So it might not even happen. :rolleyes:It just that my trailer is high deck to the the width over the wheels which makes it sway a bunch on dirt roads that are rutted, plus no trailer brakes at all. So I started looking into replacing the current axle with a custom made to fit and was getting prices of $1,200 roughly without, wheels and tires Just a axle custom fitted to my old pickup trailer with brakes. For a extra $800 ($2,000) I could do the 60CH which is 16 foot but have to add my own side racks. Or jump to $2950 for the 70TV. Now its getting tight for funds...

Hey gang. I'm going be upgrading trailers to improve hauling firewood. I spent a better part of the evening talking with Kelly (Taz) on the phone discussing the idea of a new trailer and what size. I already found a dealer right in Boise, ID that sells BigTex trailers. I originally started out with a car trailer BigTex 60CH. But after talking it over with Kelly last night going over measurements and usage I flipped over to the 70TV. BigTex 70TV http://www.bigtextrailers.com/pdf/70tv.pdf BigTex 60CH http://www.bigtextrailers.com/pdf/60ch.pdf

On a Dodge pickup fuel tanks I would be scared to death to do a sump on a truck that is used offroad. First time I go over that rock, log or stump and hook it I will be walking home 40 miles out of the woods.I can see doing it for racing applications... But there is a reason why fuel tanks are pulled from the top.

As for me and grouse I do the stand on the wings and pull the legs routine. You end up with the breast meat attached to the wings and the feet and guts in your hand. Just throw them over the hill. Now pick up the breast and break of each wing and there you go. No feather plucking.

Very close to my weights. Front: 4440 Rear: 2860 Total: 7300

You should aim for 70% of return flow 100% of the time to aid in lubrication and cooling of the VP44. As for the shut down flow there was all this hype about creating a lift pump mod to cool the VP44 after running so the heat soak would kill the electronics. As you see in the video there is no flow and can't be done. As for using air flow it can't be done either because the electronics are mounted against the fuel side of the plate so the cover aluminum and the plastic case prevent air cooling from working. So fuel flow is key here. If you can keep 14-20 PSI that means instantly after starting the heat is remove from the electronics in a mere seconds. That why the second link with requirements... The 4 things that can kill a VP44... Maybe that's why my VP44 is heading for 200K miles and ZERO issues. (165K miles currently). Tank vent is located on the tank sender with a small plastic tube that comes out horizontally not vertical. (#6)