Mopar1973Man

No. The vent is there to vent off blow-by gases of the engine. I would do the basics right now double check your valve lash and do a compression test to see where your at. Sound like you already have the TSB modifed tappet cover. What's the odometer reading? Another question are you running a washable air filter like a K&N, S&B, AFe, etc?

Another reason I'm not fond of electric gauges. Way too often I see connection issues that hang up accurate reading and give false readings.

Then that pump motor is damaged or burnt up.

Try Eric over at Vulcan Performance... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/vendor-dealer-contacts

If its starting cold fine but hot poorly then I would check next time its heat soaked and pull the lift pump lead and then try again if it bust off easy then its a torn diaphragm. But if you got fuel leaks typically it would be poor starting in both conditions.

Take a peek... You can see now all thee things that are tied to the CCD network talking back and forth.

I hate to say it but all the electronics in the cab are ruined. As for the interior all the seats, carpeting,etc will all have to be remove and dried and/or replaced. As for the exterior I would drain all fluids and pull all the injectors to verify there is no water in the cylinders. All air plumbing will have to be pulled and cleaned. Big job no matter how you slice it.

My setup. Rock solid and never have to worry about corroded connections, shrink tube, di-electric grease, etc.

You might take a look at my signature. Without my injectors I was at 381/831 now I should be roughly around 400 HP. I've got enough power to break the tires loose in 2nd, 3rd, and even 4th gear (wet road). http://articles.mopar1973man.com/members-rides/17-mopar1973man/145-2002-dodge-ram-dyno-results

CCD Network failure. Sounds like a loose wire. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/34-engine-system/81-ccd-data-bus When the CCD network dies (NO BUS) the computers can't share information. So the PCM is asking the ECM is the engine OK? ECM replies yes coolant is good, not WOT, and no limp mode you can fire up the A/C. So in this one example I showed how some basic communications occur. Read the article and it will explain some basics.

wasn't sure... Just want to sure we were both on the same page...

In both cases both biodiesel and Ethanol fuels tend to be much lower in the BTU energy levels. The only reason they keep pushing this stuff is the fact the lower and lower the BTU level the more and more fuel you have to buy more fuel to travel farther. So little company like "Carb Defender" comes along selling a product to fix the fuel. Ok. So lets think about it. So you have something mixed in the fuel that you don't want and add another product to the fuel to alter it? It sure isn't removing it. Kind of like getting diesel fuel into the engine oil and buy a product to dry up the engine oil. What?! So in this case the alcohol is still in the fuel but adding another product to mask the issues. So now two companies profit the oil company for producing the ethanol and the "Carb Defender" for making the band-aid...

:think:How much HP/TQ are you planning on building?If you use the rule of thumb that for every 10 HP you need at least 1 PSI boost. So for 350 HP you could still run a stock HX35 turbo, stock head gasket, stock head bolts, any chip/enhancement box plus RV275 injectors with any head work at all. I'm right close to 400 HP now and tow quite a bit there the summer and still mostly stock on every thing but the injectors.So what your design?

Got my heavy duty starter contacts from LarryB for both thr 1996 Dodge 1500 and the 2002 Dodge 2500. Funny to see that the mighty Cummins and the little gasser have similar starters.

:think:I would say its just the rear speed sensor in the rear axle.

... or pull the IOD fuse out and not worry. There is a reason why Dodge designed the fuse with that funky clip so you can pull the fuse out and cut the power so not to drain the batteries. Batteries will naturally discharge over time still so you will need a trickle charger to maintain the charge state. Personally I like the RV converters because after 24 hour it will re-bulk the batteries back up full and reduce the charge rate again to 13.2V or so to keep the water lost down. But still in all all batteries will lose water if hooked to a battery charger so you'll have to check the batteries once a month.

Give ISX a PM nudge and he should have some answers to these pump numbers.

If you plug the crankcase vent at all you build up even pressure in the crankcase to blow out the main seals or a tappet cover gasket. This is why the crankcase vent is that a VENT to keep the pressure from building up.

LCACN (Mike) happens to be a member over from IdahoTurboDiesels.com... Welcome to the family as well Mike hopefully on of these days we'll cross paths down there in the Boise area. Just so other family members know there is a bit of mutual exchange between Idaho Turbo Diesels and Mopar1973Man since I help them maintain the site software, so in exchange I get to advertise Mopar1973Man.Com over there and IdahoTurboDiesels.com is welcomed to advertise events and dinner meets over here... So for all you Idaho people you might want to wander over to IdahoTurboDiesels.com and take a peek at what is happening in the great state of Idaho.Once again Welcome LCACN (Mike)...

Maybe... I've never exactly tried it.

As for rotating the pump around to get the keyway up you can just use the alternator nut. Ratchet handle will turn towards the coolant bottle. As for loosen/tighten the nut I've always just left it in gear and set the brake and never had a problem. I highly suggest you just torque the nut to proper torque and skip the loc-tite. As for bleeding the system is easy. Just loosen 1,3,4 and crank till either you see spray from the driver seat or you hear it bump a cylinder. Then tighten up then lines and start. I do all my work typically solo on my truck from bleed fuel system to bleeding brakes.

Another site I've got my hand in... www.smartresource.com www.smartresource.net Give these guys a crack really good information on the Smarty programmers. Note: the site was down with a MySQL server issue last time I checked it 07/07/2013 so it should be noticed by Monday morning and dealt with.

I've heard that too about floating a sync'ed trans. But also heard of several people floating gears and doing it for a very long time without problems. But I tend to agree with Mr Mindless that being Dodge installed the clutch and syncro's it best to shift using the clutch as designed. Like myself I've floated a few gears in my time in my truck but don't make a habit out of it.

How hard is that to load and unload? I've seen plenty of vintage slide in campers with jacks that fold up or the camper fell over. Matter of fact there was a camper left behind in the wood up here for that reason. It appears they try to unload it the jack failed and fell over in its side ruining the camper. I assume the owner couldn't get it up right again so he left it in the forest. Well never the less the snow came and crushed it so now it for sure ruined. This was some time ago but I never forgot it.

Electrical gauge tend to loose calibration and accuracy with age so after a 1-2 year and hook up a mechanical gauge you notice a 2-5 PSI difference possibly. Some have been better than other and some failed within months of installing. Dennhop is right a needle valve is required with ALL fuel pressure gauges be it mechanical, electrical or digital. Water hammer is still preduced by the injection pump (VE, P7100, VP44, CP3, etc) so you got to protect the gauge regardless from water hammer. So 2 things locate the gauge as far back from the injection pump but forward of the last filter and install and set a needle valve so it dampen the pulses.Thing is mechanical gauge will continue to work even when the rest of the truck doesn't. Where a electric gauge requires good ground for both sender and gauge to work properly then electricity to power the gauge and sender to show the fuel pressure.