Mopar1973Man

I was washing my engine yesterday and fired up the engine ans was able to stop the fan with water sprayed on the fan. I hardly doubt mine is loading the engine at all. I've also got a video of me stopping the fan with a old radiator hose too...

I return... I'm safe and sound.As for the fire you'll never believe the cause of the fire. It was cause from a local that was double towing his RV and boat down to Brownlee Res. Barely left town and jumped the boat trailer off the ball and drug the boat trailer down the highway for over 5 miles throwing sparks all over. Nevertheless we chased fire over both sides of the highway protecting homes and and property the best we can. No homes where harmed, lots of grass and brush burned though. We had USFS and Salmon River Rural Fire working the fire and spaced out over the 5 miles of highway working both sides. Today was one of those days I wished I would of taken my radio with me even though I left my fire district. If I would of had my radio I would of been more informed about what was going on. But I got home called Idaho County dispatch and found out some basic information and then grab my gear and radio and hauled for the fire in Mom's 1996 Dodge. Thankfully her truck had fuel where mine was near empty. Being I'm a station captain of Station #1 I've got new guy that I got caught up with and was teaching him the ropes of the truck in the field. So we fought fire, moped up, went to town and loaded with fuel, then loaded with nice clean city water for the truck. I sent him home with Engine 1 to clean the truck and put it back in the station. I stayed behind to monitor the fire up to 7:30pm and then managed to still hit my fire meeting in Riggins, ID learning about filling SCBA tanks and maintenance of them. I'm tired...

Just remember if the pump came in with a P1688, P1689, P0251, P0252, P0253 or P0254 more than likely got replaced. Like I said it's hard to run 3 hours of bench time with a already dead or dying PSG. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/169-p0251-vp44-pump-fuel-valve-feedback-circuit http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/170-p0252-fuel-valve-signal-missing http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/171-p0253-fuel-injection-pump-fuel-valve-open-circuit http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/179-p0254-vp44-fuel-valve-current-too-high http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/227-p1688-internal-fuel-injection-pump-failure http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/228-p1689-no-communication-between-ecm-and-vp44

VP44 electronics are replaced on most all pumps. It next to impossible to run 3 hours of bench time and manage to flash a dead or dying PSG module. So that hype of getting bad electronics isn't always true. Here is the VP44 test bench process. http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=V0Q8qQ2UKRI Here is the diagnostics on it. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/228-p1689-no-communication-between-ecm-and-vp44

Two very nice looking truck in the picture. Oh... You need to more pictures posted. I see what looks like a backhoe behind the truck. Then the nose of the RV trailer. Oh well need so pictures of you hauling stuff. :wink:Congrads on the Dodge though!

I do my caliper tuning myself. I simply remove the pistons and using 600 grit sandpaper I tune the piston to fit the bore without the seals in place. The piston should drop to the bottom of the bore without being push in. Remember this is without seals in place.

:think:The man you need to talk to is ISX my second in command here. He's my 12V guru on the site and should be able to shed some light on the subject.

Check this out... http://www.autoblog.com/2011/07/22/worlds-largest-diesel-engine-makes-109-000-horsepower/

A lot has change about the site since 2009. All the articles have been moved to... http://articles.mopar1973man.com

No. Not that I can't say it's not possible. I can't see the ABS module being a cause unless there is something broken valve wise inside.

I'll give you food for thought the last time I took my RV275 injectors out and installed my stock 235 HP injectors I didn't even bleed the low pressure side nor did I bother to crack a injector. I bumped the start a few cycles till a good fuel pressure number shown then crank on the engine maybe 10-15 seconds it fired right up. I must still have a strong VP44 to fire up that easy.

Here is his web page and contact info. http://jlweldingtx.com/

Remember the closer you are to the injection pump the stronger the water hammer pulses are and more damage you'll do to a pressure gauge.

Also that why there is that tiny hole in the overflow line is to help push the air out of the injection pump as well.

Very educational post! Thank you ISX!

You got it worse than we did. Got to about 70-75*F here then dropped to about 35*F and snowed ever so slightly just enough to dust the ground lightly and then disappear the next day. Those B2's look like UFO's kind of...

I'm going to do the same thing is install the new injectors and re-check the valve lash. Why not. The valve cover is already off... Injectors should be here today...

Yes. The big wrench hangs on the pulley bolts and the smaller wrench turns the fan clutch off the stem. Yes. It's a left hand thread so it turns to the driver side with the wrench handle.

No I can't. The exhaust brake is hanging me with a HX35W turbo permanently. So I'll never be upgrading turbos. Also I'm not after major HP/TQ. I'm after the MPG numbers. So at this point there is no need in upgrading to 75 HP or even larger. I got enough problems with 2nd and 3rd gear barking the tires now with or without the RV. That's on the old wore out RV275's. Call him up and ask about it. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/mopar1973mans-dealer-contacts/12-dealers--vendors/11-vulcan-performance

Get ahold of JL Welding (member here on the forum) he can make you a set of fan wrenches for your truck.

Sorry to hear the loss of a family member. It does sound like you've been busy. Don't worry we'll hold you a spot here on the forum.

Yeah that wasn't too bad being that the valve lash could be....Intake - 0.006 to 0.015Exhaust - 0.015 to 0.030Some of use run slightly tighter lash settings too. I'm running 0.008 and 0.018. This give a illusion of a slightly bigger cam profile.

Just be careful of your temperature while using vegetable based oils. As the temperature get colder the veggie based oils tend to settle to the bottom and thicken up.

Ok. so thinking deeper on this.Does it do it with a full tank of fuel?Is the fuel gauge functioning properly? Like mine would get down to about 1/2 tank and actually was near empty.My problem thinking out loud here is that you claim there is air flow from the filter can. I've got a hard time with that knowing that the pressure is dumped rather quickly form the fuel system once the engine is shut down so that means the pressure would have to be in the tank as well. But loosening the cap did fix it. :think:Anyone else want a stab at this one too?

Question...How did you get it out? I've never bother to try and pull the valve all the way out. So how did you remove it?