Mopar1973Man

Sure looks like a HW35W but missing the boost elbow. Here is my rebuilt HX35W.

Ok... I'll let the cat out of the bag... I graduated in 1988...

:duh:Gone out again for another vehicle accident. Once again a motorcycle rider was going way to fast and hit the side of the mountain with his motorcycle. Please people slow down there is absolutely nothing worse than ruining a vacation by speeding and getting into a serious accident. Then got to run for a vehicle fire at the other end of the district but was called off before I got half way.

Might have to change up the formula a bit to get a good pressure for the rear axle. Kind of like: Axle weight / Rear Axle Weight Limit x Tire Inflation Max Press. = Inflation Pressure 3500 / 7500 = 0.46 x 80 = 37.3 PSI 2860 / 7500 = 0.38 x 80 = 30.5 PSI So changing to that formula your basing tire pressure on a percentage of axle load. Increases the empty weight numbers.

Thank you for the part name and number...

I can break the tires loose in 2nd or 3rd gear on dry pavement. On wet pavement I can break loose in 4th gear as well. HX35W turbo is a good turbo as long as you tune around it.

Some people mount a extra tank in the bed of the truck haul a extra 100-200 gallon of water that way.Like on my RV I've got 50 gallons of water. I typically will fill two extra 5 gallon water container and place them forward up up in the bedroom as extra ballast but spare drinking water. I've gone 3-4 days on 50 gallons of water.

No. You got some errors. There should be a different weight rating on the tire for DUAL's vs. SINGLE's. They are never the same typically DUAL's are rated lower in weight. Second off you don't use door sticker numbers you use actual scaled axle weights. Like I know you rear axle right now is not weighing 7,500 pounds with a empty bed. Heck my entire truck doesn't weight much more than 7,300 pounds empty. (4440 + 2860 = 7300) My current axle weights front (4,440#) and rear (2,860#). My 235/85 R16 HiFly's rated for... 3042 SINGLE's @ 80 PSI 2778 DUAL's @ 80 PSI So using my actual scale weights and tire specs... FRONT: 4440/2 = 2220/3042 =0.72 x 80 = 58.3 REAR Single: 2860/2 =1430/3042 = 0.47 x 80 = 37.6 Here is where I get hung up. I need actually scale weights and then figure them both by 2 or by 4 and see what pans out correct also calculate maximum axle weight vs. normal Load Range E's. REAR Dual: 2860/4 = 715/2778 = 0.25 x 80 = 20.5 ??? (Awful low) REAR Dual: 2860/2 = 1430/2778 =0.51 x 80 = 41.1 Remember the door jamb is the MAXIMUM axle weight designed for the truck. REAR Max: 7500 / 2 = 3500 pounds This would create a figure above 100% (1.25 x 80 = 100.7 PSI ???) REAR Max: 7500 / 4 = 1875 pounds. This would fit but seem awfully low in pressure even at max load. (0.67 x 80 = 53.9 PSI ???) Seriously... I think is divide by 2 on both numbers but you got to use actual scale weight not the door tag.

Seriously that's what I call boondocking for sure. I love that kind of camping. Dragging the RV out to a remote area, setting up, and staying for a few days to enjoy the beauty around you. I'm getting itchy for a good boondocking trip. Most of my RV trip are down to Emmett, ID for shopping reasons but it time to head north with the RV next. Where to and when I don't know...Heck I might show up on Hex0rz doorstep for dinner one evening who knows...

Sweet...

Feel the love...

Also another fly by wire system here. I've heard that the Automatic transmission truck happen to have vacuum servo system because of the kickdown cable still need to be pulled. But the manual transmission trucks are all fly by wire I think starting in 2000.

Here is the dealer web page... http://www.bigotires.com/Tire-Detail/HIFLY/VIGOROUS-AT-601/23448 I got the 235/85 R16's...

Now just compile a version for us Linux people now too. I really don't want to have to boot up Windows.

Same math. Just use the dual weight instead of single weight. You'll notice dual weight is typically lower and so the pressure should slightly higher. (axle Weight / 2) / Dual Tire Weight Limit x Dual inflation Max Pressure = Inflation pressure.

That's going to be either a carb. or fuel injected. If its fuel injected I would put a fuel pressure gauge on the rail and see if the fuel pressure is coming up right away or lagging. Pump sucking air? Filter pugged up?

That because of a few different things happening. 1. Yes. The exhaust housing is bigger the bigger the housing the the slower the spool up. 2. You've went beyond the the turbos ability. When you start getting drive pressure above the boost pressure you over the choke point of the turbo you need to turn down the boost elbow to limit the wastegate at 35 PSI.Now Remember I've got.* Stock 3" Exhaust Straight piped* Stock HX35W turbo* +50HP injectors* Edge Comp Tapped and set to 5x3Absolutely no problems towing my 31' Jayco trailer at all. Very controllable for EGT's and climb a 6-7% grade in 5th gear @ 60 MPH for 70-80% of the grade wasn't till I hit 1,200*F I back out and grabbed 4Th and still held 55-57 MPH the rest of the way.

It might misfire and be poor spray pattern being the high pressure is leaking out into the return rail. The only way to fix is to re-do it the other way and it should cure any issues. You might notice hard starting and might not.

Kind of like...

Just for fun... Here is the Hifly's I bought...My multi-tool is 9 inches wide to show tread width. Currently inflated a bit over because of firewood hauling but...After I'm done hauling firewood this what I'll inflate too.Front axle Tire Pressure4440 / 2 = 2220 / 3042 = 0.72 x 80 = 58.3 PSI (60 PSI)Rear Axle Tire Pressure2860 / 2 = 1430 / 3042 = 0.47 x 80 = 37.6 PSI (40 PSI)

4 Reasons for this brand of toilet paper.1. 1000 sheet per roll the most paper you can buy for a good price.2. Works in my Frantz Oil Filter3. Works with the septic system on the property just fine.4. Work with the RV without any issues at all. No clogging.

I know the feeling. I crushed a rather good sized dent in a jeep 2 years ago and the Dodge took it like a champ no damage other than a sample of paint on my bumper.Well at least both the RV and the truck are OK and the other driver isn't injured.

Yeah you did them backwards... [*]Push injector into hole with copper shim. [*]Push connector tube into head and seat into injector. [*]Tighten the injection line to spec. [*]Place the injector cap on and tighten the 8mm bolt to 89 inch/pounds. You need to ensure that the crossover tubes are tighten first before tighting the injector caps. What happens is you pin the injectors in the head and the crossover tubes will not seat properly. So now you have a high pressure leak into the fuel return rail. So the way to fix this is to re-do all the injectors lift them up a bit then start over to seat everything correctly. The only way to leak fuel into the oil is to have a bad injector that is stuck open or to have a bad O-ring on the injector. The crossover tube O-ring keeps the return rail from bleeding out onto the intake manifold.

No. You'll have to remove the radiator to clean it up. Even I've got to pull my radiator every few years to clean the baked in mud out of the bottom of the radiator from all the off road usage. There is no way for me to clean mud out let alone you de-greasing both faces (front and rear) and getting the grease out.

... and I'm the one that gets teased about driving 55-60 MPH every where. Like today I've got to head to McCall, ID for groceries. Distance: 35 miles one way. Notes Time Formula: Distance in Miles / Speed in MPH = Time in Hours x 60 = Time in Minutes 55 MPH = 0.63 hours x 60 = 37.8 minutes 65 MPH = 0.53 hours x 60 = 31.8 minutes Difference of: 6 minutes So for difference of 6 minutes I'm willing to slow down on the highway save fuel and protect my family life. There is absolutely nothing to worth driving faster for.