Mopar1973Man

Name rings a bell... CRS... Ah what the hell your welcome to hang around I know the rest of the gang here will keep you in line...

Be careful what you wish for I'm going to be showing up on your porch sometime this summer.

Ohhh... Man... I would like to be driving a 2000 or newer truck but all we got here is 1960 to 1994 if that... Mostly have older 2 1/2 ton military fire trucks and water tenders. A few structure engines and a few brush trucks. Thinking of that I've got a 1985 International truck body with a Detroit V6 Diesel that has the air compressor on the back I need to find out about the regulator on that beast I'm pretty sure its just running away and over loading the tanks (120-130 PSI) and constant sneezing. Then the same truck has a rear axle oil seal gone. (Standard fix). If you got any information on that compressor I would love to have it.

Feel the love...

Gambling guess would be within the PDC (Power distribution center) under the hood.

Better stick around I'll ask you plenty of questions about fire trucks being I'm a Station Captain for Salmon River Rural Fire Dept. Got 6 fire stations and plenty of fire trucks to work on. But glad to meet ya Mick hopefully you stick around with the family here.

I was think man it's going to suck mowing all that lawn. Riding around on a lawn tractor side hill trying to mow all that. Ugh.

Key thing here is the good quality clean injector. There are a few injectors out there that are rather smoky and dirty.

Right on the money. I was going to mention the fact of the oil that is sprayed in the bottom of the piston keeps the cylinder walls wet with oil and the piston doesn't wipe it completely dry. So the fine dust is collected on the cylinder walls as well as blown passed the rings in the compression / ignition stroke. This is one of the few reasons I typically suggest against a washable media filter. Washable media filter are good right out of the box and are going to filter just fine. But after 10-20 washings of the media how good is it now? How much higher is the micron rating of the filter? I have NEVER seen a washable media air filter retested after 100, 200, 500, 1000 washings and show ratings again. I can bet money that most washable media start losing filter effectiveness after 10-20 or so washings but the truck owner has no clue because he can't test the filter at home.

Parked in a Handicapped space?Hmmm... I would personally do something like this to a standard cab and use it like a sleeper. Now you got bad -arse setup where the truck isn't super long and weak in the middle. Then its also ready for the long haul.

Eaxmple...

I use to be that way... But after 3 years now of really seeing the site grow and see the common folk here like Russ, ISX, Rogan, Diesel4life, War Eagle, stodge73, dripley, etc. I know these guys without a doubt would do exactly what they say they going to do. I got guys that send me tools to barrow to do jobs, or send parts, etc. I've never been let down on any of it. I've got pretty good faith in the older family pool here. Now as for someone that just joined in the last few month and has zero posts I would be a bit leary..

I was replying to Texas CTD idea of continuing up the the scale of injectors.

This is a absolute nono should never install a pressure gauge or a pressure sensors at the VP44. Water hammer pulse are the strongest at the VP44 since its the device that creates the water hamme pulses. All gauge hook up should be done back by the stock filter can if you want a gauge to last.

Agreed...

Take it out for a test drive. Get it hot. Now check the upper and lower hose temperatures. The lower hose should be cool to the touch if the radiator is doing its job. If not the hose will be warm or hot to the touch as well.Old california test I use to do is take a garden hose at full flow into the upper hose neck and the core tube should be capable of flowing all the flow of a garden hose without overflowing out the top or backing up out the upper neck.

Ok... I gave Deborah another call she has been busy. She hasn't forgotten us so be patient and she'll be here soon to explain her offer.

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My bad... :doh:I've got a old ScanGauge II my software doesn't even report the MAP correctly. But from what Pepsi1971Ocean told me there is a a boost gauge founction that does report true boost numbers in PSI not PSIa. But the MAP would be PSIa and ~14.x PSIa is about right for 0 PSI.

Up here the price of 2 cycle oil is expensive. For what I pay for a quart of Stihl oil I can buy a full gallon of WalMart Supertech. Typically what I do is buy a gallon for the truck and a gallon for the chainsaws and weed wackers.

It not a TV show but simply reality of life. Well like this morning I'm still dragging tail not moving fast at all. I know my chour list is high already and I'm not wanting to jump too fast. Heck I don't even have TV. I've been without TV now for nearly 9 years.

Yes. It's correct. This layout will CUT the power to the lift pump during cranking. This prevents the hypersevsitivity to cranking pressure after a torn diaphragm occurs in the VP44.

Comes back the weight versus what the tire is capable of holding. My rear axle weight is 2,860 pounds so I don't need 80 PSI or even 60 PSI for empty truck typically aired up to about 38-42 PSI on the rear axle. But since wood hauling season is on I left my tires aired up for now. What a rough ride... Ugh...

Here is more on the TCW3 standard... http://www.nmma.org/certification/certification/oil/tc-w3.aspx

Usually caused by something binding up like slide pins or the pistons in the caliper. I would suggest that you pull the caliper and check the piston fit by removing the boot and the seals then dropping the piston in the empty holes. It should fall to the bottom without being pushed in. I typically tune the pistons with fine sandpaper till the do fit properly. During all this work make sure the caliper is clean and the brake fluid is purged from the system and start over fresh.