Mopar1973Man

Some how you getting compression gases from the cylinder into the fuel system. The only 2 I know of is a copper shim on the injector is damaged or the head is crack allowing compression gases to leak into the fuel return rail. The other though is maybe this is all backwards. What if this is a vacuum you hearing? If the tank vent is plugged and the lift pump is pumping till the tank is pulled into a vacuum and quits. Then you open the filter drain release the vacuum and good to go. How about loosening the fuel cap and and see if the problem goes away?

If so he's possibly got... [*]Injector copper shim damaged [*]Cracked head Compression test on a hot engine possibly show it. Also checking if there is pressure in the fuel tank.

What fuel system are you running?Any drawstraws or similar? Something doesn't sound right though. Typically fuel system doesn't hold any pressure even long enough to get out of the truck and open the drain of the filter.Is this problem fairly consistent?

You should add enough to keep it from cycling. Even Sanden Compressor specs say it shouldn't cycle more than 3 time a minute other than that clutch damage can occur. Also too low on the low side during compressor operation will cause freeze up problems. A normal house refrigerator will have a low side of 2-5 PSI to get cold enough for the freezer. So over charging causes it to be warmer.Disregard the lines I goofed... But take notice to the temp on the inside ring for R134a you want the needle close to 35-40*F. 30 PSI is 28*F and will cause freezing hence why the compressor shuts down.

Compressor shouldn't cycle. It should remain locked up and solid. So the low side pressure is falling below 30 PSI and kicking out right? So that means you need more freon. Table included so you can get enough freon loaded up. I typically try for about 40 PSI on the low side. The only time the compressor should kick out is of the high side gets to hot and the pressure is well over 400 PSI or if the low side gets to cold and the pressure is below 30 PSI.

I try to get the cheapest things for brake pads in hopes to get the least amount metallic material in the pads. This will of course have weaker braking power vs. a high dollar pads but the lack of metallic material keeps from eating the rotors down to paper thin in a few years.I don't know what it is about me but I've only done one set of brakes on my truck since I bought it brand new. 2002 with 213K miles. The Mopar Mom's 96 with 149K miles I never done brakes on it yet and keep inspecting them though. This is a gasser truck and auto to boot. don't ask me but I normal drive in such a fashion that I don't need brakes very much. Even in Mom's gasser I use the trans to slow down with and use the brakes more so to stop me and hold placement that to slow from high speeds.

Isolator I would suggest you skip on. Most people end up removing it because it skews the reading of the gauge. A lot of times the isolator loses its antifreeze and the gauge drops out and the owner goes to panic mode not knowing if the lift pump actual died or the isolator died. Most times is the isolator but it will require removal and retesting. I've been direct plumbed for nearly 10 years and never had fuel leak in the cab. When your running air brake line with 600-800 burst strength I doubt a 10-20 PSI lift pump is going to cause it to leak not to mention its the very same stuff use for big rigs.Q: Why is it that people will direct plumb a oil pressure gauge from the engine with cheap nylon but go into panic mode when it comes to direct plumbing diesel fuel? :think:As with all plumbing connection I NEVER use any tapes or sealants. Automotive brass is self sealing and if done right it will not require any tape or pipe sealant. As with all my plumbing there is no Teflon tape or pipe sealant used anywhere. At least for me I don't have to worry about a small bit of tape or something flow to the injection pump and plugging it up.

Welcome to the family.As for the lights it seem there is more there. You might have to visually have to look it over to get a clue. Most of what you talking about is sent over the CCD network to the cluster for display. So I would start by checking grounds and wiring for damage.

I've never really worried about the air in the fuel too much. After a few WOT runs the air is long gone.

Just realize that over head console is going to be worthless. The only thing that will work is the compass and the temp. A GPS has better ablity of displaying direction and location.The trip computer will be junk. I will report some goofy high 25-40 MPG with that Edge Juice in the truck and no its not possible to calibrate the overhead console.

Q: Why is is people like myself can have very stable cooling systems over the life of the truck? 193-195*F of coolant temp regardless of weather or outside temperature or 195-197*F while towing. At a idle it will drop to 188*F and hang (full close). No cycling up and down just a steady temp.

Genuine bosch. Somewhere in the archives is my thread when I got my RV's just can't find it.

No other changes just sound nasty idling. Random off beat miss that will disappear if you turn on the A/C, put a load on the power steering or have a heavy foot on the brake pedal. MPG's are good and smoke is near nothing with my current tune. Remember guys these injectors are hand me downs with over 400K miles on them. CajFlynn gave them to me when he upgraded from RV275's to a larger injector.

The new pipe is 3" OD and had it cut to 64" long. Then went down the street to the muffler shop and had a guy expand the ends to accept 3" OD inside. Slip it in and clamp it down tight. Then welded on a few bits of re-bar for hangers. Like I said it was cheap at $23 bucks.

I don't have deep pockets. :broke:But here is my $23 dollar fix with a piece of 3 inch pipe at 64 inches long. I was so cheap because I ran out of MIG wire I brazed my hangers to the pipe.

There is another factor most miss. How about the accuracy of the pyrometer gauge itself. Also the location of the probe either post turbo, pre-turbo 1-3, or preturbo 4-6... all play a role in the EGT's and measurements.

Well I yanked my RV275's back out. They started to misfire at idle again. Looking them over and the nozzle where only lightly sooty and the nozzle holes were very visible even to the naked eye. So I already talked to a shop in Lewiston, Idaho about retuning hem back to pop pressure. Like I told him I found injector with a wore shim and I'm pretty sure this injector is my problem. So I'll report back what I find out when I get them bench tested.

Well as I was crawling under the truck I noticed the straight pipe was looking rather rotten and full of small holes. So I now replaced it with a fresh piece of pipe and no longer have to worry about that. What was amazing is the clamp came off good and was totally re-usable. I didn't break them or gall up the threads. I chased he threads with a nut and anti-seized them again and back on the pipe they went. 11 year old clamps and still going.

Exactly why I move the switch to the stick so I could control the exhaust brake and not have to listen to the hissing noise excessively. But was able to arm and disarm the exhaust brake any time I wished. Flick of the thumb.

I don't even bother anymore. I just monitor the ScanGauge for unusual values from the sensors. Since I fool my IAT through the winter months and MAP sensor doesn't seem affected by the sooty oil. As at cold start up I typically have the IAT sensor on so I just verify the temp against the coolant number if they match sensors are good.

I've been known to touch 1,400*F but rarely and only for 10 seconds or less.My typical limit is 1,200*F and if so then I gear down 1 gear and kick the RPM's back up to 2K and hold and watch the EGT's. Most grades I can pull in 4th gear and hover about 1,000 to 1,100*F in EGT's.

You know if they showed that same video back for the 2nd Gen's it would of been assembled in about half the time...

I would just flush the the system completely with water for several minutes and then reload with what ever coolant you want.

Collapsed lifter?What's the oil pressure like?

I use mine 90-95% of the time. I moved the switch to my stick and control it with my right thumb. I can use mine all the way down to 0 MPH. Here is a few videos of how I use it.