Mopar1973Man

Cord bad and the heater is good... :wink:So I would put a small dab of dielectric grease in the socket of the heater to prevent future problems. I'm pretty sure Geno's Garage has the cords for fairly cheap.

Might throw on a live data tool and watch the TPS signal for sudden changes that drop lower than normal. Some how the APPS signal lead is dropping to low in voltage.

Time to kidnap ISX and have him fix your truck... Like I know this winter been rough on my truck and been varying between 14-19 MPG. Depends if I'm bucking head winds, driving with a heavy foot, or short trips that don't ever warm up completely. This winter I've been staying at home more than previous winters.

Dang Automatics... I know some day that will bite me with the 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 but thankful my 2002 is a manual. Less to go wrong... I'm surprised no one has ever re-designed the auto's cooler lines to keep them from blowing out or breaking.

First off I never would suggest adding any grounds or modifying the electrical system at all. I highly suggest you return all electrical back to stock configuration because there is no need for modifications. As for the error codes. (ECM Problems) http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/216-p1475-auxiliary-5-volt-output-too-high (Might be other issues between the APPS and ECM) http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/151-p0122-apps-sensor-signal-voltage-too-low

Also double check the ECM is power up the trigger leads t othe Airdog relay because all the testing of the pump and pump wire won't do much good if the ECm isn't throwing a 12V signal. also the G107 ground is behind the starter and yes you'll be required to remove the starter to access the bolt.

Really common for the cords to get damaged. Remove the cord and ohm from end to end as well looking for opens. Not often does a element fail...

DDRP... That's the problem... You still using the stock plumbing.

Hmmm... As for the bulb sockets I would use a dab of dielectric grease and fresh bulbs and see what happens. But even in my truck the stock backup light are nearly worthless. You all know I added a pair of 100w floods to my rear axle.

Sad to say we've already been around this track in the 70's. Remember the days of muscle cars and then Mister EPA stepped in and added EGR valves and catalytic converters to the cars? Then people were chopping then off and doing illegal tunes back then. Companies were sell converter delete kits back then. Same thing got shut down as well. So its no surprise. As for what to do. If you tune and everything is working good I would stop updating and leave well enough alone. Till something else hits the forums or another solution that pops up.

Where clutch damage comes from is high HP/TQ and absolutely WOT running in high gear. Side stepping the clutch is not helpful either. I ran for a long time with +120 HP tune from a Edge Comp till it snapped the hub out of my clutch. So then upgraded to a Southbend Con OFE and not looked back at all. But of course this is all old school (2002 Dodge Ram)

That's odd... If its got a distributor there should be a HALL effect sensor in the distributor. I'm pretty sure it's going be like my 96 Dodge which uses the distributor sensor for fuel timing. I thing the crank sensor controls the ignition fire. Verify the crank sensor is setup right and the air gap is correct. All look for damaged tone rings.

Welcome to the Family Drag Racer.

I would get that alternator changed soon... Nothing in the vehicle is designed for 30 Volts AC or even 30 volts DC... You asking to do damage to the electronics of the truck. The only thing that keeping in some check is the batteries. But I highly suggest you get that replaced ASAP!

Don't leave us guessin' tell us...

He got it...

I've been talking to Irish Power Mad over on Cummins Forum and looking at the tractors and AG equipment for lift pumps. Why is it that they have no problems with lift pumps? So maybe there is another way around this mess.

Mine never failed yet 208K miles...

Most electric gauges tend to fail at the senders. So about every 2 or so year you replacing senders on electric gauges. As for mechanical they are very safe and typically very accurate. So if it was dropping to zero you truly had a lift pump issues or air issue. As for my DiPricol gauge its over 7 years old and still going strong. No leaks either.

As far as KDP history I know of its rare to see the KDP in the 2001 and I've only seen one confirmed report of a 2002 with KDP. Owner posted pictures over at CF.com.

Geez get around to helping people and dang they are smart enough to fix it themselves... Most of taught you a few tricks...

I'm looking for a VP44 for exactly that reason I want a huge photo opt of the VP44 guts.

:whistle:There only a handful of places that have the 815 test bench. Why the price is so high on the VP44...

Quick question do they actually have the Bosch 815 test bench on site?

Human's get breakfast at about 9-10 MST and the animals typically get breakfast at sunrise.