Mopar1973Man

Didn't on my 1996 Dodge Ram 1500. I drilled a hole in the bottom and beat the cat stuffing out of it. Then welded the hole shut again. Since there is no smog inspection up here I'm not worried. Also no lights or codes on a gasser engine. As for the diesel I would remove it take a rod to it break it out and re-install the empty can. They can inspect all they want it will still be there but guttless...

Those things should be replaceable maybe at a part store...

Might for Caj's weight class of towing... But even my straight 3" has been a really good exhaust system and no EGT's problems for about 16,000 to 17,000 Gross combined. But once again its a bit loud getting into the pedal. Wow... Geez I hope if fixes my bum left knee I dislocated years ago. Boy it would take a aweful lot to make a redneck like me attractive.

Like myself I've been locking down the homestead more and doing simple things to protect my property. barring the windows, locking both houses up at night, shutting the gate and keeping it shut, then locking it when we leave. The gate. That's been a nice thing. So far what it does is give me time to notice someone coming. The dog goes nuts barking at whom ever is out there. At that point I can open the door and let the dog go. If you don't belong you might not want to face the dog. If you do belong the dog will great you at the gate. Then as for the truck I'm going to be securing the truck down with hidden kill switches and hose clamping the tail gates. Typically when we travel the dog is with us so I seriously doubt anyone want to mess with a smiling Dobbie in the front seat of the truck.I've gotten in the habit now of packing my 9mm pistol as well. I rarely leave the property without it now. Even quick things like run to town for fuel I still pack it. Also with local travel in the Idaho County I carry my fire radio with me. Like some of you mention about bad element. I've dealt with in a different way. There is a old saying "Keep your friends close and your enemies even closer". Let's say I've got a good communication with the local seedy elements around here and they know who I am and what I do. They also know don't mess with my family, property, or me. Since they know I've got ties with the county sheriff and the local fire dept they know its a losing battle to try something here.Now like travelling to big cities to pick up supplies. Well that is another story in its own. I'm typically in another mode completely. MoprMom knows it. I tend to act like that deer than just heard that twig snap. Then in stores or even parking lots I tend to be scoping out the place looking around me and paying attention to people. Some people you get good vib's from and say, "Hello" as you pass and other that give off that red flag tend to make you dip the brim of your hat a bit to cover your eyes as you watch this person off the edge of the brim.What is so great is coming back how to absolutely nothing but the woods. I'm completely happy be out in the woods. I can handle just about anything out there but throw me in the bigger cities I'm just a wee bit on guard these days...

Typically I hear mine lock up by 205-210*F. Once it locks it will pull the temp down to about 203*F then unlock.

Ummm... That's the problem. The site is PHP script not a HTML page. So being its PHP you typically bound to the PHP controls given in the software. So I'm willing to redesign the navbar a bit I'm just not sure what to put where? There is all the nice functions like the photo album, groups, links back to the articles, etc. I'm sitting here pulling my hair out turning to figure out what other would use and how to lay it out. I've just got done watching UI/UX videos (UI=User Interface and UX=User Experience). I know I can improve in this but I'm going to need feedback from everyone. So what I need is everyone to surf around the site and tell me what links are typically used on the bar. I want to drop the unused junk and but in the same token try to bring all main functions forward for members to use. Now you know why I'm pulling my hair.

Try logging out. Then clearing all cookies and cache and then logging back in. Then try it. ISX is right on the money. Since the family members keep the site going with donations and effort...

Just tell the part counter you want a 2009 6.7L thermostat...

That pretty cool looking. What switch do you have there?Not to but how is the pana-pacific gauge holding up?

200*F thermostat is from 6.7L 2008-current Cummins.

Geez... Another failed thermostat this is so common. If I can't maintain 191-193*F coolant temp on -25*F day without winter fronts I change thermostat's. I never use the winter fronts to compensate for a failed thermostat but to keep more heat under the hood for the engine.

Few things you can't mix MPG and racing to together that's a apple to orange comparison. As for cold air intake your turbo discharge is still going to be high. http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=nf7ladNL7V8 Once again comparing gasoline naturally aspirated vs. diesel turbo charged that's another apple to orange comparison. VP44 advances the colder the air. VP44 advances with low to zero boost. VP44 retards with hotter air. VP44 retards with high boost. Which also follows the Autoignition Temperature... (My theory) Basically if the intake air is a bit warmer than typical then the diesel fuel is injected and can convert to vapor faster and ignite faster than colder air giving the illusion of advanced timing. Being that cold air below 100*F IAT temp will reduce MPG for every 10*F below 100*F I typically lose about 1 MPG. So at 80*F IAT I typically lose -2 MPG's. With the dead of winter with 20*F IAT temps I was down to 14 MPG's. Cold air is NOT MPG friendly with diesels. Also keep another though going. Why did Cummins add a grid heater to heat the air if the temperature was below +60*F IAT? Maybe it was inefficient at low IAT temps? I know the coolant jacket is also... Just food for though... Why does the MPG fooler work as explained from Quadzilla tech's.

Kind of a simple saying I heard years ago."Horsepower is how fast you can get to the wall""Torque is how far you can push/pull the wall"I've always considered HP/TQ a hand in hand measure measure. But with our truck (working trucks) the torque is more important than horsepower is really. The torque is what get the loads moving...(Not a science nerd in this topics)

I'm trying to rebuild the Navbar a bit and get the links under links but that didn't work so ISX requested back the Article tab so (POP) its back. There is functions on the site that seem to be hidden to deep and never found hence why I was trying to redo the navbar to bring these features out more. But maybe I need to hear what you guys and gals have to say... :banghead:

I say between the two of you Rogan and ISX you two need to build a article of this...

Might have the wife pick up the pedal to verify. Supposedly you can't readjust the switch after installing some say there is a way. But for the age of the switch I'd replace it.

Pepsi is up in the frozen north like myself and what is occuring is the extra 10*F is aiding in heat the intake a bit more because he's showing a roughly +60*F offset on IAT roughly now between the winter front and the 200*F thermostat. Which tends to follow the same rules of effect with the MPG fooler as well. Except he's using actual IAT temps and no fooler. Also he's crossing the 100*F IAT mark which is the starting edge of MPG climb typicallly all the way to 140*F roughly.Which still means that cold air is not a friend of MPG's...

I've seen oon 12V's where the same 1/2" pipe plug there are 2 of them under the manifold which are also coolan passages. Where on the 24V head they are not present except the one in the rear. But yes I've check the 1/2" plug on mine and yes its coolant passage with in about 2" of the IAT sensor.

There is a way to decode the DOT stamp and see when the tire was produced. [TABLE] [TR] [TD]n the example above: DOT U2LL LMLR 5107[/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD] 51[/TD] [TD]Manufactured during the 51st week of the year[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]07[/TD] [TD]Manufactured during 2007[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE]

My +40*F offset is measured at 0-5 PSI of boost. Right now its a +50*F offset because my winter fronts are still in. (30-35*F outside temp = 80-85*F IAT)

Brake light switch is failing. Time to replace the brake light switch.

Wire tap isn't working... There should be 12V on your grey lead in the cab then... Should ALWAYS have 12V with the key ON and probe either the grey wire in the cab or the tap point of the VP44. But in the end there should be 12V on the grey wire. If its showing 0 volts then your NOT wire tapped. So basically you got a Edge EZ with that Edge Comp and no extra fueling.

(No comment...)

As far as what I know all passenger vehicles including one tons truck have to have OBDII service port after 1996 for smog reasons. All 1996 to current Dodge truck including one tons have the port and do report P-codes. Yes. ScanGauge II will work on 1998.5 to 2002 without a issue. There is a compatibility list over on ScanGauge II site (www.scangauge.com)

I would double check all wiring that any modification might of tapped into. Sounds like there is a network bus issues too. I know its not displaying the NO BUS message but the fact there is a lack of ability to dump error codes. You might double check all dash grounds as well as engine grounds.