Mopar1973Man

Hopefully you get gauges soon... I would base my gearing on the amount or boost / EGT's I'm creating and back off a gear and slow down. Just because the truck can pull the grade in said gear doesn't mean its good for it. Like I can pull 7% grades in 5th gear but I know my pyrometer temps would exceed 1,200*F really easy even stock. Don't ask how I know this...

Kind of like my setup too I wanted to keep the amount of cables and cords to a minimum by hidding them with the VHS player in its cubby. But right now I got the TV stored in the dining bench. So everytime I walk in I see that darn cable laying there... Oh well... Still it would be much nicer to just have a flat screen mounted to the wall...

No in tank lift pump and no stock APPS/TPS...I would install a good lift pump like Airdog, Raptor or a FASS. these cost a bit more but all the weakness of fuel system is gone and the lift pump has lifetime warranty.As for the APPS sensor the stock ones are known to fail too. But when you can save about $300 buck on a Timbo's APPS. I would rather you use what you just save for a good set of gauges... (Fuel pressure, Boost, Pyrometer)Welcome to the family... Oh yeah I to also pull trailers (31' Jayco Eagle)...

Ouch... I'm going to have to assume the lift pump is dead and so is the VP44. Being that the truck is not starting or running I would would consider getting a lift pump first. While your at it get a fuel pressure gauge and install it. Maybe the injection pump might come back to life with a good strong lift pump. But I kind of doubt it. For good VP44 life span the fuel pressure should never drop below 14 PSI at WOT on the highway. So if the lift pump is making grinding noises and the filter housing is not filling up I'm going to have to say the lift pump is dead. But now you said you cracked the lines on the VP44 and tried priming it. Now did the fuel just leak out or was it FORCED out with pressure? You have to remember the VP44 has to create at least 4,500 PSI to first the injectors. so if it just dribbling out its not pumping at all. But if its squirting out and hitting the hood the pump is functional. This also depends on how loose the line is. I normal loose then reseat the nut with my fingers before I start cranking this will typically allow the VP44 build enough pressure to fire all six injectors but squirt fuel up so you can see it. There isn't enough prove to absolutely pont the finger at both yet condemning them as dead...

Wow... It must be a 3rd Gen issue or something... :shrug:I've got two 2nd Gen's sitting here in the yard... 96 Dodge is still running all factory front end parts at 147K miles and the 02 Dodge just got the track bar and ball joints done at 185K miles.As for parts I just ordered the cheapest ball joints for mine and stuff them in. I figure if Dodge is getting the cheapest joints and stuffing them in and I'm getting 185K out of them it can't be too bad...But come to think about it... Is there any oversized tires or different rims on the truck that might change geometry of the front end to cause it to fail early?

Yeah it sounds like someone replaced the orginal rubber hose with a clear vinyl tubing... But yes its a crankcase vent...

Stodg is correct...

Might wander over to RockAuto.Com and check with them on parts... www.rockauto.com

My Bad... :banghead: I wasn't paying attention I just got done with a ISS Pro thread on ITD... But Dipricol are gone your right... So ummm...

I'm cheating it with 80w-90 for now... But I keep a close eye on the fluid level and color and dump when it darken...

Welcome to the family! You might want to hook up with Relentless70 on the first gens... As for the 2002 I can help you out along with the other members of the family here...

I would pull and inspect the probe to see if it burnt or damaged. I know there isn't much you can do to test the probe or signal amp so it might be a part replacement thing... I would call ISS Pro and ask there tech's on the issue and see if they turn up something...

Not bad on the price of the AirDog being I paid $520 for mine brand new. Remember you will not get a warranty with that AirDog being its sold 2nd hand.As for diff fluid I would just use 80w-90 gear lube with fricition modifier added. But if you plan on pulling alot and heavy I would consider 85w-140 instead. Like myself once this supply of 80w-90 goes I'll move up to 85w-140..

No overhead...

Welcome to the family... That phrase I bolded when you convert to miles that roughly 272,000 miles... That's actually very low miles for these trucks when your looking at a lifespan of 1 MILLION miles (1,609,344 kms). One of the family members here is past already and several other are well above 500K miles. Overhead computer is not very accurate at really... You'd have better luck with a ScanGauge II than the overhead... Aso for economy there is lots of thing you can do for economy... Like my truck I'm getting 21-22 MPG hand calc'ed or ScanGauge II But my highest is 25.3 MPG...

Well I took a trip down to Ontario, OR to put fresh rubber on the 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 for the first time in 10 years. I desided to take the ScanGauge II for the trip and see if all my tinkering actually helped. I'm proud to report for traveling from New Meadows, ID to Ontario, OR I barely made 17.0 MPG... On normal old 87 octane gasoline. Threw a set of fresh 235/85 R16 to the truck and headed for home with a full load of fuel and groceries... But here is the twist it started raining just as we left Ontario, OR temp fell to about 40-45*F and flooded the highway fairly well. Still pulled 15.3 MPG rolling in the yard. I'm a happy 96 dodge Ram 1500 owner...

Same here the ScanGauge II differs from my cluster speedometer and odometer...

I run up and down washboarded dirt roads with full loads of firewood and got 185K from my first set... My truck gets worked hard offroad and it comes with potholes, washboards, ruts, etc... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KPpyH5Hqi1o http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3025YkVz7gU http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lXob64FYo5I http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oXInW5VnOF8

Actually its not a switched lead... As I found out the hard way too that is a constant hot lead. You can add a isolator to that (which I should too). Because if I hitch up my travel trailer and leave the trailer plugged into the truck it will bleed the truck batteries dead too. :duh:What I did is hitch up in a cold day and left the trailer plugged in and flipped on the furance. The furance blower was drawing down all 4 batteries... Truck was a bit weak to start... :whistle:As with now my 12V gauge in the trailer I can see the 14.2 Volts from the alternator when the truck is running. I'm sure if you do some wiring you can upgrade that lead to 10 AWG and then use a RV isolator against that and get the charging power you wish from it. But the #4 pin is not key switched...

:shrug:Isn't your 7 pin trailer plug hooked up with the battery lead from the engine? Like my RV has a 40A charge lead from the trailer plug and will charge up the trailer batteries in no time flat. (Pin #4)

Yes... You should.. I suggest 2 cycle oil but you can look at the HFRR score sheet and choose a low HFRR score additive Bosch requires fuel score of less than 450 to be suitable. Yes... That will meet the requirements... But I would keep a second line or gauge handy for testing the gauge again when the pressure falls isolators fail more often than gauges do... Don't double stack lift pumps you'll distroy the factory lift pump in a short order. It will force the check ball regulator out of the socket internally. I highly suggest you just ditch both pumps and just get a AirDog, FASS, or a Raptor and be done. Only if your fuel pump requires it. Typically the 100 GPH don't but the 150/165 GPH should... Get something that taps the VP44 you'll get better timing curve and better MPG. All other boxes tend to play by the ECM rules. I've been stright piped 3" for the life of the truck and no issues for power, MPG, noise, or towing (egt's). No problem... That what we are here for try and help you learn and get what you want...

Lot of people have internet able phones. But I'm using a older TracFone... :doh:But like me I've got a few phone numbers plugged into the phone of members here on the site. So now I could call a member and hopefully they are at home near a computer and can look up information for me. Now since I'm part of two 911 groups (Mopar1973man.com and IdahoTurboDiesel.com) so I've got a second batch of numbers plugged in as well just to cover my ...

You could move out here... But you might not like the idea of lack of jobs out here... Hmmm... Rough guess about 30 minutes... I could book straight up behind the house and save a bunch of distance but you'll be huff and puffin' by the time you make it to the road. Then you won't want to bother digging with a shovel you'll just go back down the hill and pass out... No machinery... All hand dug with just a normal shovel. I would work about 3-4 hours a shot up there when I had time and then come back down. But the neighbor south of me wants to fire up there water this coming weekend and I knew I was pushing lots of rock and sand down his way. So he waited till I've finished. Sad but true his pickup screen is buried under 2 feet of rock and sand... That was before I even started...

I'm keeping busy around here now with spring here... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oyB4rflR2yI I've been riding the ATV back and forth to dig out the sand and rock debris in the irrigation dam up on the mountain I figured I wanted to show you the trail, and some of the work that I've been busy doing. Oh yeah the water temp is roughly 36-38*F and getting your feet wet sucks.

Correct... That is my theory... I was having problems with my AirDog 150 always getting lower and lower in pressure and then come to find the ball jammed in the coils of the spring and stuck. Pull the ball out and the pressure would automatically rise again till it would wedge itself back in the coils. So I made nearly 1 year now with a oval coil on the spring and no pressure drops.