Mopar1973Man

Ummm... The ditch where it plugged up is on State Ground... Wouldn't matter to him... --- Update to the previous post... Wow! Finally I'm back on the air again... I lost power at 6:08am this morning from a tree that fell through the power line about 8 miles from home. Power was restored at about 2:00pm... I'm very thankful for my power system. Still had lights, water, etc... No problems here just no phone or internet... --- Update to the previous post... It still raining... And now the ground water level is now high enough that its flooding out the guest house. I walked in the guest house and found the water leaking up through the floor. Just like it was back in the 1996/1997 Idaho flood. I'm going up to a friends house in the morning to get a sump pump and see if I can dig a hole deep enough near the building that I can keep the water level down low enough to keep out of the building. But I think the carpet is a loss now...

I'm 99% sure that how all them do it (VE, P7100, VP44)... More pressure = more duration of spray.CR has the ability to command length by signaling the injectors. But also the rail pressure is a factor.

Other than what he's posted... That article should go through the testing of the wiring...

Crank sensor tells the tach how fast the engine is spining, also tells the PCM to start charging because the engine is turning, etc...Just change the sensor...

Any kind of cetane boost is bad... The higher the cetane level the lower the BTU's become so the lower the MPG's become... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/36-fuel-system/67-diesel-fuel-cetane-rating-and-the-effects

I gave up years ago... That's all it seem like I'm doing... Giving it to someone else...

No... It got a block out plate in there...

Well gang... Tales of living in the country. Coming back from McCall, ID and past my neighbors place and notices a new runoff. That don't belong there. So I got home toss everything on the counter and hopped on the ATV and bailed up the mountain. With all the spring runoff the creek that supplies the irrigational dam is running high. The neighbor pulls water out above me and hasn't been paying attention much to his ditch. So with the high running water it pull all the debris down to a culvert and plugged it! So quick thinking using my poke stick I keep at this culvert I kept poking till I seen a whirlpool form... Gotcha! Now a bit of history the ditch was just dug out this last fall and water levels were low so now with high spring run off the ditch was washing all the debris down. The ditch has to go into a culvert and cross a feild and back to a ditch again. At the mouth of the culvert is 2 screens the first one plugged up and washed around it and then plugged up the second one. Even just 2 days ago I was up there and clean them both and went over to the neighbors house and told him to take a ride up for the next few days to keep an eye on it. It didn't happen... NOAA's forcast for us...

For what he spent in oil I got a stock pile... :tongue:Only using the same stuff all the local truckers use...

Too big those are front boots... Smaller are rear boots... Funny I re used my boots 2 times and replaced them on the 3rd go... Just got to be careful.

Welcome Gerry... The best man to talk to about towing and getting the most from those truck would be CajFlynn, BlueOx and a few other towing nuts here on the site...

WARNING! Something to remember all ST tire typically sold have a speed rated of only 60-65 MPH beyond that you risking a blow out. But check with the tire manufacture of what the speed rating really is. Most upgrade to LT tires to get a higher speed rating. Like the tires on mt trailer are Tow Max Load Range D's with a speed rating of 65 MPH so I typically tow at 55-60 MPH tops... No problems here!

Wouldn't be a bad idea to sit down with a digital caliper and measure all the parts and see how tight/loose they are. Like my little cheapy calipers do measure down to 1/10 of a thousandth.

We do the same thing... Like for example we use to have DirectTV and paid about $56 per month fo TV. So 8-9 years ago we decided to yank out the DirectTV because we we'll did watch it anymore. So MoparMom and I continue to pay the bill like it still comes on the mail. But that what we use for good time fund for the traveling with the RV. So very true... Living out here in the back country of Idaho you relize really quick what is a NEED and a WANT. I've gotten used to the simpler life style and have no problems with it. Congrads...

I would just do a NV4500 and be done with it... Nothing hard to swap... There is a member here with a moded trans I just can't remember the name...

Might be a mild air leak from the lift pump change. You could air some pressure to the fuel tank and have a second personal crawl around under the truck looking for damp spots. It might be dirty injectors... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/62-injector-cleaning

Ummm... I've never replaced a crank seal yet... So I'm not sure if you can do it without pulling the cover or not.:shrug:I'm coming to a day when I know I've got to do mine soon. I'm getting the same wet spot...

Ok what kind of fuel pressure do you have? (Idle and WOT at highway speed)Do you have any hard starting issues in the morning?Any error codes present by chance?

Opps... My bad... :banghead: mopar1973man.com I'm going to double check now too... EDIT/UPDATE: I'm so sorry about the password screw up. Geez... It was posted on the download screen and the download note box has it too... Make matters worse I guessed when I should of just looked... But the above bold password should work... Tested for you!

I would settle out the fuel and pump out the top 90% of it out of a 5 gallon buckets. But remember if it is algae problems the fuel is technically contaminated. But I agree with Wild and Free its best to clean the tank really good and start over. While your at it I would blow solvent through the fuel lines too... Make sure there is no other gunk floating around. Then monitor the filter housing... Sample some of the fuel in a clear bottle or such and see if anything shows up.

Yes Sir the password is correct...

Well technically the bolt will be pressurized after the engine is running so as long as the bolt is not leaking while the engine is running I'm going to have to say no. But now all the fuel lines rearward of the lift pump would be suction lines and can leak without warning. Because the air will leak into the line draining it back to the tank.

RAR file is a compressed file like ZIP but with better protection than ZIP. Hence why you need to download the WinRAR program to unpack said file. When the WinRAR is running and it ask ot access the RAR file it will ask for a password. www.mopar1973man.com Then the PDF document will appear and be readable. A while back I was just zipping the files and storing on the site for people to download. Then the file would get damaged or altered in a short period of time... So got tried of checking, downloading, uploading a new copy, etc... So now with the RAR files with password locked and non-standard compression I've not had a issue since! So sorry for the inconvenance...

Apparently you do have a air leak some where. If you have to prime the system that many times. Where is the question?

Right on the bottom of the page... Or from the download area again... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php?do=file&id=224 <- 32 Bit version Win RAR http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php?do=file&id=225 <- 64 Bit Version WinRAR