Mopar1973Man

Just looking at your pic you trailer is very simular to mine body wise. But I know the interior is way different since my kitchen is in the rear of the trailer.I got to admit the trailer looks good dragging behind the Cummins... :thumb1:More pictures...

Come on now... We need to see pictures of it hitched up ot the Dodge at least...:piwwp:Congrads on the the new trailer... You'll love the extra room. For me to upgrade from a 20' dodge Jamboree Motorhome to a 30' Jayco trust me the extra few feet really do add up. As for camping season... It started snowing again...

Now you can upload your own files and pictures to the site and then they are always here for you to use over and over...

Well basically that brake controller senses the brake pedal and then after that sense the amount of G force and calculates how much braking force (or voltage) to apply to the trailer brakes. With the manual slide pulled over is ther power on the brakes? Is the fuse blown for the controller?

Hex most of use moved away from isolators because the in-accurracy that they produce. Not to mention the scare they will give you when the anti-freeze disappears over time. (Low Fuel Pressure) then you got to remove the isolator test the system to relize the fuel pressure is fine but the isolator had lost its anti-freeze or failed. So the needle valve concept stared years ago with direct plumbing. Diesel fuel is not like gasoline where a simple spark are you have fire. So many people direct plumb there gauge in. Like myself I've been direct plumbed for 8 years now. As for the OP question... Even if air is left in the line the air will slowly disappear... You'll notice nice smooth gauge needle sweeps with a bit of air but as the air disappears the gauge needle will get really snappy and you'll be able to hear the water hammer if you open the needle valve to far.

Here you go...[ATTACH]3648[/ATTACH] E92049.pdf

Next post just scroll down when you hit the reply button there is more below the box...

Well gang Idaho is heading back up again... :spend:These pictures were taken as of Feb. 28, 2012Both of these fuel stations are in McCall, ID...

Are you actually cranking the engine or just bumping the starter? You must crank the engine for the injection pump to actually pump. Bumping the starter doesn't do any good...

mnelson@mopar1973man.com I'll post it for you... But all you got to do is post it like attachment picture... Go down to Manage Attachments Button and then upload just like a normal picture...

Here is a quick vid of it...

Normal... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/29-tsb-technical-service-bulletins/45-tsb-09-02-00-heavy-oil-or-fuel-like-odor

Huh... Odd... Mine chipped the one side lost low position... Replace the resistor and been working fine... Don't ask I don't know...

You might go back t othe guys again that did the work. Maybe the change the truck to work the fork lift and now doesn't work the travel trailer...

Not a problem that's what we are here for... To help each other out!

You mean... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/51-high-idle-mod http-~~-//youtu.be/il7iJCKfmaE

Geez... How much timing do you really need... (24* BTDC) is a bit much don't you think?

Yes that is the resistor pack for the blower motor...

That's going to be a nice little trailer when its all said and done...

Automatic trannies will tell you your doing something wrong by either slipping or by gaining temperature. So if the tranny temp is low and the gear is holding strong then enjoy... The best man to talk to about auto's and towing heavy is CajFlynn that man hauls the loads and does it for at least million of miles!

What a mess... :rolleyes:I'm curious to see your new stove jammed in there...

Here is a picture of at least my 35 gallon fuel tank...So just because of a bit of slope or maybe weight in the bed might allow you to fill one of these voids so now with a extra 0.5 to 1.0 gallons could really possible change you calibration.

I would base that on trans temp and ablity to hold the gear without slippage. Like myself I've got a manual but normally don't tow any faster than 55-60 MPH being my trailer tires are rated only to 65 MPH. So I can pull 5th gear most of the time on flat ground. But as soon as the speed falls below 50-53 MPH I drop from 5th to 4th to reduce strain on the trans and 5th gear nut. So the same should be true for Auto's as well. As your speed starts to slide down you know when to kick out of OD and pull your RPM's up to lighten the load.

If its rusted shut try freeing it with a light tapping from a small hammer and PB blaster... If you damage it trying then replace it. But either way you got nothing to lose... I would atempt to free it...But I give you something to think about the only way for that wastegate to rust shut is too much light driving. You might consider hitching up a trailer now and then and working the truck hard. That would build some good heavy boost enough to move the arm on a regular basis. I tend to do the same thing being conservative all wek long light driving and light boost. But about once a week I'll take the truck out warm it up and flog the hell out of it. Better yet when get the tags for the trailer soon I'll just hitch it up and haul it around for 10 miles.

Here you go... Good ol' ISX to the rescue...