Mopar1973Man

... but do it in small amounts of adjustment at a time... Like 1/8 turns or 1/4 turns... If you get it too tight you might damage the box, gears or .

As soon as I get my PC back up and running I'm jumping from vBulletin 4.1.8 to 4.1.10 which has a update for the slow codes and a few editor issues.

Or you could of rebuilt the bracket... Make a old school short box bracket and mount next to the transfer case... (if your 4WD and got room).

Yes there is a way to test it. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/88-bosch-vp44-injection-pump-overflow-valve

So the heater issue is fixed?

Well I know he can surf the site site he just can't post. The new editor box will not put a cursor up when he clicks on it. So he told me he's been sneaking around and reading just can't post...

Hey Gang...Could any of you guys that own Mac Computer give Dorkweed a hand in getting back on the site. He seem to have a older Mac computer with 1.0 GHz processor. Apparently he's only at FireFox 2.0.x and the site is not allowing him to post. I figured its most likely the Java / Adobe Flash is out of date. :shrug:Help a family member return to the site if you have knowledge of older Mac Computers...

Something is wrong for the batteries to be dead in just 2 days... :rolleyes:Time to roll on down to Sears and have them load tested like you said...

Ol' CajFlynn has gotten 300K miles out of a mild moded auto tranny...

Here is the list of rebuilder I know that have all the tooling... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/247-bosch-certified-vp44-injection-pump-rebuilders Now don't let this sway you from using a vendor but make sure to ask the vendor who he's getting the pump from and about warranty. http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=V0Q8qQ2UKRI So as you can see all pump must be tested for a long series of test and pass every test before the PSG is even gets flashed with new software. So the idea of just rebuilding a pump and it missing the test bench is not going to happen nor is a weak or failing PSG computer going to make it past the test bench. Killing myths one at time...

Wow! You got some work ahead of you...As for #1 check all the driver line but also deal with the bearings if there is play it time to change... Unless you got old school cone bearing you can repack. Which I think you got...#2 That will change with season, oil, temperature, etc... Mine is even know to blow a cloud out quite a distance on cold days. If you worried about it do a compression test to see if there is any problems. Don't both with a blow by test... Oh think of that double check vacuum hose it might produce this effect if the vacuum pump is left open.#3 I think you should have a 47RH trans... 727 is a 3 speed which I don't think came out in your year...#4 As fore the gauge this most likely why the trans might not work either. I know the PCM is behind the driver side battery and to controls the dash and every thing. You might check over the wiring make sure the connection are good and not corroded...#5 Ok there is another compurt behind the glove box for the ABS and other stuff if its unplugged the delay wipers might not work. Also it might be the multifunction switch is just wore out...

Or the hose got soft and mushy and now folding over in the wind...

Ummm... I'm always pre-load the system with the heater hose off till the coolant comes out... Then hook up the hose...

Whats the code?Possible bad ground at the lift pump which is hidden behind the starter. This requires to remove the starter to service this ground. (At least on the 02 dodge).Possibly a bad lift pump with a heavy load that is pulling the voltage odwn on that circuit because of mechanical problems internally.

Crankcase vent plugged up? :shrug:Did the hose freeze shut on you causing the crankcase pressure to build up.

Talk to the vendors here I'm sure someone can get you a good deal...

I'll have to take a peek down in my junk pile I might just have some... I've got to get another SATA cord too. So while I'm down there I'll check and see what I've got...

The reason idling doesn't count is that there is a coolant passage within inches of the IAT sensor and when its idling the air flow is low so the coolant will heat the air up. But while your rolling and driving the air flow is higher and the cooler air will not heat as fast so the reading will be much lower.

Brown man showed up today with a box... I'm going off the air for a bit to install this tonight... Both... There is 3 phyiscal drives... But primary drive is partitioned out... Soon to change...

All those 1 MPG gains add up quick...

I had to go up and rate the thread excellent... Wow! You did a awesome job cutting that pump open to see the guts... More! I want to see more videos...

Idling doesn't count it will always warm the manifold up while idling... Like also if I use my exhaust brake I can get some really high temps too...

It more of finding what makes the better MPG than the most HP/TQ... I know with each and every truck seem to be a bit different in what it likes. So it more of a matter of monitoring the IAT temps and seeing which temp nets you the highest MPG value. Since we know you truck most likely is not going to run 1/4 miles track it going to be a daily driver right? So MPG value is going to the number to chase not the HP/TQ number. As for the rest of the system of the tube, filter, etc... There is a lot of claims of flow and such but once again you not running track so your air flows will be much less and short burst for WOT. Like my typically driving I see about 2-5 PSI of boost. I'm capable of 35 PSI but rarely need it even towing.

The lift pump has no relay... It's directly feed by the ECM... Pin 45 of the ECM stright out to the Lift pump...

But there is missed problem with cold air intakes...In any case cold air intake do bring in cold air to the engine but how cold do you really need it? Like I'm up here in Idaho and can pull my manifold temp well into the +20*F bracket on a -25*F day. I find that temps below 100*F (or 60*F weather) in the maniold tend to hurt MPG. Colder the air becomes the harder and later the fuel ignities hence why on the VP44 truck the engine rattle heavily in the cold morning because the ECM kick the advancement way up to compensate for the cold and latency of ignition.Like I found out after 2 years of studying the IAT sensor and its function... You want warmer air to promote ignition of the fuel for better MPG's. Also if you running a box like Edge or Quadzilla you'll get more timing with warmer manifold temps hence better MPG's (Confirmed from Quadzilla Techs).Like myself my IAT is permanently fixed 143*F and my MPG's are roughly 20 MPG even with winterized fuels, temps as low as 0*F to 10*F above. Also I'm running a winter front trapping warm engine heat under the hood for the BHAF to draw in. Give about a +10*F gain on the IAT temps in the manifold vs. without a winter front.Winter weather no longer has a effect on my MPG number any longer...