Mopar1973Man

I'm fussy about where I buy fuel at. I've got only a few place I trust to buy fuel from.

I don't under the links? The bolt that holds that injector cap on. Is torqued to 89 in/lbs...

As for a pergrammer I've already got a Mopar Performance PCM. As for the trans bands I got a trade with a friend to have him come down and adjust the bands. As for air filter I'm going to have to hold for now... Synthetics... You know I'm not a big fan of them... But I'm going to use a slightly light grade oil for this truck like 5w-30 or 10w-30 compared to 10w-40 that's in it now... Brakes have been checked just about a month ago and in good shape. Also adjusted the slack in the rear drums. I'm going to re-do the compression test today. As for vacuum 16 inHg at idle and steady. Good snap and return of vacuum as well. Most likely improve with the manifold gasket change too. Just done a run down the road watching the MAP sensor value and it fried for sure. Coasting showing 1.7 PSIa and WOT 1.1 PSIa so the MAP sensor is screwing up the fuel and timing for the engine.

Not really... Most everything from filters to parts are 99% made over seas...

No carburetor... 5.9L V8 Fuel Injected. That you looking through the throttle body into the manifold below at the plenum that has ruptured gasket. After going to other site and finding there is a fix by Hughes Engine for the plenum which is $119 buck but over at RockAuto.com I can get way more for $30 bucks... http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2194496 Compared to Hughes... http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/products.php?partid=26190 That don't wash with me... When I bought this truck back in 2002 it was keeping 16.1 MPG and now has slumped off to a bare minimum of 10-11 MPG which is just freaking worthless. There is no since in letting another vehicle waste away when the repairs for it are rather simple. Time consuming but simple. As a matter of fact this will fix the coolant leak its got at the lead edge of the passenger side of the intake manifold. Working on engine doesn't bother me if its gasoline power or diesel powered I'll work on either one...

Well make sure you torque all the injector caps back in place... (89 in/lbs)

D'Oh! (I'll reclam myself in my post watch! ) Well with drum brakes you need to look at the slack adjusters and adjust up the rear shoes till they lightly drag. Then check the cable slack and see if the cable is too loose. If the cable is hanging loose tighten it slighly to pull up some slack but don't actually adjust it so far that it pulling the parking brakes on the drum. Hence why I suggest to adjust the shoe up first before adjusting the cable this prevents you from using the cable adjustment as a parking brake adjustment.

Gotta ask is it drum rear or disc rear?

Clear the error codes and then take a drive and then check again... The error codes have to go through 40 warm up cycles before the ECM/PCM can erase any of them...

Ok Gang... I'm now trading hats and becoming a 5.9L V8 owner. So I figured it time to get get the other truck running just as good as the 02 Cummins. Ok history I've got 144K on the clock. As for wondering about the mainfold... I know I got to fix it... Another thing I found was testing the MAP sensor. I hooked up a vacuum gauge and it showing the typical 16-17 in of mercury like usual. But the ScanGauge II is showing the MAP sensor having 1.6 PSIa which is like 26 inches of mercury. So I'm assuming the MAP sensor is screwed... Coffee break is over time to get back out and snoop!

The theory... If you got fresh water in a cup you know the water will freeze at 32*F. So if you take a unknown amount of salt water mixture and blend it into the water the freeze point will be lowered. So if fresh water is the diesel fuel and salt water is the 2 cycle oil you can see if you got diesel fuel with a pour point down to roughly +15*F or -20*F and I'm adding 2 cycle oil of -50*F pour point it has to have a effect of some sort. Chevron Diesel Specs. For Idaho area...[TABLE] [TR] [TD]October 1 - February 29 [/TD] [TD]Cloud Point +26*F [/TD] [TD]Pour Point -20*F [/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] Pour point defined... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pour_point Cloud Point defined... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cloud_point So how did I continue to drive at -25*F? Either I'm extremely lucky... Or ther theory holds water... What is strange about that winter (2010) it was the starting year of the MPG fooler too and I was capable of holding 19-20 MPG the entire winter too... So between the extreme cold and being able to continue driving without gelling up and also holding good fuel mileage for the entire winter was impressive feat...

Yeah I'm pretty sure the P0123 would impact the transmission shift quality because no longer knows how deep into the throttle you really are...

Ones I feel sorry for are the stock truck owners getting sucked into the performance craze and then buying a high performance manifold for big money. Then get it installed and find out it didn't improve anything much... :duh:Personally I don't see a reason for any of the big manifold unless your pump some seriously big HP numbers.

Remember I'm not using a IAT sensor... Mine is locked to 143*F (2.2K Ohm resistor)So I tend to think the APPS sensor is more the cause... Any error codes?

No better than petroluem based... But can't be used in winter climate because all synthetics don't have pariffin wax in the oil so there ho NO PPD additive package. (Pour Point Depressants). So I tend to say away from semi-synthetics and full synthetics because of the extremely cold temps I want something that will aid in keeping the fuel flowing... So I typically go back to petroluem based snowmobile oil that has a pour point of at least -50*F... So far I've manage to get to -25*F with no other fuel additive for gelling...

Just for the sake of information value... Russ your trailer is... 28WTB TT Transport by Tahoe http://www.tahoe-rv.com/TahoeTransport-specs.htm [TABLE=width: 50%, align: center] [TR] [TD]GVWR[/TD] [TD]12,500#[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]CCC[/TD] [TD]3,480#[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]Hitch Weight[/TD] [TD]1,140#[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]Fresh Water [/TD] [TD]100 Galons[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]Grey Water[/TD] [TD]45 Gallons[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]Black Water[/TD] [TD]45 Gallons[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE]

I would validate the error codes by clear the codes now and then go for a ride and check again if the code returns after a 10-15 mile ride then more than likely the code is true. If not the code was a random glitch which sometimes occurs.As for the P0216 its not a good sign but you can buy yourself some time to get funds put together for replacing the VP44. Eventually it will fail or performance will get so poor that you'll be force to replace it.As for the trans shifting problem you might trade your horn relay and the trans relay and see if that helps... But there should of been a code for TQ lockup or something typically.

No... It will pump pulses of fuel flushing the fitting out but no its not going to pump gallons but that all depends on how long you crank on it. :shrug:I know the pump is rated is cc's of stoke... Don't ask how much but its enough to spit fuel though...

Ekkk... Bad injector copper shim or maybe a cracked head.The bad copper shim would allow the compression gases to be forced into the return rail to the fuel tank pressurizing the fuel tank. I've heard of a person with a cracked head and only cracked between the combustion chamber ot the return rail.

Well if it was me I would just cover the port with duct tape or simular for now. But once it was installed on a new engine I would just leave the high pressure lines off and roll the engine allowing the diesel fuel to flush the pump out. Being there is no way of flushing it unless its tied to the ECM for fire signal.

After your done send it my way...

What funny about fuel pressure the early years of CR engine specified 9.5 PSI for MIN PSI then the whole pressure tables where remove later on. As for my low pressure light is a Cummins Switch which is set at 3.5 PSI way too low for my truck being MIN pressure is 10 PSI and I typically keep it above 14 PSI. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/3rdgen/fuel-system/fuel-system.htm But after reading about the CP3 pump a bit I found its also got a overflow valve just like the VP44 got. But the problem is I can't find any specs on this overflow valve and when it opens. Like I'm learning your fuel pressure should be just high enough all the time to keep the overflow open. This would keep the CP3 happy with extra fuel flow lubing and cooling as well as the VP44 style pumps do. But I know on Chevy Duramax truck there have no lift pump before the CP3 so Fuel gelling will show up as a fuel pressure drop of about 2-3 PSI lower than typical and may or may not improve...

Here is the best I can do... Its a bit more to the right center of the head will be a banjo bolt... As for pressure there really isn't much... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=YREpPrMxkHU Remember this is all 24V information its pretty close the same but little differences...

Yes. I've got mine enabled borrowing Bob Wagner's Smarty...

There is a hollow rail through the head that exits at the back of the head... On the 24V it tees into the VP44 return line and return to the fuel tank.