Mopar1973Man

Only time you don't want to push the caliper piston back in is when you know you have a bound up piston. So like my truck right now the front caliper is binding up from debris most likely. So if you push it back in you take the risk of tearing chunks out of the seals. If you brakes are working fine then I've push the pistons back in as well. No issues here...

My bad... But still be careful with the mixture...

Like the truck...

Remember the VP44 pump is designed for 3-5 cSt (centiStoke) fuel not 50 cSt @ 100*F its just way to thick. The only way you could burn large amounts of this oil is to heat it to 210*F then it drops to 9 cSt. So what happen is you put way more stress on the VP44 pump trying to push this thick cold oil in the cool mornings. Then the oil is so thick it doesn't atomize so it doesn't burn good either. Any oil is a cetane reducer so if you add too much oil the burn rate is so slow that you'll actually degrade your MPG number trying to save a few pennys... Once you drop below 100:1 ratio most people report back they lose performance and MPG. The exhaust smoke turns more white. 5% volume is 1.75 Gallons of oil which is cummins designed max... Which is 20:1 ratio. My biggest worry is the the oil viscosity more so that anything else that little VP44 has to pump up that oil to over 4,500 PSI just for a idle. Thicker the material the harder to compress...

Not a problem...

Hmmm... 40 weight... I would start out at 200:1 and work your way towards 128:1 then you can figure out your happy spot. But you won't need to go below 128:1 ratio and you shouldn't need to be above 200:1 ratio.

That seriously crazy EGT's there... Either need more boost pressure or your need smaller injectors...

Now there is a real fixer-upper...

Is the pedal fighting you back? Like the ABS pump is runnig but like fighting to keep you from stopping? What I found out in my case was the 2 front sensor didn't match quite right and so the ABS pump was trying to keep the wheels from locking even though they were not locked. So if the wheel sensors are functional and showing speed but there is a mild offset to it it will treat it like there is excessive brake pressure on on side at this point you'd have a hard pedal. But since both sensor are functional its not going to throw the ABS light. You might consider replacing the other side so the are both matching...

Have no idea... All I know this was a unversial kit that fit many applications...

Here what I bought at NAPA to do mine...

Hmmm... Corroded connector or wet connector some where?

I guess it's time to pull the trans and look...

I guess they want this info... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1543&d=1281643335

Is the master cylinder hung up or damaged causing the pedal to hang down?

Nope... ECM/PCM are just like your old 24V regardless of unplugging the batteries for a period of time the codes will remain. But codes will be cleared in 40 warm up cycles still... The CEL light will clear in a few key cycles typically but remember the code will remain.

Time to drop the HVAC box and screen the vent opening... This will allow you to clean up the HVAC box and get rid of the smell. Yeah I know a long project but this will keep the critters from dropping back in on the blower again...

Like myself I've also been solely using only 2 cycle oil for the last 101K miles and no anti-gel, no injection cleaners, no cetane boosters. I've managed to get down to -25*F this last winter and no issues. I think todays fuel has all the cetane you need you really don't need to add more... As you can see the highier you make the cetane the lower the BTU content becomes... So its best to have low cetane fuels for you truck. Even Dodge suggest 40 cetane in the summer and 45 cetane in the winter. As for fuel lubricity its way under the mark for Bosch's standards. According to Bosch's testing in 2001 all fuels should have a score of less that 460 HFRR. But wait a minute all ULSD is ~520 HFRR... This is where 2 cycle oil steps in... As for injector cleaners... Most of them are solvent based and tend to strip the remaining lubricity out of the fuel much like dumping part solvent in diesel fuel. I highly suggest you don't use these products. As for anti-gel I'm either extremely lucky or the PPD (Pour Point Depressants) in the 2 cycle oil have been aiding me through these last few cold winters. I know that snowmobile 2 cycle oils have a pour point down to -40*F or -50*F here locally in Idaho. So it like saying I know water freezes at 32*F and if I dump in some saltwater (unknown mixture) it will freeze at a lower temp. But no one will know how low because the mixture of the saltware is unknown... Kind of like say diesel is equal to water and 2 cycle oil is equal to saltwater. Just my

Sounds like a blow head gasket...

Cummins dealer...

No problem... But I would use a better quality filter though... (Fleetguard, Baldwin, etc.)

I need some more people in the 500K and above range... I want ot post you guys/gals up on the the milestone page... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/milestone/milestones.htm

Following you with Frantz and doing just find...

First off the big 3 (Ford , Chevy and Dodge) have to quit playing this HP/TQ game of who can haul more. (Really stupid!) Then if Cummins was smart they would roll back to the 12V design because it was efficient of a engine and very simple. Now using all the technology of today and apply it to a 12V engine smaller HP number I'm sure you can get 30-35 MPG out of it and still have a modest 200 HP engine that will tow the family travel trailer, horse trailer etc...