Mopar1973Man

Yeah I did... I comes is a smaller R134a can just a dye pack that you charge up the same way. But what I found out you need the UV glasses and the a good UV light to spot these leaks.

I personally don't agree with washable filter because most times out of ten people deposite dirt and debris on the insideo f the filter by washing the wrong way. Then every time you wash filter the media breaks down more and more taking a bigger risk at opening holes in the media and allowing dirt to pass. As for washable BHAF there is a K&N, AFe, and few others but there media isn't as large as BHAF... Just for fun... My last BHAF which happen to be my first one lasted 135K miles and 7 years... Using the filter minder in the head of it... The filter minder never moved during its life but I always inspected the media. The madia started darkening on the inside so I gave up at that point. So even if you buy a BHAF you really can go a long ways... You got to remember most all roads out here are dirt.

http://youtu.be/fRqj374cc2o http://youtu.be/rasp88nbsRw You guys got to check it out...

Dang that sad that no one is willing to actual do the work to save the owner a few bucks. They would all like to have the easy way out... Nothing again you Russ you know that... 3K miles between us... :banghead: With a bad economy...

ALWAYS!!!

$51 + $82 = $133 I just checked... I went over to RockAuto.Com and a caliper rebuild kit is $2 buck to $5 bucks. Then checking my labor book its 0.8 hours to service a single caliper (1.4 for both). So yeah you could of done much better... As for the caliper ranging $25 to $54 for unloaded (no pads) or loaded (with pads) $42 to $101... (Information base)

Well up here in Lewiston, ID just for fun I got a few prices for charging A/C systems. Dodge Dealer wants $190 bucks. Then Burnell Tire wants $160 for a recharge. Sorry guys... But I can buy 3 cans of freon for $11 bucks and recharge my own for nothing... (Got a start another thread - Don't want to hijack)

Well I got to admit I learned something and feel like a dumb arse... Ok years ago I stuck a piece of hardware mesh in front of the coolers to protect them from bug, stones, etc. What happened is the wind was flexing the screen and rubbing the A/C condenser. If we dig in the archives I'll admit I JB welded the rub marks thinking to protect the line from future damage. Well the damage was done. :banghead: I took the truck to Lewiston, ID to let a tech track down the leak for me. Found out R134A freon mocule is so small it passes through the JB weld epoxy and the tech found the green dye leeching through the JB weld. Sad part is the condenser and the high side pipe are both damaged. So After getting bids around Lewsiton, ID I found out its much cheaper to get the parts through Rockauto.com ($24 for the high side pipe) than a part store ($48 for the high side pipe) or the dealer. ($130 for the high side pipe) So I got to order a few more parts and get busy again...

Removing the turbo is the best and safest choice... Only takes a few minutes to pop it off there... I still say if the turbo is dirty I would clean out the entire air system... (Intercooler, piping, boots, etc)

I would run the AFC starwheel down as far as it will go. This will bring on fuel as quickly as possible. Might even slide the plate forward a bit and see how it all works out... But still it would be a good idea at least check the timing...

I'm playing with the values of resistors now. So I'll let you know how it turns out. I'm at 55 MPH @ 1589 RPM's with 3.55 Gears. I don't start lugging till down to 1,300 or so at least with my truck. I normally run in the 1,500 to 2,000 RPM span. So once I fall to 50 I grab 4th gear and now I'm back up to 2,000 RPM's again. But tell you the truth if you could find back roads that allow slower speeds my sweet spot is 4th Gear @ 1800 RPM and getting better than 25 MPG. You got to remember wind drag will double from 55 MPH to 65 MPH and quadruple from 55 MPH to 75 MPH... Now looking at the 47RE ratios... 4th Gear 0.69:1 Ratio 3rd Gear 1:1 Ratio Then NV4500 Ratios... 5th Gear 0.75:1 Ratio 4th Gear 1:1 Ratio

Got it done the article is here... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen12v/p-pump/timing-check.htm

Comments in blue... If you find the smiley and bring it he I'll upload it to the system...

Draining a batery to 0 Volts does serious damage to them most times. Normal car/truck batteries are consider dead at about 11.8-12.0 Volts below this point damage to the plates start occuring. Remember car/truck batteries are NOT deep cycle batteries so they do not tolerate being discharged deeply and then recharged. Maybe that way my factory orignal batteries at still going yet...

Just the key on. If the key was ON yes then the speed sensor are active. As for the P0500 code... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/abs/abs.htm (Bottom of the page)

Dude! Not that relay... The Fuel Pump relay in the PDC box not the FASS/AirDog relay... The fuel pump relay in the PDC (Power Distribution Center) should kill it dead...

Expanding known issues... 3. Injectors don't tolerate dirt and debris very well. Need a upgraded filter setup (2 micron is best). When a injector(s) start to fail most people don't relize what is going wrong till it to late. Like most up here complain about hard starting and having to use ether to start on a warm summer day. Then find out the injectors are leaking so bad the rings and bearings are washed out. Typical blow by is so extreme that it will blow the oil cap out of your hand as you unscrew it. As Perrysburg Dodgeboy mentions the plus of not having the VP44 failures which really is cheap compared to 6 injectors for a CR engine or even worse a full rebuild from washed out rings and bearings... Every Cummins version has a weak spot... So what is the worse of the two evils?

Yeap... I got the article and get it posted up first thing in the morning for ya... I'll post again and put a link up...

That's what I like to hear I'm glad you got it straighten out and back to running straight...

My igniton switch is so wore out I can pull the key out with it running and lock the doors... As for car thieft out here in Idaho is rather rare... 1. If you do steal a car you won't make it to the next county with it. (Can't out run Motorola)2. It's not hard to steal a rig out here being that most people leave there keys in the ignition with the windows rolled down and doors unlocked. As for people with car alarms the local kids love picking on these cars because they make noise. After awhile the owner typically gets smart and never uses it again. Or the local cats love to bounce on a warm hood tripping the alarm. As for me I lock my truck up even at home. Most of the time its parked in the shop and even locked up in there too. Something about living in California for 20 years kind of does it to you.

Well 6.7L are not know for good MPG numbers... Then one of the vendors informed me the injectors are extremely expensive...

So is the problem cured?

Napa Thermostat... Cummins thermostat is just way too expensive just to have a name... You need to either build my custom crankcase vent or extend it down.

Problem is the spray cleaner will pool inside the turbo so next time you start it up you could have a run away or have the grid heaters ignite the vapor explosively likely do some engine damage. This why I suggest removing the turbo completely. The other problem is if you cleaning the turbo on the engine where do you think the dirt will go next? Most likely inhaled by the engine. So its best to remove it.

You got a VP44 right?