Mopar1973Man

Time to put some expanding foam in the holes.

Dang puppies... Give them a bunch of horsepower and they tell you stories of how speed doesn't kill its the sudden stop that does...

Actually if you disconnect the APPS sensor or the batteries you suppose to re-calibrate the ECM again by disconnection the batteries and going through the process.

I'm glad it worked out for you... Hang around and learn some more...

I'm thinking about getting a o-ring kit and just redo the o-rings in the system... The only thing else is to soap the compressor and check it for leaks...

Thanks for the soap idea... I'll give that a shot... As for a freon sniffer I don't have one... But the evaporator is brand new I installed it this spring...

Hey ISX that's a awesome idea... It might even be a good idea to a adjustable spoiler on the rear of the topper so it deflects the wind up and over the top of the roof...

Ok Gang... I need to pick someones brain... I've got a pretty good leak in the A/C system for it to leak out all pressure to 0 PSI in about 2 weeks. I've got a dye pack in the system but haven't noticed the green tint oil anywhere yet. I'm thinking of grabbing a single can of R134a and add it to the system for pressure and black light the whole thing again... Any ideas or suggestions?

Well Gang... I got the Cummins out of the shop and pull the 96 Gasser in to look it over and check fluids and such. Pull the spark plugs and check the gap and condition. Surprisingly the plugs where in excellent condition and only a few needed a bit of tweaking on the gap. I found a coolant leak and the surprise of it was I knew there was one because of the constant loss of coolant but couldn't see it. Then as the truck warmed up everytime you'd smell the sweet smell of coolant... Found it! The leak was on the corner of the intake manifold and the last bolt of the row was not exactly torqued tight... I'm planing on doing much more with this truck very soon... I'm planing on getting the trans shifting better with a new governor solenoid, ATF & filter change, band adjustment, etc... I want to get both of the truck around here working good. So now you might start seeing small write ups on Mopar V8 gasoline engines now too...

Ouch... Now pull the battery cable and retrain the APPS sensor... When you pull the battery cables you loose the APPS setting but the DTC's will remain forever... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/apps/apps.htm (Bottom of the page)

Yea... The 99's had cam and crank sensors both but the crank sensor is the one used for the tach gauge.

Hmmm... You might have to get a scan tool of your own to keep in the truck. Being there is no way for you to use the key trick because of the year of the truck. But if you had a scan tool of your own you could look at the code when the light appears. But what is strange is the code is disappearing quickly... The rules of self erasing codes is that the vehicle must complete 40 warm up cycles without triggering a error code again. As for the CEL light it can be reset as soon as 3-5 key cycles. But now as for warm up cycles the engine must start out below 140*F and rise above 165*F to be considered a warm up cycle. This might take several days if not months... So you might want to check with a different place with a different scan tool. Oh a tidbit for ya... If you think pulling the battery leads will kill off the error codes it won't. You can leave it discontected for years and hook it back up and the code will be there...

Here is what I pack under the back seat... The only thing I'm missing is a big enough wrench for the fuel lines and a wrench for the injector lines...

Actually your close in figuring it out ISX... I'll give you a clue that there is 2 different ECMs out... Manual ECM has a idle governor and the AUTO doesn't have a idle governor so if something is dragging hard transmission, alternator, A/C etc it might be enough to stall it.

I don't see why that won't work... The only thing you going to have to be careful of is the debris piling up on the top side and possibly jamming the fan or plugging the face of the cooler. You might make it a part of your monthly inspection.

Wow! That good... I was just talking about that to MoparMom about how we use to do the same thing with my 1976 Dodge motorhome. We use to use it to go shopping and then allow us to camp out of it. Then it would allow us to stay in Boise, ID longer to get shopping done. So after you figure out the fuel and then deduct the hotel, food, etc it balanced out to some degree. I'm glad to see you out and still about Russ...

Lot of places can but you might see if the capable of doing a doide test as well. Some of your stall issue might be a shorted diode and AC wave form leaking though. (Crazy ideas)

Wow! That pretty... I like the hanging tree that kind of wicked at first look going huh??? Really pretty area wow!

You need a in cab fuel pressure gauge... You'll love to see the pressure as you drive... Trust me...

Now that's funny!

I admit I'm close to that with the Edge on 5x5... Step 1 Step 2 I killed the smoke switch and no longer use it. I'm on step 3 of recovery I turned down the fuel to help ease the launch smoke and reduce smoking... Now catch up guys...

Or you got a suction air leak and as the air over comes the Raptor pump its starts to whine loud. Double check the fuel system by pressurizing (1-2 PSI) the fuel tank and have a buddy look for wet spots.

You got my attention... :drool:Mom's 96 needs a bit of attention on the bumpers. They are funky and plastic needs help... So I'm very curious how you fastened all the plastic back on...

Yeah its very simular to the electric versions... As demand volume increases (WOT) supply volume is restricted (plugged filter or weak lift pump) you'll start to see the pressure fall at heavy demands this is pointing to supply volume being weaker than demand volume. So now if you insure your lift pump is supplying good volume the pressure should keep up under load...

Good Gawd...