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Mopar1973Man

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Everything posted by Mopar1973Man

  1. Very valid point... I've lean on battery tops and touch a single terminal and the rest of my arm on the plastic and yea feel the tingle run through your arm from the current flow. Also like Elshadow is pointing out the batteries last much longer being clean because it not leaking current across the battery.
  2. How about fuel pressure is the lift pump putting out enough fuel pressure at WOT? Is the fuel filter plugged up? Pick sock in the tank plugged up? As for the P1689 did you check the wiring for problems yet? But 420K miles on a VP44 is lived a very long happy life if it dies tomorrow I'd say you got you moneys worth from it.
  3. Here is what I was talking about size wise... Then my Airdog 150 under the truck...
  4. What do you have going on door sag? http://www.google.com/products?q=dodge+ram+door+pin+bushings&aq=f
  5. Sorry to say Bob but the battery disconnect will not clear the codes... But it will clear the APPS sensor calibration... As for the P1689 code... Check the fuel pump relay in the PDC by swapping the relay with like the horn or something... And you might check over the diagnostic page... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/vp44-replace/vp44-error.htm
  6. Another old trick I'll place here that works! WARNING! Don't do this on the battery. With a propane torch heat the bolt up carefully so not to melt the lead. Get it as hot as possible and then dip it in cold water. What occurs is the metal expands as you dip in ice cold water the exterior metal contracts rapid and usual enough to loosen the fastener. I done this trick on older metal battery hold downs and easily twist the nuts right off with your fingers... But in your case with the lead terimnal you got to be careful...
  7. :wow:That is a lot of saddle time...
  8. Geez... I love finding out history like that! I typically try to imagine what it must of been like back in the day when that dam and archway was built.
  9. At this point I would take and remove the battery lead from the battery. Using a hacksaw I would cut the bolt out of the terminal though the gap in the lead. Now you can replace the battery terminal bolt. As for keeping the corrosion free is simple I use good ol' engine oil. I take my oil can and give a small oil to each terminal and wipe around. Then very carefully squeeze a few pumps on the tie down bolts and let it run to the bottom. Here is my terminal after 9 years with my factory batteries yet... Take notice the hold down bolts at factory fresh and not all ate up and corroded.
  10. Yea I got to authorize the files for download use... So let me know when you do upload to the site because it doesn't notify me...:banghead:
  11. This applies to the VP44 trucks. I know as the boost pressure rises the timng curve start to retard some. So if you boost rises above 5 PSI you losing timing now. Also more boost means more fuel used. As for the pyrometer more fuel means more heat so keep the heat down and MPG's will naturally rise up. Now how I found this tidbit was playing with a smoke switch and you can phyiscally hear the rattle change or disappear as the boost fooler is switch on (full boost). Then return to normal (0 boost) and rattle returns. Nice part is most of Idaho (in my local area) the highways are in the range of 45-65 MPH. All city streets are 25 MPH. Then all residential areas are typically 15 MPH. Most of the time I set the cruise for 55 MPH and most of the time traffic doesn't mine and they just tag along.
  12. Biggest killer is speed... Just going from 55 to 65 MPH will produce double the load. So first off slow way down and set your cruise at 55-60 MPH if you can safely. Dragging brake shoes and/or pads. A single caliber with a gummy puck will eat over 3-4 MPG off your typical MPG number. Don't let this bite you and buy new calipers or brake parts most of the the time you can clean the parts and reassemble and gain back your MPG number.
  13. I don't think so... Just crossed the 175K mark and still truckin' Mighty Whitey needs to roll more...
  14. Problem no wrecking yards near me... Well there is Riggins but there is nothing there for Dodge's... Next closest good wrecking yard is 180-200 miles away...
  15. I know he's been through a few lift pumps and VP44's but how many of each I'm not sure... I remember not to long ago he bought a NAPA VP44 pump and it didn't last much more that a few thousand miles... (3-5 days) I know he'll correct me if I'm wrong...
  16. Well... I hooked up the manifold gauge shot about 100 PSI in the system fire the compressor for a short while to stir the dye oil around to give me a wet spot that is fresh. I black lighted everywhere on the system and found nothing. So the next step was to look for phyiscal damage. I found some... Well I feel like a horses ... I kept a piece of hardware mesh in found of the radiators for years helping keep the bugs and debris out of the coolers and radiators. On the lower left corner as you face the condenser you can clearly see where the hardware mesh had been rubbing the condenser main tube. So I'm going to break out with JB weld and patch it for now and see if that might of been the cause. I'm still going to pressurize the system again and soap it when it a bit warmer today... But This is what I found so far...
  17. Well gang... I got a call from CajFlynn and he's bragging... well his 2001 Dodge Cummins truck just rolled over the 900,000 mile mark and just to prove it I got him to shoot a picture of of the odometer will his cell phone and send it to me... And here is what he hauls everyday... Oh Yeah these pics got added to the video pile! Added - Signature of CajFlynn...
  18. John your really close to me... Straight pipe exhaust 3"/BHAF/2 Stroke +120HP for Level 5x5 Edge Comp +40 RV275 Injectors Last rolled Dyno was 2007 without the injectors 381/826 & 379/831 http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/dyno/dyno%20day.jpg
  19. Hmmm... I got another great forum that is specialize in Tractor and such... www.tractorfarmandfamily.com The owner is a member here LiveOak or (TFF Admin)
  20. Ummm... elshadow I've got 2 Dodge trucks... 2002 Dodge http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/2122-Mopar1973Man-2002-Dodge-Cummins 1996 Dodge http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/2123-Mopar1973Man-1996-Dodge-Ram Then... 1978 Dodge Magnum XE 1976 Dodge Jamboree Motorhome 1973 Dodge Charger SE 1951 Willy's Jeep
  21. Don't sweat it... That lock will flip at 20 post and automatic upgrade to standard membership... As for the truck is a good candidate for restoring. It mighr be fugly now but its going to be a winner later on! I love the idea of watching someones dream turn to reality. Like my program truck 96 Dodge Ram I'm going to repaint the roof and hood this winter nad put a black boss stripe over the truck just to give it style... So post up your ideas and we'll help you along...
  22. Dude don't even go there... I've got fugly too... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/2123-Mopar1973Man-1996-Dodge-Ram
  23. Awesome job on the crack repair... The dash mat cover it nicely... I've always though og the dash rugs... I always hated how everything glides across the dash and falls on the floor...
  24. I had the same though of just pressurizing the system with compressed air and soaping the system also looking for the funky green dye with black light... I do the black light first before the soap to prevent washing the dye off.
  25. Dude that's just wrong... So were is the pic? or Link?

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