Mopar1973Man

Well there is a catch to grid heaters too... Remember with them hitting on a cold morning they draw more than the alternator can use. So like this morning low is 55*F and if I was to have a fire call like I use to then I would fire up and drive 3/4 of mile and shut down... This is not enough time to recharge the batteries. So I've had a few weak starts... Like I know there is no reason or need for a gridheater on 55*F morning but the ECM is going to cycle it... Another flaw found... It not all based on IAT temp for grid heaters either. Its also based off the battery temp sensor too. So lets say 20*F you wait for the light fire up and cruise the to town say 20 miles engine is completely warmed up and 195*F worth of coolant. Now you stop at a local stoe to grab a pepsi or something and dart back out. The grid will run again even though the IAT is like 120*F from heat soak but the battery sensor is much lower... So since I live is a area where I bounce back and forth across the grid heater boundary I tend to just unplug them. Also if you do a lot of short trips 1-5 miles your batteries just won't charge up after being drawn down for 190 Amps...

Might be an idea for Mom's 96... That trans is constantly jumping back and forth and locking and unlocking the TQ converter because of every little small hill. Gets annoying... I thought of doing a lockup switch and locking the TQ but it might be the idea of keeping it unlocked till I get out on the flats. Lets see the wiring diagrams... Pics wanted!

I should actual check mine and see if its leaking pass the poam gasket on the HVAC after working on my system...

I just unhook then and roll it over against the battery no tape or nothing... It only 2 heavy black lead on the postivie cable. Then you don't have to wait for the light just fire it up and run. I run my truck down to 30*F without grid heaters...

If you remove the positive lead from the battery your fine... But if you disconnect the solenoids (smaller wires) then it will toss a error code (P0380 and P0382)

Nice set of pics to give the OP a idea or two... I'm a typical a-pillar guy...

Another way to reward the people that have been very helpful and supportive of other members. This is a permanent rank increase too... Once you get there your at the top of the mountain... More information on this here... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/donations/donation2.htm Tech Specialist Is a special rank that is given by the staff of Mopar1973Man.Com. My idea here is for the special members that really have put there all into helping the site. The staff will pick out a person and allow the members of the site vote on if he or she gets the promotion. Once you make the Tech Specialist rank its permanent. No need to renew your account ever again...

Just make sure the honor there warranty no question asked... so when the pump fails say 6 months from now and you send it back to them they don't give you a sond and dance about how you screwed it up and then they void the warranty...

Opps... Typo... Geez guys... Watch the CHECK ENGINE Light it will flash the codes to you.. 4 flashes and pause then 5 flashes would be a code of 45. 55 is a end of codes... I had a page up with the list of flash codes but it seems to be gone during the change over to the XHTML pages...

Goes to prove I'm not exact the big man for everything and I'm human and do make mistakes too... (Even more so before the first cup of coffee)... If I remember right... 98.5 and 99 had the crank sensor then starting in 2000 it was deleted (someone verify this)... The Cam sensor took over the roll of the crank since the VP44 can detect RPM's and TDC too internally... Then in 2003 it seems to come back for the 3rd Gens...

Wow! See the forum is a good thing people are learning quick...

Geez... Feel the love...

I would check the error codes and fluid condition as Koyote suggested... Well just reading over the Dodge FSM quick... HAS FIRST/REVERSE ONLY (NO 1-2 OR 2-3 UPSHIFT) 1. Governor Circuit Electrical Fault. 2. Valve Body Malfunction. 3. Front Servo/Kickdown Band Damaged/Burned. SHIFTS DELAYED OR ERRATIC (SHIFTS ALSO HARSH AT TIMES) 1. Fluid Level Low/High. 2. Fluid Filter Clogged. 3. Throttle Linkage Mis-adjusted. 4. Throttle Linkage Binding. 5. Gearshift Linkage/Cable Mis-adjusted. 6. Clutch or Servo Failure. 7. Governor Circuit Electrical Fault. 8. Front Band Mis-adjusted. 9. Pump Suction Passage Leak.

Funny part is that Dodge had the key trick as far back as 1989 Dodge Ram trucks (1st Gen) and ran all the way till 98.5 and stopped and then started again at 2000 and continued with the key trick... All 1989-1998 key trick will work but it flash codes on the odometer... All 2000-up display Pxxxx codes in the odometer display... 2001 is the only weird year where some display only the P-PCU (PCM error codes) and some display both P-PCU and P-ECU (ECM error codes) and 2 P-Done. So if I can unravel the mystery to the 2001 key trick then we can narrow it down to a smaller group of people that may or may not be able to key trick...

That's sad... Well at least its insured and a new one is coming soon...

Busted me...:banghead: 2002 doesn't have a crank sensor... (D'Oh!) It does have a cam sensor located on the gear case just below the VP44... Thank AH64ID you got me thinking this morning... I need to drink my coffee...

Located just above the starter and its held in by a single 10mm head bolt if I remember correctly... But the starter will have to come out to get the sensor out though...

Body [*]Dodge Ram 1500 [*]Short Box [*]Extended Cab [*]MOD - Custom Fog Lamps [*]MOD - Tinted Windows (5% Rear Windows 35% on side windows) Engine / Transmission [*]V8 Magnum 5.9L Gasoline Engine [*]46RE Automatic Transmission (4 Speed) [*]4 Wheel Drive [*]3.55:1 Gear Ratio [*]CAD Front Axle [*]MOD - Mopar Performance PCM Vehicle Labels Interior [*]MOD - Pioneer CD Stereo

Body [*]Dodge Ram 2500 [*]Long Box [*]Quad Cab [*]MOD - Custom Fog Lamps [*]MOD - Tinted Windows (5% Rear Windows 25% on side windows) [*]MOD - Custom Backup Lights [*]MOD - Frantz Filter [*]MOD - Custom High Idle Engine / Transmission [*]I6 5.9L Cummins Diesel Engine [*]NV4500 Manual Transmission (5 Speed) [*]4 Wheel Drive [*]3.55:1 Gear Ratio [*]Non-CAD Front Axle [*]MOD - AirDog 150 [*]MOD - Custom Crankcase Vent [*]MOD - Edge Comp [*]MOD - Exhaust Brake [*]MOD - Straight Pipe Exhaust [*]MOD - RV275 Injectors [*]MOD - Southbend Clutch Vehicle Labels Interior [*]MOD - Kenwood MP3 Stereo [*] MOD - ScanGauge II [*] MOD - DiPricol Gauges (Boost, Pyro, Fuel Pressure) [*] MOD - Overhead Console Switches

Hmmmm... I'll see what I can come up with to do a test run for ya... Straight #2 and then 128:1 mix...

Well I can tell you that if the fuel is below 60-70*F the fuel heater is running... As for fuel temp there is a error code for overheated fuel... I've never seen 1 report of this code yet... P0180 FUEL INJECTION PUMP TEMPERATURE OUT OF RANGE

The full load is the number that is a problem... Need to keep your numbers up above the 10 PSI range if possible... As for using 0-100 yeah it might get better with a in dash 0-30 PSI gauge...

That is truely odd... I would then look at the cable and see if its stretching maybe?

In theory it helps as for factual testing it not been done... Like saying you got a cup of water you know freezes at 32*F but now you got a second cup of salt water (unknown amount of salt) but start adding salt water to the water and the freeze point will decrease. How much unknown but it will lower it... Same with most diesel fuel Like around here its CP (Cloud point) is around +25*F so if you add 2 cycle oil (snowmobile) with a pour point of -50*F I'm sure it will aid it reducing it but how far I don't know...

Hang in there... I know sometime when it rains it pours but the sun does shine again... So don't give up on the Dodge yet...