Mopar1973Man

As for the exhaust brake it has no ill effect ot being used on a engine... The valve creates back pressure equal to that amount of boost you normal produce on the intake side. So it reverse effect is slowing down the engine. As for changing out the injection pump your going to need about another ~$1,500 to do it and tear down the front of the engine... * gear case (Incudes pulling the cam) * high pressure fuel lines * new throttle linkage * new lift pump or change the cam for a cam with a lobe for a mechanical fuel pump. And a few other things that you'll have to change to finish up...

Don't sweat it my truck is no spring checken either... My truck has been hit by a tree, driver side is all chipped up, the pasender side, is rather new looking, rims are starting to corrode, etc... I now try to hide this under a thin coat of wax and dust...

CajFlynn here has 815K on his 2001 Dodge... Here is a copy of his signature... 2001 qdlb, stage 2 f1 injector, 3 disc tc, 4 inch exhaust, arp head studs, ats co-pilot, power puck/smarty, j-hook, lots of gauges, lots of mag-hytec, bhaf, vulcan big line kit, 815K miles

I agree with dually... Even though I turn off my Edge Comp its still on doing boost fooling and keeping the Map sensor signal with in reason. So to truely return to stock you got to unplug everything including the wire tap...

How about a good pic of it doing some work... Towing, haulin, getting dirty...

Here you go gang... http://www.thedailytimes.com/article/20100520/NEWS/305209993

I'd love to have a set of these mirrors...

Get a piece of old rubber hose split it down theside and put it over the freon line to protect it from rubbing from the BHAF...

You are one of the few people that was lucky enough to fail within specs and not toss codes... .334 is a bit low for volatage typically idle is right around 0.5 volts... So I can see that causing issues with idling lower. So yeah it's time to think about replacing the APPS sensor...

I've seen people mount trans coolers on the front of the truck and route the fuel thorugh the cooler and back to the pump but this has a design flaw. What do you do with -20*F to -50*F weather??? You design must include a option for northern states lincluding Alaska... So to keep from trying to re-invent the wheel most just keep the fuel flowing through the VP44 and it seems to do fine. Like myself I'm at 117K miles and still going strong... ---------- Post added at 10:02 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:45 AM ---------- I'm curious...

Really... What wrong with a Stealth cover? I've got over 4 years on mine and closing the door on 75K miles without too much issues... The only one I had was the nut backed off slightly and gave a weak connection to the wire. Tighten the nut again problem solved... Yeah but if you solder or mess with the wire most places won't warranty a pump... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=711

Hmmm... Current form... RV275 Injectors, Edge Comp 5x5, Straight Pipe Exhaust and BHAF. Cruising at 22 MPG (55-60 MPH) I see 500-550*F EGT and about 1-2 PSI of boost. WOT at 100 MPH - 34.5 PSI of boost - I'm tipping 1,500*F EGT. (Only done this once!) I'm very PRE Turbo...

That's the problem if you increase the signal voltage out of the APPS the voltage would most likely cross the printed voltage on the APPS if your stock. So this would trip the switches to reverse (off idle). I'm wondering what your at for voltage now (APPS Signal) and what you APPS voltage is on the tag? http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=699

The problem is the elctronics are faced against the fuel side of the module so mounting something on top isn't going to do much. The CPU cooler and fan idea was tried for many years but there but so little proof that it actually works. I've seen people use blowers from power boats with plumbed in cold outside air with a timer box that runs the blower till the VP44 is cool. But once a again there is no proof or long term testing showing that it actually worked... I'm starting to lean back on the though of a good high volume pump like a AD 150 or FASS 150 and keeping the fuel pressure between 15-20 PSI this way I'm sure the overflow valve remains open all the time. I had a conversation with another fellow that was telling me that he works with VP30 and VP44 pumps on tractor and such too. Come to find out that both models of injection pump have a very poor ablity to pull fuel even though the have the on-board vane pump. (Which we knew to the more part). But the I'm starting to think the internal vane pump isn't really doing its job all the hot. even at low pressure like 10-14 PSI that vane pump if it was working right it should be able to pull a enough fuel to push the overflow open...

I think you both have lost your minds...

You could crank up the APPS sensor but now you'll have problems with the idle validation switches... So I not sure how you would get it idled up more without making a new problem... Vp44?

Might have??? But know since you got a new sensor and the problem is solved I would hang on to the old one and lean it pu and see if you need a new one in the future maybe it will work for ya...

Yeah I do but I don't want to think that I'm turning 40 years old, and only old tymers wear them (no offence to you guys!) I've been wearing glasses since I was 11 years old. So that doesn't bother me...

Engine remains turned off... Place the cap over the mouth of the turbo and now you use compressed air and regulate it to 20 PSI. Which this now simulates turbo boosting 20 PSI. You should be able to see wastegate function on a stock setup. If not you'll have to increase the air pressure to your wastegate setting... Don't exceed ~35 PSI I don't want to hear about blown head gaskets from boost testing. As for the air if you got a regulated air supply you now can spray down the system with soapy water looking for bubbles. Check IAT & MAP sensor, manifold cover gasket, boots, intercooler, etc... If the air is bleeding through the engine shut off the air supply and rotate the engine a bit and try again. I don't want to hear about people getting tangled up in the fan as the air pressure twisted the crank around on them.

Hey JohnFak... I just bought the supplies for building a boost leak tester... I'll assemble mine tomorrow and get pics of it for ya...

Well when it rains it pours big time in Idaho... There isn't a heater in the western states according to Napa. The closest one is in New York state... Then I ask my sales rep to dig and find out if there is another vendor that can handle it. Sure enough he called the dealer and I was quoted $280 bucks for heater core from the Dodge $tealer... Well I told him to hang on to his notes and I'm going to do some research... So I call one of my vendors and check to see what he's got... well so far it looks like a waiting game and see who can get a heater core the quickest and cheapest... Hmmm... Now I'm stuck driving a gasser... I was just getting all excited because the weather was warming up and I was starting to pull good MPG in the Cummins and hit another rock wall... :banghead: (Ouch ouch ouch!)

Well I got started on the A/C... I started by pulling all the ngine side stuff out of the way... BHAF, tubing, heat shield... No comment about my silencer ring... (Shhh!) http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1039 Drain some coolant off and pull the hoses loose to the heater. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1038 Broke out with the special release tool and pulled the A/C lines loose... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1037 Opps... I though I had gotten all the pressure off... Not much left but enough to scatter the dye pack around the firewall. Yes I'm using a black light ot show this. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1036 Pull the first screws of the kick plate and remove the kick panel. Then remove both bolts on each side. The 5 screws across the top, and there is 2 bolts and 2 nuts in the center. 5 speed you got to pull up the console. Also drop the steering column down on the seat which is 2 10mm nuts. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1035 This is where I quit for the moment... Whew! http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1034 WARNING! The dash does have sharp edges and will cut you easy... Becareful! http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1040 Then... When it rain it pours... My heater core is going south... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1041

Well it must of rattled loose and pop out just as I ramped up to 35 PSI (Bang!)... Passing a RV on a grade... But the funny part is I just got done wrenching the bolt back in tight and found out the bolt never hit the hood because of my crankcase vent was in the way... So looking at it closely it hit the pipe and tumble back against injector line #4 and laid there... Talk about lucky... Closest hardware store with metric bolts is 20 miles away now...

Boots are all in place... I was a assuming its a fender rip from contact because I can still build about 5-8 PSI... ---------- Post added at 11:26 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:04 AM ---------- Nevermind... Problem figured out... 1 of the manifold bolt blew out hit the hood and fell back into the injection lines and laid there... So I found my boost leak and will still build my boost test to verify I find and other air system faults now... So time to break out a 10mm socket and tighten a few things... Yeah I know Dodge makes and Cummins shakes it... Well the old girl is shaking out here fastners...

How offen do you change oil? Remember even the owners manual suggest every other oil change (15K miles). You might be changing too early...