Mopar1973Man

I got mine through Diesel Manor for about $9 bucks a filter...

Here is a few pics...

Is it possible you broke the friction plate with the spring pack??? This made the clutch drag in all gear 1st through 5th and including Reverse... Then always made a popping noise on engagement.

You mean??? http://www.sunpro.com/product_category.php?id=331

I heard of these too that replace the vacuum motor with a pull cable.. This way you could actually get 2WD LO range...

Or like a manual 5/6 speed trans gets reather warm too because of the same reason... No coolers, etc...

Hmmm... I've been 6 years basically without a pre-filter (116K miles) and still running the same filter... I did have a outwears pre-filter but it did last long about 9 months I rubbed holes in it and gave up... So back to filter by itself... Most of my truck life is on dirt roads since the only paved road is US95 highway... But if your looking for a prefilter try over at www.vulcanperformance.com at BHAF for a price of $33

Well... Typically most of all my loaded towing is downhill from the mountain and don't have to pull far... But now I've rebuilt my trailer and been tugging around my ATV and other stuff I found that keeping right around 60-65 MPH (1,800-1,900) isn't to bad I netted ~18 MPG on my trip over to the Brownlee Res. for a fishing trip.

I'm assuming your talking about the pipe heading towards the intercooler right? Ok to double check yourself... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/turbo/turbo.htm Truely there should be no oil inside the air piping at all... The only source is the turbo... So double check the turbo closely and see if there is other traces (or clues)...

I can't seem to find a MSDS page or document on the product... I did find where there tested on a train engine (diesel) in Oxnard, Ca. The net results were that the emmissions where reduced by 11% but so was the HP rating too...

Yeah... I checked mine its warm to the touch but not really bad...

Take a 2x4 and rap in a rag and now place it over the piston. This will keep the piston from getting damaged. Now use compressed air to get them up. WARNING! If your using air pressure part(s) can fly and protect yourself properly. Watch your hand and fingers to make sure they don't get smashed! Once the pistons are out you can remove all the seals and wash the caliper with soap and water. Blow dry with compressed air to prevent rusting. Now since all the seal are removed. The piston should fall to the bottom of the bore without PUSHING! If not light sand the piston with light sandpaper (600 grit or higher) and then try again. The piston should not hang up at all. So now the pistons are tuned in for each bore re-assemble then and during the assembly process lube the pistons up with brake fluid before assemble. At this point the piston will take more effort to push into the bore. Seat them completely to the bottom. Now re-assmeble, mount, bleed, and seat the brake pads...

Yeap... 1. Shim the spring.2. Get a different spring.3. Or stretch it out (not suggested) You might notice the problem I see every year or so the plastic check ball wedges down into the coil of the spring reducing the pressure. Just pull the spring back out of the coil and re-install and usually you'll see a 1-2 PSI gain.

If you both are paying attention I was playing with a fire truck that day so since I've got a 1 1/2 Fire Hydrant in the yard I figured it would be a great to fill the Redneck swiming pool... I hate to say I never got in it being I know my water is cold (40-45*F) all year long.. Using a fire truck that got 1,000 GPM pump you can fill a truck bed in quite a hurry... As for pictures... I've got only 7,200+ pictures only taking 5 GB worth of space on my 25 GB hard drive partition...

Been there done that...http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=913 I must be truely a Redneck then...

Ok... Then I take back my last statement... So they do have a use but a very expensive option...

OMG!

Yeap I'm running the very same filter on my truck... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/airdog-150/airdog-150.htm (bottom of the page)

Yweah there was a local boy here that ran big semi-truck and had a receipe for racing diesel (which included gasoline). But to this day I'm just not to fond of the idea of mixing it in... I know there is a lot of things you can get away with but what are the long term effect of doing this over and over again to the fuel system?

If your just planing on mild upgrade say to about 400-450 HP a 95-100 GPH pump is fine... Beyond that your going to need at least 150-165 GPH pump. As for myself I went for the 150 GPH being that there was only a $20 buck increase for the extra 50 GPH but today most dealers sell both the 100 and 150 pumps for the same price... As for stock anything pump... The only thing there good for is tossing in the trash can... (Sorry to say that...)

Sorry JL... No Dumping allowed in the back country of Idaho... But if you don't want the truck bring it to me I'll take it off your hands free of charge of course.. (No dumping or waste fees!)

Yeah... x2

Very interesting... I'm also curious how they phase the CP3 gear... This is just about worth making a write up about... I'm sure there is a lot of people that never heard of this...

Cummins2K has a point the older style mechanical pump dont have the features of the newer electronic pumps. The older pumps like the VE and P7100 pumps were mechanical and couldn't really change timing and fueling parameters based on weather, temperature, altitude, etc. Then tuning the old school pumps were a pain sometimes where the newer electronic pump are all PnP (Plug N' Play). Just plugged in your tuner and go... As for the change over of converting a VP44 to mechanical I've never heard of it but I'm willing to check out what you find... It would be interesting...

Basically on a Dodge diesel is the HVAC system and the CAD axle control. (98.5 to 01) From (01.5 to 02) the only thing vacuum controls is the HVAC. The only optional accessory is exhaust brake which is vacuum driven. Like said above just use a test vacuum gauge and test you line under the truck checking source and switching abiliites of the 4WD vacuum switch.