Mopar1973Man

Yeah Mopar Mom showed me this and I think I can knock that out rather easy... I just got to make a trip to the metal shop in Grangeville, ID to get the steel... Got the welder and torch... Just need the steel!

+1 for W&F...

The other factor is how is the pump measured for volume isn't that done at full flow open line.

Hmmm... Valid thoughts... What did I stir up here??? Well still in all the VP44 does have issues with either the electronics getting overheat and burning out or the mechanical part of it failing. I think the idea of the return line also plays a role in this too being that its stock old 6mm ID line and can only flow so much volume per time. So at some point or another you show hit a plateau where pressure increase doesn't cool any more because of the simple fact you can only get some much volume down that line. You got to remember the return rail for the injectors have got a small amount of fuel returning too. Maybe its a good debate happening and maybe we can figure out a better way to make these pumps last longer...

My thought exactly...

Yeah... i agree so far with you... But if your flow rate through the pump is too much wouldn't you think it would be like taking a thermostat out of the block. The fuel might race through so quick that it doesn't pull heat away from the pump and electronics. Your right about the valve not being binary... So true... When I was playing with the one I got here I was playing with the air gun and regulated air. But what I saw was a check ball that vibrated even at pressures as low as 15 PSI. Now the overflow valve I got is used so the characteristics could be a weak spring. Being that air isn't very dense it could be the cause of the vibration. But now put diesel thorugh it it should be steady (for the most part). But with compressed air it appeared that the overflow valve is complete open by 20 PSI... But now if your idle pressure is like mine its at 17-17.5 PSI. So that valve should be open and flowing fuel through the pump. But at WOT now the fuel is flowing out towards the injectors at a high rate (>15 GPH) so WOT isn't a really big issues with cooling and lubing that I can see. I would assume somewhere below 10 PSI is where the diaphragm damage comes in. So operating a VP44 down to 10 PSI isn't bad that I can see but the pump has to be flowing a good rate all the time to kepp the fuel moving for cooling lubing. So if you idle/coasting pressure is above 14 I can't see how the VP44 can get damaged in theory... Because after watching several thread on numerous forums you always see "Common Joe" stock fuel system and it idles at 12-14 PSI and WOT dips below 10 rather easy... Typically this person would be looking at a VP44 replacement in under 100K miles. But now you look at even the home brew setups where the owner threw a Holley Blue (stretched the spring) and added a Big Line Kit... No problems. The idle pressure is typically in the 15-18 bracket and the WOT will fall to as low as 8 PSI... But I've seen several of these guys go 100-200K miles and no problems... Might change pumps frequently but VP44 lives on...

Ok Gang... You all have seen the Dodge FSM book minimum pressure of 10 PSI. Well I started to do some thinging and relized even that is too low. Here lets take a look at a pic here... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=878 So now let assume your fuel pressure average is about 12 PSI which is above the 10 PSI minimum pressure. Driving down the highway at 55-65 MPH your going to be flowing at least 2-3 GPH through the pump. But now let add a twist to it. New situation... Going up to Seven Devils Campground its a 17 mile drive up a 1 lane dirt road that is steep. I'm dragging a utility trailer with 2 ATV's. Ok for the sake of the post we'll say the fuel pressure is still 12 PSI. Climbing that grade I'm going to be flowing 7-10 GPH through that pump which is a good thing because the high flow keeps the pump lubed and cooled. But now the weekend is over time to drive home. So on the way down I set the exhaust brake and put it into 2nd gear and let it limp down the rough old trail it take about 45 minutes to 1 hour to return to the highway. So now the whole way down the mountain there is 12 PSI heading into the VP44 and but now your not throttling much if at all coming down the steep grade. So this means there is no flow to the injectors... And the Overflow valve is closed because you need 14 PSI to open it. So basically there is no fuel flow. So now the electronics and the mechanical part start to heat up the stale fuel and break it down. Remember diesel fuel is a very poor lubricant anyways. So now you see this is really easy to burn up or damage a injection pump. Now I'm starting to suggest 14-15 PSI as a minimum pressure and 20 PSI as a maximum pressure. This now keeps the overflow valve open and the fuel flowing through the pump while its spining and keeping the VP44 electronics cooled... Any thought on this???

Make sure you get gagues installed first before you got adventureous... You'll be surprised how fast pyrometer can change when making adjustments to the plate. Here is a simple kit I found for just a little more than $100... http://www.shop.eatsoot.com/product.sc?productId=21

Man I wish I lived closer... That looks like you had a blast!

Sounds like there is a reed switch that had debris caught in between the contacts... This sound like you need to open the radio up and look at it closely... You should be able yo remove the cover plate and hook back up and watch the action and see whats going on... There should be a reed switch or simular that detects the position of the CD.

Well gang... My Kenwood MP3 player is actiung up and giving me fits. It was good ol' Mom that got me thinking... Well I grabed a old CD and flipped it up-side down and got a good grab on it and notice that when the disc was inserted you could feel it grab a bit strong on the label face. Hmmm... It also scratch the label face pretty bad... (Dirty) But I never let it go in... So this evening I start thinking and grab the scratched CD now and rapped a old tee shirt over it and dampen it with alcohol and inserted this shirt cover disc part way. The alcohol acts like a mold lubricant and allowed the roller to spin and against the tee shirt covered disc and clean the rollers. I start push and tug slightly as the roller pull and pushed. Now I got a MP3 deck that ejects the disc everytime now... No more fighting the player...

If you every seen some of these crankcase flushes out there it smells like kerosine... So I would change the oil and filter... As long as you don't drive around a long ways i don't think you got to worry about it much...

Sweet ride... Look ready to haul anything... So what under the hood?

:banghead: D'Oh! That's right the early 24V's had CAD vacuum shift for 4WD operation so that vacuum line runs back to the transfer case then back forward to the CAC unit for hub locking/unlocking...

This should help...

So what did you get?

I'll keep my eyes out for one... But as far as I can tell for a vacuum lines on my 02 basically comes out of the pump goes to the firewall and over the engine on the cowling then near the passenger side it enter the cab for the HVAC system. Mine has a tee in the line for the Exhaust brake and thats it...

Sweet... I love to have that for hunting up here in Idaho... Nice conversion! Very clean!

Band adjustment? sorry I'm not much for Automatics...I know ol' Wild and free here should be able to help you...

Had to copy that over... Make it easier to find next time... (thanks! for the find Guesswho512) You need a blowby tool. The Cummins blowby orifice tool is simply a tee with one .221" (15/64-in) outlet. Connect one end of the tee to the end of the blowby tube. Put a manometer on last tee outlet. That is your blowby tool. They sell them at the Cummins, but I have made my own plenty of times, less than $10. A simple manometer can be made by looping into a 'U' 6 feet of clear tubing with water in it half way. Measure how high the water level rises with a tape measure, multiply it by 2, convert it to LPMs. Rough conversion is 1"= 27 lpm, add 3 lpm for each one inch (1/2'' of rise in the tube) of water The reason for multiplying by 2 is that inches of water equals the water rise in the open end of the tube plus the inches the water is pushed down on the engine side of the water tube. For simplicity my numbers below are the measurement of rise only. Cummins new 5.9 engine numbers are: 63 liters per minute(2.5" water rise) @ 2200rpm, 76 L/Min (3.5" rise) @ 2500rpm 85 L/Min (4.5" rise) @ 2800rpm. Worn engine that needs rebuilding are roughly double i.e. 126 L/Min(10.5"rise) @ 2200rpm 152 L/Min(14.5"rise) @ 2500rpm 170 L/Min(17"rise) @ 2800 rpm Beside indicating a compression problem the valves could also be out of adjustment. Another way (mine), same idea, is to block the blowby tube with a 1/2'' pipe nipple with a cap that has a 15/64 hole drilled in it. Use 3/8'' id looped clear tubing with water in it slipped over the oil dipstick tube. Other tubing end remains open. Use a sharp tipped felt marker to mark the water level with the engine off, have a helper start an already warmed up engine and run the rpms up to 2.2, 2.5 & 2.8k rpms. Mark each water level with the pen, measure the distance from engine off mark then multiply each by 2. This is all very simple to do, just hard to explain with words.

Now thats funny...

Even in the dodge FSM it notes that some ECM flashes do not bother with the inital burst of fuel pressure or the pump. But what is import in the starting pressure and the run pressure... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=NCJjMzRImpA Now... Wait till you run that tank out and load back up as a normal tank of fuel. I did the same thing trying to resolve a injector miss issues and guess what it all returned on the next fresh tank of fuel... So don't get you hopes up that injector cleaner resolve the problem in might come right back after the cleaner is gone... Reason being this occurs is because the injection cleaner is produce with either naptha or mineral spirits with have a VERY LOW flash point so now even if you have a bad spray pattern, weak pump, etc that littl extra boost in the flash point reducing will cause it to ignite easily (centane booster effect). So hence the problem goes away. But after you return back to normal fuel problem returns... So be aware of this...

The way to test it... Look at the front of the mirror passenger side you'll find a eye. Push the button upwards till lit (key ON) and then cover the eye in the front side of the mirror. The glass should start darkening even in daylight. When you remove your finger (or cover) it should resume back to clear glass... Great thing is the mirror works awesome with even 5% limo tint in the rear window! If you don't understand this test I get the camera out to shoot a bit of video...

Can't do it... The single T-couple only produces a small voltage. This voltage now would be shared by 2 devices causing the value to be incorrect and wrong. This is like running the stock ECT temp gauge and a Autometer gauge on the stock sender it will throw both out the window...

Sorry I guess the political discussions are gets a few people upset so I'm closing them out... (Sorry all)