Mopar1973Man

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Well right off the top the two that caught my eye is the Naptha and the Xylene which are both use for aromatics and cleaning solvents. Then the other problem is that the product is a cetane booster (or BTU reducer). You must remember anytime you increase cetane yo REDUCE BTU content of the fuel. Just like in winter here in Idaho diesel is about 50-55 Cetane and the BTU are dropped to about 126K BTU's (Just remember gasoline ias 125K BTU's). Then come summer when summer fuels are back the cetane number falls to about 43 here and the BTU content rises to about 134K BTU's... Now back to the Xylene is got a BTU content of a mere 18K BTU's and Naptha is right there at 22K BTU's. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/2-cycle-oil/cetane/cetane.htm so remember anything that claims cetane improvement with reduce the BTU content. But since Naptha and XyLene ignite really easy and early they tend to increase the knock of the engine (exploding with a punch) Where something with lower cetane value will burn long and push (quiet engine). So yes most will claim that cetane boost feel like more power but actually sacrificing MPG for power because it will require more fuel to create the same amount ofr BTU work.

Sound happy now... Funny how good fuel volume/pressure will change the attitude of a truck and owner...

100 miles to reset??? Thats odd... Mine rest in the first 100 feet...

According to Dorkweed it worth it... I think there is a thread about his install...

The only way to verify the sensor is functional is go to a Dealer that has the proper DRB III test equipment... OBD II won't tell you...

As for myself I've been using the Mopar Brand trans fluid but this go around I might look towards another brand that might work in place of... $23 to $27 a quart for Mopar's Trans Fluid and you need a 1 gallon (4 quarts) it sure does hurt...

No torque sequence seen in the book but the torque value is 13 Ft/Lbs for the pan... Then 35 In/Lbs for the filter screws. Hope that helps...

Check for power and data problems...

If you go out to the quarter mile tracks you'll find most Cummins trucks launching off the line in 4WD. The transfer case can typically handle the abuse. Like myself I do a lot of tree skidding and dragging in the summer time in 4WD. But as for drive axles , u-joints, drive shafts, Double Cardan Joints it beats the hell out them... Running 4WD in dry pavement... I've already broke 1 cardan joint, 1 driveshaft, and wore out a set of drive axle u-joint in under 30K miles when I bought my truck and then figure out the the limitations of the 4WD system. If your pulling straight and never turn your fine the stress is reduced. But if your pulling on dry ground and turning sharp... Oh Look Out! Your asking to break something... Even like climbing a mountain road with 4WD and its muddy. I got to go back to 2WD to prevent binding of the driveline on sharp switch backs because there isn't enough wheel slip... Why is the problem so noticable on a Cummins??? Think about is normal gasoline engines are what 500-600 pounds now the Cummins is 1,100 pounds DRY! Now add coolant, oil, etc... so on the scales I'm weighed out at... 7,300# = 4,400# front axle + 2,860# Rear Axle... Hmmm don't you think there is quite a bit of weight pinning those front tires down from slipping??? Now throw in 265/75 R16 or larger tires with agressive tread... This makes it even worse on the driveline... It is one of the few reasons I went back to 235/85R16 tire to allow more slipage of the front axle to allow for stress relief...

Check the fuel pump relay in the PDC if it fails it will trip a P1689... Here is a daignostic write up for VP44 error codes... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/vp44-replace/vp44-error.htm

Copper tubing is known for failure because of all the vibration they been know to break under the hood... As for my old line it last 6 years without much problems (unless I broke it off pushing on it) but the new stuff I'm using polyon air brake line is nearly instructable now... I've got a chunk on my desk I've been playing with folding and bending and it just doesn't fail... Remember the phrase... "Dodge makes it Cummins Shakes it!"

I don't think so... 225K miles is LOW miles really... you might want to talk to CajFlynn (closing in on 800K miles 2001) and then talk to Taz (630K miles on a 1992)... As for the sound of the engine most of them have quite a bit of clatter which is normal for most engines... As for the -.002 on the valves I know a few that done this and its still with spec so I'm rather sure there is no ill effects of being slightly tight.

Geez...

Yes sir... Directly plumbed to the back of the gauge for the last 6 years and never had a issues with it leaking in the cab... Still dont...

I normally just bleed the brakes at the wheels... But I've got a mayo jar setup with a vinyl tube going into it... So this allows my to bleed the system by myself. Now for getting air out I've just setup on the farthe wheel (rear right) and worked my way towards the shortest (left front). But now bleeding the system I would push down hard and quickly and let up slowly on the pedal. This action pushes the air bubble down the line with the fluid but keep it from sucking back up the line because of the slow return rate. Here is another write up... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/brakes/brakes.htm

It suggested not to do this... Because what is occuring is you slamming the syncros together and forcing the match the speeds under road loads. Must will report that syncro lifespan is shortened...

It doesn't hurt it... But it will keep the fuel system lubed up and retard wear of fuel system related parts. The few times I've used it on a 6.0L you won't notice a huge change but it should become more quiter and a bit smoother running...

Like on Taz's truck I pulled the turbo completely off and cleaned both side exhaust and compressor with brake cleaner then blow dried it with compresed air...

At any rate I would make sure you get all the information about it before you order it... Have them double check the information on it...

No it not sealed up... The fitting just unscrews out of the body... (return line fitting) As for warranty just remove the shim before returning for warranty work...

Correct... The Addon box or programmer alters the data and forces the new values apond the system but the ECM and VP44 are "powerless to change the data"... So in this light the SG II will work just fine because the fueling data and speed data can be calibrated too. Where the stock "Overhead Idiot" is fixed for stock tires, stock gearing, stock fueling, etc... So if you modify any of these things then the overhead idiot fails to report accurate data... Where the SG II can be re-calibrated to the new data...

My master cylinder was leaking internally bleeding pressure off back to the resivoir causing the clutch to re-engage at will... I never had a leak outwards to cause loss of fluid but the seals wore out internally and allow for the pressure to bleed off...

Edge Juice has the gauges and bunches of toyz (high idle, limits, cool down timer, etc.)... But I'm not certain that you could use most of them being its design for Dodge wiring... Where the only 3 connections on a Comp is the VP44, MAP and the CanBus...

OBDII is not required... Its the CANBUS that comes out of the ECM (Cummins protocol)