Mopar1973Man

Hey Dan you might want to look at my backup lights... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/backup-lights/backup-lights.htm These things are sweet... I got them anlged enough to to light up beyond the trailer I tow. (flatbed) 100w Aircraft landing light... There hooked to the back up light with a relay and power off the +12V trailer lead and then I got a force ON switch in the cab so I have light while hitching or unhitching a trailer...

Ok the MPG is the instant MPG number for that moment in time. I see number ranging from 0 MPG at WOT to 9999 at full coasting. This is normal. For my high mark numbers I try and keep the MPG number at about 25-30 MPG or higher. Then you notice the Todays number creeping up.. This will push the Total up but slowly. As for the AVG MPG and Total Fuel Cost you got to setup the XGauge in the SGII. Now when you setup you should setup both Today's MPG and Total MPG gauges so you can see how todays travels effect the total MPG number. When your build the gauges in XGauge you have the choice of labels (3 character labels) so go back and check and see what your labels are... I normally take the extra time and use 1 Capatial letter and 2 lower case to show XGauges that way they don't get lost in the pile. Sorry I missed out on your thread I've been out for 2 days working and travel to Lewiston, ID for my RV275 Injectors but I'm back..

I love it! Another good Al Gore pic for the site... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=175&stc=1&d=1263050845 Then... Check you local news and look at Florida and see they are seeing some really cold temps....:eek:

They weren't absolutely prefectly mactched but there all popped at about the same pressure and they were good. From what I watched on the gauge they were popping open on his gauge at about 27 KPa if I read it right.

Either are good just remember to get a needle vave for either on you get to protect it from water hammering...

Comments in blue...

There wasn't any problem... It was all human error... Somewhere down the line I mis-installed one and created the problem. :confused: He figures I did get the connector tube seated properly and create a fuel leak or such... So I followed his tips and went good and fast... Well I learned a lot from this I will be updating the injector install page again with more tidbits of information soon...

No joke... I just can seem to understand why it took me so long to figure that out...:rolleyes2:

That's like Mom's 96 Dodge 5.9L gasser it weights only 5,500# and gets 14 MPG compared to my Cummins at 8,000# that gets closer to 21-22 MPG... No contest... But with winter fuel 17-18 MPG is about normal...:rolleyes2:

Buy watching this poll go... It surprising that I really got quite the mix bag of ages coming here... I'm glad to see the older folks coming to the site... I've seen a poll over at Cummins Forum which turn into a majority of puppies... <25 Years old...:eek:

Done a valve adjustment??? :confused:

Well gang... It completeled I now have to update my signature... I took the injectors to Idaho Diesel Tech in Lewiston and had them pop tested. Well I was meet with quite the shock when I got there. The guy was really super cool about it and told me to follow him. Well back in the shop he setup the jug for pop testing and put them in a cabnet. Couple of pump on the handle and POP! Nice pretty spray pattern appeared. He said "If you would like to see what it looks like run here - CLICK!" He flipped a switch and a electric pump kicks in and shows you a pretty mist pattern and the pulses. I make a long story short he explain the basic functions of a injection and some of the different style of injector. Them he hands me a book... It got even type of fuel system in it explained... Then he was nice enough to write down the book info so I could buy one... OMG! This has to be the best shop in Idaho! Killer people... Needless to say all injectors were pop tested for FREE and I got a FREE bottle of stanadyne additive then he explain my mistake to me and how to do it really fast install..Well needless to say nothing was wrong with the injectors and there now installed in under 2 hours! :shocked2: Can wait when I go to work tomorrow to see the smoke if any...:coal:

Could of use some plywood, plastic or aluminum to make them... Cardboard will eventually fall apart... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/winter-fronts/winter-front.htm

Stock is rated for about 400 HP at the flywheel... SB Con OFE is rated for abot 450-500 at the flywheel...

I got a false deck in my bed of my truck that has a utility drawer under it. Beside the drawer I got 2 hollows that I keep chains on 1 side and 2 cycle oil on the other. So I keep a 1 gallon jug and old quart bootle to measue with.

Boy... That looks good for a mod! Thanks for the wonderful write up... You might want to talk to Taz about this he want to convert his 1 ton to 4 wheels...

:agree: You could even use 2 cycle oil at 200:1 ratio to prtoect it better...

Like Racer-Dan found out he replaced his stock with another stock assuming the stock pump would be fine for stock setup... There is a post here with 12 PSI at idle and dropping to 7-8 PSI WOT... So I highly suggest oyu get a gauge soon...

I would go over to the vendor forum and post up and ask the local vendors to see what they got. Or venture over to the social groups ans see what they have for store fronts... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/forumdisplay.php?f=67 or... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/group.php

Another valid one... I had my rear caliper bind up there pistons...:eek:

I would just do a fluid change and flush the system... I normally would disconnect 1 return line and route it to a waste bucket. Then cap the nipple on the pump. Then fill it up full. At this point thing happen rapidily... I would start the engine and rock the steering wheel left to right lightly enough to open the power valve. It will take only a few seconds to pump dry. SHUTDOWN at this point. Load back up with fresh fluid (synthetic if you wish). Then do this again 2 more times pushing all the dirty fluid out. Then once the return look cleaner then hook up the hose as normal and fill and purge the air out of the system. Normally never bother with synthetic fluids because of cost reasons. But the thing is I rarely have issues with power steering system because I change it regularly like I said above. Power Steering fluid should be change once a year or every 30K miles which every comes first... Remember that fluid lubricates the steering box, pump, and Hydro-booster. Also there is NO FILTER in this system so if debris enters the system by part failure or by human means the debris will be pushed through the system.

So very true...:thumbsup:

Remember you don't get the 3 cylinder high idle with the quadzilla... this where the serious heat is created and will warm up a engine rapidly on a super cold day. Where high idle itself does help but doesn't create enough virtual loading to create heat... Here is a simple temp I clipped from the High idle page to show the differeences... This is cold start with approximately 25*F-30*F outside temperature and the loading was measure with a ScanGauge II.

I'm running a Southbend Con OFE single disk clutch without a problem with Edge Comp on 5x5 and Rv275 injectors (when they were installed). The tires broke loose before the clutch did. That another nice factor to having 235/85 R16 better fuel mileage but easier to break loose and over sized clutches not required!

Fuel that are high cetane tend to produce extremely low MPG's. This tank of fuel is doing this try running out this tank and buy fuel from some where else...