Mopar1973Man

Thank you Babe... B) Same back to ya... Happy Valentines day too... ;)

Very simple PnP product... Just plug into the OBD II port under the dash and let it connect to the PCM and your done. Now all you got to do is follow the menu. More information here... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/scangauge2/scangauge2.htm

I feel sorry for the mech that got to fix that car.... Ewwwwwwww! 8|

Her you go gang... In all my hard searching I found service manual for both 1st Gen and 2nd Gen 12V trucks... http://rapidshare.com/users/49NHRE Password: 4bt Get it while you can...

Ewwwwwwww....

LOL I know the feeling... I step off the deck I'm about waist deep in snow... Poor dog.. (Diesel) he got to jump to get through the snow...

not exactly cut and paste but you could in your own words post it back up again... If you have to link back to that site for reference... :thumbsup

You might want to look at you brake fluid too. If the brake fluid is rather dark colored its time to bleed and fill the system again.... Usually right around 30K miles. As for rear drum Dorkweed is right on the money. But if you have a drum that won't come off or stuck... You can jack up both sides and jackstand it. Then remove both tires. Then thread the lug nut back on. Enough so the nuts don't spin off nor the drum. Then start truck and put it in gear. Get a little bit of roll (10-15 MPH) and stomp on the brakes. This will usually get the drums off if there stuck...

As long as the oils rating complies with the truck it shouldn't matter... Remember there is a difference from GASSER oil to DIESEL oil ratings too... Like out here in Idaho you got to look on the bottle for the CI-4 or CJ-4 rating... Most gasser oil is a SF (or similar)

Ok I converted it to standard links at least for you... Boy I got to admit that is a huge difference from my little 51 Willy's WOW! Now do you know of someone with some 1951 springs??? I need a set like badly... :rolleyes

Now that's TMI (Too Much Information)... LOL :rolleyes

I put a t 640x640 limit on images so it would screw with the screen... This way you don't have to pan left to right... But you can resize your photobucket pics to 640x480 to correct this problem...

Got you beat the Dorkweed... LOL Here is some of my 2008 winter pics... http://s143.photobucket.com/albums/r123 ... %20Winter/ I've got roughly 3 feet of snow here and its still snowing... :D

Well here you go Dorkweed... http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r123 ... CF2524.jpg http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r123 ... CF2525.jpg http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r123 ... CF2530.jpg http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r123 ... CF2531.jpg http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r123 ... CF2532.jpg http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r123 ... CF2521.jpg

Hmmm... I would love to see how it turns out... I'm going to be looking for a clutch here soon. I know my time is getting rather limited. I've slipped mine quite a few time pulling logs and just screwing around... So I know my time is short...But post some pixs of your install and I love to here about the improvements... :thumbsup

You can adjust there but it can be rather difficult to reach the C clip on the wastegate tab. Then when you pop the rod off it will take a act of congress to put in back together... I've seen it done with a pressized air to control the wastegate shaft to get it back together...

Well Taz...I'm on my way of trying to find you a rear end for you Ram Charger. So far I check in the state of Idaho and didn't find anything on the network. I've got a few people looking across the US... :thumbsup

Yeap it works for all Dodge vehicles 1996 and up... I've tested it on a 92 Dodge Cummins and it applies believe it or not. But I've used this list on a Jeep as well. So any Dodge prduct should work if it only got the CEL light.

I have no idea... :confused: But if your worried about it I would run 1 full tank of fuel through it before going to the testing.

Hey gang... I got the flash codes for the older truck here now. You can still do the key trick and get your DTC by flash code on the CEL lamp... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/1996%20Do ... _codes.htm

Well gang... I've been working on a P0306 error code for awhile now and I think I figured it out... After going through anf replacing all igniton parts (sparkplug, plug wires, cap and rotor) then replacing #6 injector... Done a compression test and all cylinders are 125-135 PSI... Good solid vacuum... Steady! What I figured out was the PCV is hooked up the the manifold near #6 the PCV valve was faulty and wasn't controlling vacuum properly. So when the valve would stick open it would foul the fuel mixture on #6 cylinder causing a slight drop in RPM's when it fired the weak mixture which was enough to trip the CEL (Check engine light) with the error code P0306. So know I'm watching and wait with my ScanGauge II to see any error code or other problems come... Error Codes http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/error-codes/error-codes.htm ScanGauge II http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/scangauge2/scangauge2.htm

Well we got a new addition to the family... Meet diesel! 3 Month old dobberman puppy... :thumbsup My new truck companion and security! B)

Glad to see the idea works for you... I've see this idea with wood, plastic, metal, and aluminum... Just about anything you can cut out and place in the grill holes...I'd love to see some pics of your finished product though...

Thank you Keydl... You covered my bases again! Thumbs up to you! :thumbsup I really do need to buy you a beer! As for the results of the HFRR testing done by DieselPlace.com is here... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/2-cycle-oil/hfrr/hfrr.htm

They are connecting rods... They connect the piston to the crank. These have to withstand the pounding of the massive horsepower that a Cummins has! :thumbsup