Mopar1973Man

Well...The imfamous P0216 error code popped... Well the VP44 is wearing out and the timing cam is sticking internally. So basically it will continue to run and function but the power and MPG will start to slide. It like driving a gas engine without timing advancement weights... Doggy... The other thing you'll start to see is the white smoke in the mornings... It gets worse... :wow

Like myself...I've got 3 vehicles to play with that are evenly matched...1976 Dodge Motorhome, 360 CID / 5.9L Gasoline V8, Gross weight 8,500 gets about 11-12 MPG (Not very areodynamic)1996 Dodge 1500 360 CID / 5.9L Gasoline V8, Gross Weight 5,500 gets about 13-14 MPG, (Better areodynamics and lighter)2002 Dodge 2500 Cummins 360 / 5.9L diesel I6, Gross weight 7,900 gets about 17-23 MPG, (Heavy but the same areodynamics as the 1996)Not even my Goldwing passed the 50 MPG mark often... LOL So I know that that site is a fake... ;)

All I would need is 3 million... 1 million to pay for my current debts...1 million to play with...1 million to start over with...Dreamin'... At least that is free... :thumbsup

Ok... Here is the draw on the batteries... WAIT TO START -> Grid heaters 190 Amps... STARTING -> Starter 500-700 Amps POST HEAT -> Grid heater could draw anothe 90-190 Amps for 3-5 minutes after running. Maybe that why I unplugged my grid heaters... LOL My weather is light enough now that I can start up on a cold morning easy without grid heaters (15*F outside is my lowest). So the only load I got is the starting of the truck. So battery recovery time is shorten a lot! ;) My typical cold start lately is about 30*F to 40*F without grid heaters. As for starting there seems to be a problem there... You might think about changing the starter contacts. They get wore out and weak and it takes even more to get it to twist on weak contacts. There really cheap. Fuel Pressure is weak though... 10 PSI is the lower limit... It the stock plumbing that is keeping the pressure low... As for starting problems you might try this too... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/voltage-drop/voltage-drop.htm

Hmmm... I think about 2 years now...

The best way I figured out how to loosen the bleeder screws...1. Spray with lubricant of some sort and let soak.2. Use a proper 6 sided socket that fits the bleeder screw.3. Hit the ratchet with a hammer to loosen.Now to prevent this form happening again is simple. When you tighten the screws just snug them. They don't require serious torquing.Make sure the rubber cover is put over the nipple of the bleeder screw...Oh you don't have one. Easy way to make some. Get some vinyl tubing that fits the bleeder screw snug. Then cut it about 1 inch long. Take a cigarrette lighter and heat one end of the tubing. Once hot a the vinyl is seriously soft take a pair of pilers and squeeze the soft vinyl tubing to close. Now you have a fresh bleeder screw boot. The reason you need then is the water gets in the screws and rusts them out from the inside. (Threads...)

No change here yet... :confused

Personally I like the twin stacks... :thumbsup Singles are easy to do just pop a hole in the floor of the bed and elbow up... LOL But I would put the extra money out and do twins... Now my problem is I never did like the idea of the plumbing in the bed I wish there was a way to plumb under the truck so you had only the pipe coming straight up in the bed. Now other considerations is the sound. The noise level will increase from what I heard. You'll have more exhaust noise and drone problems... Take a ride in someone truck with stacks to get a feel for it... ;)

Agreed... Like the eye opener I got is Taz (member here) he's got a 92 Dodge Cummins with 600K+ miles on it. That truck life has been solely on Chevron Delo 15W-40. It only got 1 minor leak around the tappet cover. Other than that that truck gives me a run for the money. Still runs strong. So it all reallity Most good manufactures of oil will work just fine. But like Live Oak mention the price of syn's are just too high for some of us. I like at it from a simple stand point.. Petroluem is inexpensive and you can change it more often for the same price as syn's. But I know because of the often oil change I'm removing debris from the oil supply. Where with extended drain internval of syn's you have to test for your debris factor to keep extending. But with my current setup of Exxon 15W-40 and a Frantz Bypass filter (change every 3K) and I'm changing at 9-10K miles. I figure I'm doing quit well.

I think you could do a raptor from AirDog from about the same price... :confused:

Here check out a few dealer I've got listed... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/dealers/dealers.htm Then here is how to replace it... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/vp44-replace/vp44-replace.htm I'm one of the lucky few... I've been using 2 cycle oil and now going to clear 100K miles on my VP44...

Not to bad... About 4-5 PSI drop bout holding 15 at WOT is really good... :thumbsup

I had one morning of 13*F above zero. The ol' Cummins was very happy about waking up at 13*F but on the 3rd try she fired up and smoothed out in a matter of a few seconds... :thumbsup

Can I ask what kind of pressure range are you seeing??? :confused:

Yeap... The VP44 is running down death row... P0216 -error code is a wear error. It cause from lack of fuel pressure. What has happen is the advancement piston is wearing out and is starting to bind up and not advance timing as needed. So white smoke, hard starting will start occuring. Your MPG's will start to slide. It not going to get better... Sorry... You might want to read over this... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php?do=file&id=1 http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/2-cycle-oil/hfrr/hfrr.htm then... It might help... :confused: But it won't fix it... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/2-cycle-oil/2-cycle-oil.htm

Hmmm... I wish here... Diesel - $2.289Gas - $1.979Close but no cigar... `

About a $170 if I remember right... And replacement filter are in your bathroom... (Toilet paper!) LOL http://www.wefilterit.com 2422 12th Avenue Rd. #148 Nampa, ID 83686-6300 1-208-467-3726 Office Hours: Monday-Friday 9:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. (Mountain Time Zone) Deborah Walker Harley President E-Mail Address DWalkerHarley@WeFilterIt.com

I update my APPS sensor page to include a waning about voltage adjustment. There is a lot of people saying to adjust the voltage. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/apps/apps.htm

Well being gold is near $1,000 a ounce it would take much I don't think... :confused:

Well here is where I normally start out with... Error codes... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/obd2-error-codes/obd2-error-codes.htm Fuel pressure... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/lift-pump-diag/lift-pump-diag.htm Fuel pressure should be above 10 PSI at all times. As for dead pedal problems there is only 2 causes of it. * Dead or dieing APPS sensor. Typically the P0121, P0122, or P0123 is present. APPS sensors will alway throw a code if the the true cause. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/apps/apps.htm * Dead or Dieing VP44. Typically a VP44 will NOT throw codes to a dead pedal problem but if it does it could be P1688, P0216, or a few others...

Here is something to make you want to pick up pennys of the sidewalk... 8| :wow 8| :wow http://www.kokogiak.com/megapenny/

We all hewre the Gov't talking about Millions, billions, and even trillions of dollars well here is what it look like... 8| :wow 8| :wow http://www.pagetutor.com/trillion/index.html

It total different depending on the IAT temp sensed at the manifold. The colder it is in the manifold the longer the grid heater will stay on. So there is no set time for how long they run. The IAT sensor will deside if the grid heater are needed because of low manifold temps. Like if I fire mine up on a cold morning I notice the if it idles the grid heater stay off more. But give it some throttle and grid heater are popping on and off more often. But to reverse this turn my exhaust brake on and the grid heater will nearly stay off.

What is your current fuel pressure??? There is the SPECS for the 3rd Gen CR engine... Knocks and rattles could be caused by air leaks, low fuel pressures, etc... :confused: Any error codes??? :confused:

Typically its the speed sensors. There is 2 sensors in the front axle and 1 in the rear axle. If you speedometer is working normally I bet money its one of the front axle sensors. Remember the speed shown by the sensors MUST all match at highway speeds. So if a sensor is lazy to respond and remains at 0 while the rest come up then the ABS and BRAKE likes will be tripped because of a speed sensor error. You might have error codes too... As for the brake fluid if the fluid is dark in the resevoir you must flush the system. You might have to dis-assemble the calipers and wheel cylinder to remove the debris and water in the bottom of the cylinders. Remember the bled screw are on top and the water debris settle ot the bottom of the cylinders. No wonder the always rust on the bottom... Bad news... Wasted brake fluid... Normal brake fluid...