Mopar1973Man

Yes. Absolutely correct. Actually I'm running about 20 to 21 degrees at 2k RPM. I've ran as high as 23 degrees. Now as for gearing I'm 3.55 in both axles and running 245/75 R16 tires which brings the final ratio to 3.69:1 to the ground. Then my injectors are popped at 320 bar which makes them late so I must run higher timing in a cruise state to make up for the late injection event. The net result is better MPG and power. Fuel map wise on the Quadzilla I choose from 0 to 5 a defuel zone for launching. Then 5 to 15 PSI the fuel map is stock 100%. Now from 15 to 30+ fuel map both the wire tap and the CANBus ramp up together making some serious power up from there.

Here what I mean on the tach. 65 mph. Then idling at lunch time with a/c on.

Personally I'd love to put a 5 speed in my 2006. Even with 3.73 gear you need to row 5 gears (1:1 direct) to get 25 MPH. I might change my mind after towing a trailer but lot of hand shaking in a town with 25 mph speed limit. Ugh.

It's true. Hx35/40 hybrid turbo (60/60/12) and +150HP DAP injectors (7 x 0.010) popped at 320 bar. Then the Quadzilla no issues it runs strong and smoke free. I do get a puff but clears up super fast.

2002 I finally had a driver side door lock fail me. I pull all the locks (passenger and driver) then the ignition lock and took them to George's Lock and Key in Lewiston ID and had them gone through. I've got the locks back in the truck and the linkage in the door was getting stiff from all the years. I power washed the inside of the doors and the latch assemble and lubed it up really well with silicone spray. Now I'm just waiting for a bit of extra funds I'm going to buy a new set of speakers for the front doors and a bag of door panel fasteners. Reassemble for the last time. I've pulled the panels off for window motor (passenger side), then added towing mirrors (Both sides came off), now the door lock issue with both sides off. I just want to put it back together for good. Still fun to drive but not comfortable resting you arm on hot sheet metal. As for the lock on the driver side somehow one of the wafers in the driver side lock got bent. It bent the holder just enough that even a new wafer didn't work so it was omitted from the drivers side lock and now it functions just fine. I've got a new fuel tank sender entire unit from DAP. I've got to find some time to pull the tank and install the new sender. I know its not fun but not hard either. I started gather up the filters for both trucks and getting a bit of free time to change fluids in both.

Well since I made the move to process to purchase the 2006 Dodge from the bank... New injectors +50 HP New Valair dual disc quiet towing clutch New Front unit bearings New crank sensor New Intake air sensor (crush it don't ask) New valve cover gasket (o-ring) It getting more and more reliable for driving back on forth to work. I'm looking to getting tires soon since the passenger side front is slow leaking and the rubber is getting weather checked after sitting for at least 3 years. I've got 275/70 R18 on it right now. I've got 3.73 gears I'm thinking of going up to a 285/70 R18 to bring the tach down a bit more. I'm not sure I can even trust the tach info yet being it some time shows me idling at 300 RPM and other times at 800 RPM. I'm starting to think there could be a AC noise issue with the alternator. I've got electrical to do on the bed and tail light yet its still just cobbled together for now. I need to wire in the goose neck plug and the bumper plug for 7 pin. Since I bought the tool boxes I've been adding more and more weight to the truck. Just like yesterday I spent $100 on rear axle sockets for pulling nuts on the bearings. So I want to gear this truck just about like what I did with the 2002. I wanna be around 1,800 to 2,000 at 65 MPH. Doesn't take me long in a day to put on a few hundred miles. Has anyone pulled a HVAC box out of a 3rd gen before? I know I've got to look at mine being some of the stepper motors are cycling and having trouble moving doors. I know the evaporator is partial plugged up with caked dust air flow is poor. As for doing the wheel joints. Way easier way is you cut the trunion out with a torch. Now the bearing arms fall out and you can drive each bearing cup inward on all of them. Moving one cup at a time vs pressing two cup back and forth is a pain in the . Took me all of about 10 minutes to cut the trunion and then drive the caps inward. Used a hone brush to clean the holes up a bit and pressed the new u-joints in. Yup the shaft on the passenger side was just needing more force to pull out. Been in a long time I guess.

Absolutely correct about fender flares. It does promote rotting of the fender metals.

Right on I didn't know this was available. Cool! thanks for the info I'll keep that in mind!

I will admit... 2006 seats are way more comfortable than the older 2nd gen seats. Even with the driver seat with a hole on my left hip and sitting partially on the steel frame of the seat. Still more comfortable than the 2nd gen.

If its got A/C and you want to run every thing... Typically most smaller RVs are 30A service at 120VAC. 120 VAC x 30A = 3,600 Watts (4kw with room for start up of the A/C) So I would look for 4kw generator this would cover everything including A/C. Like myself I've got a cheap 2kw generator it will power everything but A/C, water heater or the microwave. As for doing solar I went even smaller and used a 1,200 watt inverter and 45w worth of solar panels and now presto... No noise of a running generator. Again not enough to do much but TV , cell phones, etc.

Weird looking snubber... I never used one like that.

Try a 5A fuse first it might work fine. Better protection.

Just like my 2006 its a SRW 1 ton.

Big mistake some do is grab the quickie R134a freon with the little gauge and hose. Do be aware those have oil in the can. Being I've done this too... after awhile the oil builds up using those can and it was nearly locking up and screeching the fan belt. I end up taking the entire system apart and did new o-rings. Blew all the oil out. Pulled the compressor and drained it. Our system only needs 5 ozs of PAG 100 oil. Sad to say I drain out more than 5 ozs. Oh make sure to drain the accumulator it most likely has a few more ozs than normal. It should be empty as like brand new. But that's my answer...

Especially with a exhaust brake. The 2006 has a turbo mounted BD brake and it air driven so that one clamps down really well and unwinds the truck super quick. I get honked at, pass by with the middle finger scream your tails don't work, etc.

AC noise. What did you measure before at the alternator BATT post and after the W-T mod?

Low quality tablet are that way. I bought one for $40 bucks. I've still got it. Too old of OS and the iQuad app will run but it will not draw the needles on the gauges. Mine the battery only last like 30 minutes to 1 hour and its dead.

Too much oil in the system. Really common for guys that use the Walmart big can.

Not really a fools errand... Just consider I started my first business of "Cloud !0 Computer" after graduating from ITT Tech (Van Nuys, CA). I ran that business till 2008. When the market crashed it had a huge impact. By that time the website and the amount of diesel work I was doing was better option. So I put the extra effort and crated the business name of "Mopar1973Man.Com" for shop work. As for the "Cloud 10 Computers" I left it behind but hold the name still. I could bring it back with all my Linux Knowledge and Server Setups. In the meantime the Mopar1973Man shop side has been doing very well. In all the years... There is a bunch of part time or oddball jobs. Images in glass and mirror (Hung mirrors in Eddie Van Halen's House!) Motorcycle body work Montgomery Wards (Tires and batteries) Cable assembly Auto body Car stereo installer Restaurant "dish pit" Computers (Windows) and Internet setup (Cloud 10 Computers) Managed Steelhead Inn (Motel) Shop mechanic (Mopar1973Man.Com) Linux Server Admin (Mopar1973Man.Com)

Kind of like I threw out the Dodge FSM and went against everyone and using Mobil 50 SAE Transmission Fluid in my NV4500. Way better lube than factory fluid and cost much less even for 5 Gallons. It is a GL-4 transmission lube and has zero impact on shift quality. This is the very same transmission lube used in Eaton Fuller 10 speed transmissions. Very heavy duty transmission lube.

All I can say is try again. See if the problem is repeatable.

Wasn't sure. Like myself I've got no security either. Still in all be aware than VIN number might come back to cause system bugs. Rare but does happen.

Can you show us a screen shot or a photo of the page of this clip and where?

At any rate the CTM you choice from where ever... You going to need to have them flashed and proper VIN number flash to it. Being the PCM and CTM both handle security features.

Even on 24V injectors you cannot just swap nozzles on those either. Still require to be pop tested and flow matched. I look at it this way do it right the first there will not be a second time...