Mopar1973Man

For someone on a strict schedule timers work great but someone like me I might be at home for 3 to 4 days and never leave. Then at a random time like last week at about 3pm run out and to a rescue repair for a gal that lost here driveshaft. Still cold up here but using block heater for me would be very wasteful. I would have to leave it plugged in all the time. So 3 CYL high idle fills this gap much better and give me heat in under 5 to 6 minutes. No long waits for block heater to work and wasted electricity with 15 MPH wind blowing under the truck. I can get instant heat no issue. I'm not dependent on a electric plug for a block heater. Like @Jthorfound out he's 7.3L Ford hates cold air and the glow plugs are not enough. I got his started without the block heater more our less by using a propane torch and warmed up the manifold tubing and it lit right off. No problem. His warms up pretty good just idling. Yeah we had a few days of near ZERO weather here now back to 31°F again.

Start your 1,500 at 13° then come up equal amount of steps. Like Typically I build around about +4 step. 13, 17, 21, 25. Even I've been playing with +5 step. 13, 18, 23, 28. wider bandwidth of timing. In compare to your tming... Not to mention staring out too hot in the 1,500 realm should back down for getting turbo spooled faster. Even mine reaches the same final goal evenly. 15.8 17.8 --- +2 Step 21 ------ +3.2 step 25 ------ +4 Step

Less than a few inches left been raining today.

You be better off shifting to neutral which should be lower engine load which means less fuel used. I typically idle at 6 to 7% engine load fully warmed. Manual though. Keep in mind autos have the torque converter load. Just consider my 65 MPH engine load is 19% to 21%.

No need just watch the engine load number. Engine load is the same as the fuel commanded number. Fuel commanded is from 0 to 4095 Engine load is from 0 to 100% Lower the number displayed the LESS fuel being injected.

As long as your moving the high idle will not start. I mean with your foot on the throttle. Once you stop and idle foe 30 second it will start. As for comparing to stock is meaningless. Being most of us are not running stock injectors. So now you have to base it on engine load values on flat ground at speed. If you go the wrong way (advanced or retard) is will increase engine load. When you find the happy spot it will be the lowest cruise engine load.

Again just turn off the feature. Then just don't use level ZERO. High idle can only be started in level ZERO. Shown in above post! Delay set high 60 seconds. Then set the Warmup mode low like 140*F. Then do not use level ZERO again it the mode required to start high idle. Me... There is nothing on level ZERO its stock ECM and no timing or fuel maps. Use level 2 or 3 at least then your at least running timing on a stock map fuel (lvl 2), or CANBus enhanced fuel (lvl 3)

For me to change a VP44 my average time is roughly 1.5 hours period.

I can. I can use every bit of power. I've got a bit of haze till the turbo spools a bit 1 to 2 seconds and then is clean burning the full way to 100+ MPH. My design is with mine set with 100% wire tap and the way my fuel is mapped out. Right now I have traction problems with just level 2 (stock fuel with timing) or level 3 (CANBus and timing). I can pull the tires loose just standing on it with winter conditions like either wet pavement or icy. Small trick I did is between 5 to 15 PSI I'm just flat stock power (100%) this was put there for normal driving without having to change levels constantly... Now above 15 PSI my wire tap and CANBus ramp up together making for some serious pulling power my 245's just don't have the hold power but 245's gives my that great final ratio of 3.69:1 so acceleration is much faster now. I would have to find a wider 30" tire to keep this thing planted and add traction bars. More or less just a haze at the get go and cleans right up and haul down the road. Even my trip to Arizona I ran my tow tune wide open the whole way still with 17,300 pounds of truck and trailer still did 14.3 MPG. No problem pulling grades and EGT's never past 1,000 to 1,100°F with the cruise set for 65 MPH pulling 7% grade in Nevada. Now if I had my old 235's on the EGT's would of been through the roof. Proper ratio to the ground does reduce EGT's quite a bit. Currently 429k miles...

Take notice the two switch for High idle Delay and the Warmup Mode are both set to OFF! Just toggle the switch OFF on both the High idle delay and the Warm Up mode to OFF. Then set your power level to something NOT level ZERO. The only time it can change the level is is the warm up mode is ON. Now at start up time if the engine is BELOW your set temperature like you see 140°F on my display so it would then set level ZERO and then start the timer and count till it reaches high idle delay setting time 30 second elapse then the high will be enabled at that time. For high idle to pop instantly after selecting ZERO level tells me the delay setting is set for ZERO seconds and instantly turning on. The other one is being you have the warm up mode still on then the high idle will come on any time you select level ZERO. Even with my setup I can turn back on both. Take close attention now both are back on. No need to mess with the values of both the setting just toggle them ON or OFF. Now set up this way with both on. Now if I select level ZERO I got high idle after selecting power level ZERO. I can ramp up the engine speed for jump starting, keeping the cab warm while sitting still long lights or waits. This is normal operation.

As for the front axle I would look at all the drag link, track bar, ball joint and tie rod ends. Like yesterday I had a neighbor call me up and complain about loose steering. Got down there and adjusted the steering box a bit. (1 full turn in). Still super sloppy like 1/2 turn of the steering wheel. So I proceeded to roll down the window and rock the steering standing out side and looking through the fender. The track bar was good but the drag link was just belling back and forth looking closer the nut for the drag link was hanging by 3 threads. Grabbed a 7/8 wrench and tighten till I couldn't no more. (Non-castle nut series). Then check the steering again much better I took some turn off the steering box and tighten everything up again. Had the own test again more a for normal steering and slack. I could of added back in some adjustment for the sector adjustment but he was much happier. Job time took less than 10 minutes laying in the ice and snow a with about 10-12 MPH wind blowing on me. What I'm getting at is get a friend to rock the wheel and look for looks stuff starting at the steering shaft coming out of the truck to the steering box and follow to the right hand tire then back to the left hand tire. Check each joint separately. 99.9% of the time its worn suspension parts or loose parts. Even on my truck last weekend change a track bar after noticing the steering in my truck was getting kinda wider sawing back and forth. Same deal stood at the driver door reached in looking through the fender and seen the end of the track bar moving up and down on the ball stud. Replacement time. Now might is tight like brand new like the day I drove off the showroom floor with my truck. (Odometer 43 miles in Oct, 26 2002) Actually more improved being I've got a quick ratio Blue top Steering box. Side note... It was Sunday... I quite literally started at home dropped @Wet Vetteoff at Davis Family place she wanted to do woman things. (Baking). Went next door to Mark's place and he needed my coolant pressure tested. Ran back home grab the tester, Then came back test his truck and found at least 2 coolant leaks easy fix. Left there continue to walk across yards to George place and did the steering box. Then finally got back to Davis family place and Sean got home and high jacked me to help with snow removal project in McCall. Long day but managed ot fix two vehicles with a rack of wrenches and a lot of tolerance for cold blowing wind and laying in the ice. Sucks but gotta be done.

Basically you need a good health drop of timing when you excess your cruise timing and the drop back to load based timing. On my truck running empty I can run 1° Max Load timing offset but if I towing I typically opt for 3° Max Load Timing Offset This keeps the timing ramped up for my empty economy but when towing you need a deeper retard. I played with the setting on my RV travels to Arizona. Bigger the towed loads more you need the 3° drop. This build boost quickly helping the truck climb over hills and such ill the load levels out and reaches back for cruise timing.

No spring and ball on the 2 line pumps just a spring load check valve. That's why I said to cycle out the regulator so it frees up the regulator valve. Typically returns to the inlet side.

A little trick run the pressure regulator all the way out till it near zero. Then run in back in again. Some time the adjustable regulators stick internally. When you adjust it out you moving the assembly inside and moving the spring nad everything. Now when you reset you might see more stable pressure. I had @JAG1do this trick and it cured his Raptor of this problem. Being that both FASS and AirDog are father and son battle the designs are very similar. Like @Dieselfuture has the style I've got with my AirDog 165 pump. Spring and check ball common store item with Vulcan being he makes most of the parts for AirDog. I just a few washers to adjust my pressure. Tighten the spring and the ball stays closed a bit longer before pushing open on the return line. Stable 15 to 17 PSI for years!

Is your ground hooked up in the fuse box as well? No my fender at the hood hinge. No need for running to the battery I've got roughly a 0.003 (3mV Drop) from body to battery ground. Very acceptable for ground purpose.

Tappet cover is the most common and easiest gasket to blow out. I'll tell you it MUCH easier taking the extra time to remove the injection pump to do the job right.

Couldn't tell ya... I'm part of the "Quadzilla Beta Test Team" so no cost to me. I've already got to play with new stuff for the Quadzilla coming soon.

Read you codes with OBDII coder reader. P0500 is just speed sensor performance (rear axle). P1693 is a companion module code (flag). ABS does not report any codes on the OBDII plug unless you have the DRBIII tool or similar. Typically you should be able to then OFF the Warm Up mode then Turn OFF the High idle Delay. Then Level zero is just stock. You should really need level zero only for warm up. I typically level mine stat for Level 2 or 3. Now my warm up mode is set for 140*F. Then my delay is 30 seconds. After the coolant reaches 140 the Quadzilla flips from level ZERO to Levle 2 or 3 which I have set. You can see exactly how to disable the high idle here. Warm Up mode is switched off. High idle delay is switched OFF. Now select a power level other than ZERO. High idle will not start ever. Now if you have the Cummins ECM high idle enabled it will start regardless of what you set on the Quadzilla. I've got both systems. Cummins ECM High Idle Quadzilla High Idle Now the ECM high idle there is no way to stop it from starting. It's triggered by the ECT and IAT temperatures. ECT has to be below !40*F and IAT has to be below 32*F with the grid heater ON! Then the Cummins ECM will start 6 cylinder high idle. If the IAT falls to below +15*F it will switch over to 3 cylinder node high idle which warms up much faster. Faster than Quadzilla can.

Last 8 years I've owned mine I've never disconnected before jumping my truck or another truck. Never had any problem till a while back I found my ground wire come loose at the bolt I had it on create a huge problem with engine performance (studdering, low power, CEL light, etc.). I had Quadzilla replace my moduel it but to find out the problem was a loose ground. So technically I've never really had a Quadzilla fail yet. I even reported this back to Quadzilla because it was such a weird case. Now we all know to double check that ground wire. Being we were constantly checking +12V and Keyed +12V.

Yup need to do a voltage drop test of the main cables. Bad starter contacts can do the same thing. You'll hear the pinion pop out but no starter spin. Bad starter solenoid fuse will do the same thing click and nothing. Engine oil protects the terminals from corroding at all. 18 year old truck and the battery terminals are near new yet. DRIVER SIDE PASSENGER SIDE

That's what weird... Now you got me scratching my head be cause no main computers (ECM or PCM) use body grounds. (G100) ECM is grounded on G125 PCM is grounded on G123 G100 shown below.

Naturally happens over the life a a battery they do not hold a perfect 800 or 850 CCA every day for ever. The slowly weaken that CCA number slow grows smaller. By the time I replace my battery they are most likely like 400 CCA (Total of 800 CCA for the pair) still starts and runs but if you needed that extended time to crank in cold weather, not happening. Heck these batteries are already a year old now and I'm sure there are no longer 810 CCA a piece maybe more like 790-800 CCA a piece as the batteries age.

Typically the PCM is in control of the lockup issue and it ground is the passenger battery terminal. I splits off and goes to the driver side for ECM and VP44. The other runs back towards the firewall for the PCM. All the other body grounds are subsystem like the one near the driver battery is mostly lighting and the ABS computer on that one.

I'm unlucky because my water line are outside the house to clear the slide. Mine will not tolerate any temperature below 30*F. I will freeze the water lines. After last summer wind storm that pull the belly off my kitchen tank cover I've got a few repairs to make. Now my old 1977 Dodge Jamboree I done plenty of camping all the way down to zero. The water tank was one of the benches at the table all the plumbing was inside the house. That one I did a trip down to -10*F and never had a problem.

Absolutely nothing is tied to my batteries except the alternator charge lead to the passenger battery and the ground lead added on the driver side battery. Everything else is hooked up in the PDC from the red lead in there. DRIVER SIDE BATTERY PASSENGER BATTERY NOW LOOKING INSIDE THE PDC. No rotten connection, no acid problems, no inference for jumper cables. No forgotten wires to hook back up to the batteries.