Mopar1973Man

Ok. You need a snubber installed before the pump and stack on the sensor. Similar to this...

2000 up should all be fly by wire cruise control. The vacuum motor for cruise was used for Automatic transmission mostly for the throttle valve cable. Manuals switched over to fly by wire being there is nothing mechanical needed to be move or pulled. If you just take in account of all the little things that changed from 98.5 to 02 for our truck you would be surprised. Crank sensor relocated to cam sensor the actual cam sensor function was removed. Vacuum cruise to fly by wire for manuals. Full disc brakes from drum rear brakes. RWAL upgraded to full 4 wheel ABS 3 MAP sensor changes. 53 block. Which they upgrade to fix this. Killer dowel pin gear case change to prevent this. This is just a small sample of the changes in 4.5 years.

Basically you can buy a rebuilt ND or Bosch alternator. BEFORE leaving the store make sure to have the new one bench tested. I've actually bought brand new alternators that are bad in the box. Now once that is done then make sure to do the W-T ground wire mod, then you might want to do the PCM protection fuse mod. Have both batteries tested if one fails replace both. Then do a voltage drop test of all the cables. Ground wire mod reduces the AC noise considerably for the entire truck... The alternator protect fuse mod stops any kind of short to the blue wire from burning up your PCM. Then the voltage drop test can be used anywhere in the system to measure voltage loss on cables and connection so they can be repaired.

Just take a moment of time and look over the fact the US Gov't has the means of controlling weather. Using HAARP which has been around for quite some time patent was filed in 1987 by a Dr. Bernard Eastlund. Yes, all the Gov't knows about this and has been in operation since the 1987. Like change the ozone layer? Hmm.... https://www.wanttoknow.info/war/haarp_weather_modification_electromagnetic_warfare_weapons

Yup. I talked to Jacob Kidd at @dieselautopowerabout 2 years ago and he told me he's stock a 62/68/12 turbo that is exhaust brake ready. Kind of pricey back then... I'm sure it still is... I get it... Right now I'm trying to save the money for the clutch on the 2006 Dodge so I get it to roll soon. Even that ruck needs a $230 dollar wastegate control valve.

Most likely the bounce is most people install the sensor right at the VP44 and the water hammer kills the sensor in a mere few months. NEVER hook a pressure sensor directly to the VP44 this is the source of the water hammer. Even my fuel pressure gauge is 5 feet from the VP44 on 1/8" brake line mounted to the fender. It's not the engine vibration like so many tout, actually its the water hammer and the distance allows the pulses to fade. I've got both a snubber at the tap point and a needle valve to shut down this leg of he plumbing if a failure would to happen.

Most likely software related. Being the only thing different is the software. Technically the guts of the ECM is the same except for the early one have EPROM issues. When you use a Smarty or SuperChips tuner after about 1,000 flashes the ECM dies. Being there is like 50 so odd different version of software for each year of truck for the 4.5 years of VP44 ECMs. Make sure the Quadzilla high idle is turned off. Like @Me78569warned about mixing the two can have some weird issues with running. Not a happy truck.

Ummm... DAP has a 62/86/12 that will work with a exhaust brake! Ask @dieselautopowerabout the turbo... I want to buy it but bills first...

Most like pretty expensive for that ride being diesel.

Because the ECM has already lost it mind from the high AC voltage. Hence the P0606 code. Now with margin parts inside the ECM all it takes is a bit of heat and it gives up.

Hmmm... Maybe because the timing piston is seized up and the pump is constantly calling for advancement and the solenoid get hot from constant having voltage applied. Now like this pump I took apart the timing piston was so seized up I need a propane torch and heat the entire body around the timing piston to even pull it out. Back to the solenoid and it heat. So if the timing piston is stuck and ECM is calling for advancement 100% of the time but the timing piston isn't moving of course the solenoid would be hot and P0216 code present. Typically like we call it the death code because there is nothing left to do but replace the pump. Even if you had the tools to pull the piston out and replace the harden steel sleeve and the timing piston you still don't have the Bosch 815 test stand to recalibrate the PSG to the new timing piston then flash the new calibrate o the PSG. Then most of the people here have been doing pumping and return fuel back to the fuel basket in the fuel tank. I'm not... I draw straw out of the tank directly. My fuel temp rarely are ever above 140*F but if you coming out of the sender basket in the tank you fuel temps can be as high as 160*F. Being I'm running the Quadzilla I can monitor the fuel temp. As for timing I can only see the "commanded timing" not the actual timing. Even when my last pump got stuck FULL advanced I could see the commanded timing that was normal but here is my truck barely doing 30 MPH and knocking hard from the advanced timing. As you see my fuel temp and IAT run tag team.

Yeah I get it... The COVID-19 and the stress of today put a lot of stress on the relationship too. Sorry for the break up.

ECM is fried from AC noise damage is done. This is the second round of P0606 code so I'm sure that your ECM needs to be rebuilt. Fail. Anything over 0.05 is a fail... So yeah the alternator cooked the ECM...

Oh another note of what you'll notice is the alternator will not charge at all when the P0341 code is actually occurring. When the tach signal is dropped the ECM can keep the engine going but the alternator will shut down because of the lack of tach signal to turn on the field leads. I did notice the voltage was falling and not charging then POP the ECM seen signal again and started charging. I didn't put two and two together till I was on the road today and figured that out.

Take all that junk out and do the W-T ground wire mod. I'm only 11mV AC for alternator noise.

Rusted linkage how about that? The salt has done its damage. It the fact you cant make a solid gear change and bouncing back out. After shooting PB blaster all over the shift linkage and shifted a few times it helped. Still you need to shift to 4WD LO first then back up to 4WD HI that way it completes the pull. I did crawl under and look yeah its in sad shape being all the highway miles driven and salt on the highways.

Not bad to install after you wrap your mind around the idea of blind install. You got to do it totally by feel. My mistake was trying a Allen socket first and it rather hard to insert that into a hex bolt. After figuring it out its not that hard. My only problem is my hands are pretty large compare to most so fitting and articulation of my fingers to move the sensor in place is a bit tough. Electrical tape is my go to socket binding stuff. Just thick enough that it sticks and put the sticky side towards the socket. 32*F here at the house but New Meadows was about 22*F. This morning 17*F with a wind chill of 10*F. I'm heading to Lewiston to restock the house (food and supplies). Brief buck or shudder. Then normal again, the CEL comes on right afterwards. NAPA replacement is exactly the same everything. Same shell design, same violet colored o-ring. Just about $60 dollars for the sensor.

Well after 429k miles my cam sensor gave up. That being said let me show you my 104 mile trip to Council ID for a cam sensor... I get home to change the sensor but stuffing you hand below the VP44 in 32°F weather you start to have problems. I got smart and rolled the truck in the shop and plugged in the block heater. About this time @JAG1 calls... wasted a good hour or so on the phone BSing with him. After that I ran down to the shop and proceeded to change the sensor. Now knowing what I did for my buddy Russ his was an Allen bolt. Mine happens to be an 8mm socket. Grabbed an 8mm 1/4 socket and an 1/4 inch extension that is a wobble tip. Reached in and loosen the bolt. Yeah the photo is upside down. Yeah I'm missing a nut on my VP44. Back to the sensor, after getting the bolt loosen I grabbed a magnet to capture the bolt. Then reaching in and grabbed the wires and pulled the sensor out of the hole. Then just unplug. Now you can plug the new senor in or not. Install the sensor back in its hole. You can feel for the location of the tab. Turned back into proper placement. Now take a small bit of electrical tape put it over the socket or Allen key now this will wedge the bolt to the socket or Allen. Install the bolt. If you didn't plug in the sensor now you have to reach in with long needle nose to plug in the sensor. Best to plug in before installing the sensor. TOTAL TIME: 30 MINUTES

In my book, RV275 injectors are still basically a stock injector for the Cummins ISB RV engine. The difference is a mere +40 HP (Standard output) or +30 HP (for High Output engine). RV edition of Cummins ISB was a 275 HP engine. Hence the injector name. Back in the day we only had a handful of tuners that could add extra fuel and limited smoke control and no real timing control. This made it hard to build a truck up without smoke. Like myself, I started with stock injectors and the Edge Comp tuner will do very well. Now when I stepped up to RV275 it became smokey just a bit because of lack of timing control and fuel map control basically Edge Comp just adds to the stock maps for only stock injectors Then the +50 HP smoke pretty good. The problem is more you increase the injector size the more you need to advance timing for the larger droplets to convert from liquid to vapor. Hence the smoke problem. Now with Quadzilla Adrenaline, you can control both fuel and timing. I've gone all the way up to +150 HP injectors popped at 320 bar now and no smoke. This is because of the amount of timing I running versus the size of injectors.

Exactly correct. Now this would occur with the old Carter lift pump and stock plumbing because on a 2 line pump the it would return to the inlet side being there is no where to return to the fuel tank. There was several video of older carter capable of cavitation. Between plumbing restrictions, vacuum on the small stock lines and high flow injectors it was very possible.

Garage is a more or less collections program always you to showcase what you collect. Originally the first program was called the Garage and then the author updated more and changed the name. Now under the "Modification Tab" you can list every one of your modifications and then show pictures for every one of them. As soon as I get a change to clean up the truck and do some repairs I will relist my "Modifications" which is long. Why did I drop the Garage Database is because when I set it up it was based on good look large photos. Now I'm looking for good look photos but more compact size for mobile. Half of my server issue is photos taking too long to render on the screen when some of the photos where as big as 11 MB. Now its limited size will help with mobile timings. As for me I tried to take the day off and didn't exactly turn out to be a day off. But being both of my trucks have issues. I know the 2002 Dodge has error codes but haven't had a chance to go out and play in the snow to check that one. The 1996 Dodge now has no 4WD drive something in the shift linkage is screwed up or rusted or sticking because I can shift to 4WD LO but if I shift to 4WD HI then it will not stay in gear and grinds. Yeah I get another working weekend... Oh goodie!

Uh... WOW!

I took it out for a test drive yesterday late when the snow let up. I was surprised that the steering is very very close to centered on the wheel. Steering is MUCH MUCH tighter in the steering wheel. Barely move the steering wheel and it darts in that direction. I see this so very often where someone starts thinking I want bigger tires and wheels. Go out and just invest in the tires and wheels and never upgrade anything else on the truck and wonder why the steering sucks. Like this truck there isn't enough caster still because of the fixed lower control arms. Should have adjustable track bar next and adjustable lower control arms and this would be a rock solid set up. No I don't hate oversized tires... I think they look cool but there is a price to doing the modification properly. Then you not stuck in the position bad mouthing Dodge for crappy steering. Just the other two mod with the track bar being adjustable will impact the thrust angle, then the lower control arms if you can't get enough caster then it will not self center like it should so now you get saw steering swinging back and forth. Then the other half is proper final gearing, if your running 3.55 or 3.42 gears you shouldn't be up sizing tires till you change the gearing. Yup its snowing big time here...

Blow guns and compressed air are a good friends to have around.