Mopar1973Man

I had mine even spit out a shot of power steering fluid once on my floor mat too but never seen it again after changing power steering fluid.

Yup, I see a lot of that between the larger cities like Lewiston and Boise. Very true. I've heard nicknames for this style and its something I can't repeat here.

Yeah high idling with help a bunch being the alternator isn't designed to max charge rate for idle speeds. Just need 1,200 RPM to reach a good RPM. This will help pull air through the alternator and the diodes to keep them cool. This is part of the reason behind the high idle kit I build was to kick up the RPM's to keep the engine warm on cold days and also to get the alternator up from idle to keep it cool under load. Since I did the W-T ground mod, I not had to replace an alternator since. Between jump staring dead vehicles, etc. I will again admit that I don't have a winch on my truck, but have had to power a lot of dead vehicles in my 426k miles.

Now actually try it... Being I had my stock aluminum mags crack I bought a set of modular mags 16x7 wheels but the offset was wrong and the tires stuck out a mere 1 inch. Now couple that with 3 days a week driving over 1,100 miles. With in just about 15 miles the side windows are covered in so much mud, road grit you can't see out your side windows to look in the mirrors to change lanes. This is why I went hunting for the early 2nd Gen wheels that are 16x7 with proper offset to get the tires back under the fenders. No longer have this issue the road grime is now only on the doors not on the glass. So for all them with them hanging out they never really drove there truck like I have and I just giggle and laugh when I see one with the windows out washed out with road grime.

Engine oil will hold up the longest. Just look when you have an oil leak and its scattered to the rear bump it takes forever to was off. Now diesel fuel is light oil and typically wash off in a short time. Blend the diesel and engine oil and be on the thick side will work the best. This si poor man way but better than doing nothing.

Lets say all the braces I found out traces are just hanging weight and no longer used. My landlord at my other shop had one but the bearing failed. I took one off a 1 ton Dodge which the box was still sloppy. I used this steering box while my Blue Top was rebuilt (bad shaft with a nick in it which kept damaging the seals). Myself I've never used or needed a brace. I've never used over sized tires. I'm all stock sized (Early 2nd Gen). Where the problem comes in is over sized tires. The amount of force needed to steering the tires on the front axle takes quite a bit of force which pushes or pulls on the pitman arm. Hence why the output seal will fail. Since I'm technically undersized I upgrade to a "Quick Ratio" steering box and still don't the brace. Blue Top Steering Box ((Quick Ratio) No brace used in 426k miles. Stock steering box last 350k miles. Running on 245/75 R16 tires (30.5 Inch)

Actually wasn't the alternator but the batteries that caused this. If your batteries where up to the task the load should of been handled just fine. Since the batteries was not the voltage starts to fall and then the current starts to rise. Being the working load will always be the same. I just seen this very same problem at my other shop. My landlord truck =he was winching a vehicle on a trailer and blew the alternator fuse. (W-T ground mod). It's not the alternator or fuse that failed but the batteries that are so weak the voltage drops instantly under load. Now the alternator is ramping up to max flow and diodes got hot and started popping. Even if you upped the alternator with weak batteries it will do the same thing again because the batteries dropped out so fast under load. Just for fun say the winch is 2,800 watt load (200 amp) with good batteries. 2,800 watts = 14 volt x 200 amps Now batteries are weak and winch is used... 2,800 watts = 11 volts x 254 amps <- this is a 54 Amp jump from just the batteries being weak. Being the alternator can't hold those load directly the heat wipes out the diodes. It not the alternator job to hold the massive load but the batteries. Hence why grid heaters can wipe out alternators when its either 95 amps for a single and 190 amps for dual elements. Same problem. It's not the alternator but the batteries...

Because Joe Biden has mental issues and had at least 2 brain bleeds taken care of. https://moodyneuro.org/joe-biden-is-a-survivor/

@Sycostang67 are you running a quick ratio or standard ratio box? You should only be using a standard ratio steering box.

Remember the pop pressure only controls the starting point of injection at what pressure. Both HO and SO pump can reach upwards above 18,000 PSI. Like my injectors being raised in pop helped for efficiency and longevity but it makes the timing late so ive got to add more timing on the Quadzilla.

Hence why I did a custom 7 x 0.010 popped to 320 bar. Will admit I had studder and idle issues on SACs vs VCO injectors. My current are VCOs.

Actually good spot for the pressure sensor its away from the VP44. VSS does have any impact on fueling. I ran without a PCM before and also without a ABS module. No impact on power.

Totally agree.

No. As long as every plays nice and not verbally abusing other members and not threating violence, im all good. Just suggest it stays in the Politics club. That's it.

Same 310 bar is what the injectors are suppose to be set for. Right out of the Dodge FSM...

Same here, just dunloped over my belt.

W-T ground mod handles the ECM and VP44 grounds. Thats the first thing to do.

I've seen another member pull his injectors after 28k miles and they fell to 280 bar. He sent the injectors back to re-popped to 315 bar IIRC. Might talk to @pepsi71ocean he could tell you more.

Just like this morning listening to the BS news off of Eileen's phone and just shake my head. Unbelievable the BS and lies. How about all the Antifa and the riots that Democrats started last summer?

Yeah I am too. You know @PilotHouse2500 is a master of his craft here. Slowly taking his time to fix every bit of metal to work for the build.

I would send those 100 HP injectors back for pop testing under warranty. I know a lot of injector builder have set there pop pressure lower 300 to 305 bar (4,351 to 4,423 PSI) to increase the fuel flow. Myself I went the other direction. I'm running 7 x 0.010 popped at 320 bar (4,641 PSI). It does make a difference in MPG and longevity because the bottom limit 293 bar (4,250 PSI).

Been that way for months now. Just a simple Fan Belt for a 2003 Dodge Dakota took 1 week to get from NAPA.

Wow!

Not if you install my method you'll never have an issue. The biggest thing NEVER direct plumb a fuel pressure gauge. At the tap point you need both the needle valve (safety) and the sintered metal snubber. Then you need at least a minimum of 5 feet of 1/8" air brake line. If you can use more that is great longer the better. The distance from the VP44 tap point has to be far to fade out remaining pulses. I've never had a fuel pressure sensor failure yet. Mechanical are the same you need the same snubber and valve but you have the distance into the cab. All you got to do to kill a fuel pressure sensor is install it directly at the VP44. The pulses will beat it to death in mere few months and be leaking by then. My design is to give my line distance from my tap point plus making the testing of the sensor much easier. Again you need a minimum of 5 feet of 1/8 inch air line for that reason longer is better.

That is why I love this particular video.