Mopar1973Man

Well geez I've got Panther Piss in my shop. I might have to switch to Squirrel Piss next. (Soybean Oil) YESTERDAY'S SCREWED UP WORK DAY --- Yesterday sucked. I had my last customer in the yard and then this morning I've got 2001 Dodge with vacuum problem for the CAD axle. So glad I don't own a CAD axle in my Cummins. Then I'm gotta do research on a 2019 Ford why the temp control does work. Then the second Ford 2004 has a (P0355) bad ignition coil on cylinder E. Ford can no longer count the cylinder so that is cylinder 5. Cray I know... Before all this I gotta work on my truck from thing. I've go a few weird things to deal with. My Volt gauge will chime the CHECK GAGES and drop the volt gauge to 8. The alternator is still . charging at 14.3. So now I got to figure out what data is being missed. The other weird one while I was out I got a check engine light with two other codes for the ECM. Reset and cleared and stayed good. (Another thread for the 24V gen area) Sum of Witch I thought I could get the ATF yesterday morning. Nope. One customer forgot hes suppose to come this morning. Then he had to bill collect on his customers before coming. By the the time I took care of two customers getting them set up and get to McCall to get ATF for my last job it was already 4pm by the time I got home and snowing again. LAST NIGHTS FUN --- Now the fun side... I've been hooking up with most of the neighborhood (Sean's Family, Andrew' Family, Then there is Mark and George the odd ducks). Last night a friend of mine Andrew had a dinner party for all of us. At least 4 or 5 households were there. Stuff Pork Chops (smoked), potatoes, salad, green bean casserole, etc. I bought the soda for drinks three 12 packs. We all gather to share our time and yak and talk to everyone. Eileen found she got some gardening partners now and one loves to to do canning. Myself I was being the pest to the dogs like always and stirring them up. You know how guys are talking shop and HP. Yup, Sean (Booger) Davis he's wanting me to build up his Dad's 94 Cummins into a towing monster. Sean is also building a Chevy S10 with a V8 350 and turbo 400 trans. He's threatening to whip my Cummins. (Bring it on I'll play!) Andrew want me to do a exhaust brake for his Duramax. It was a good evening. Before dinner last night Eileen spun around ,"Hey babe I forgot the bread" Ask Sean if he wanted to come along so he could to drive my truck. After going the 2 miles to my place and back he's not to quick to run his mouth about whipping my truck now. In about a 2 to 3 second burst he was crossing 85 MPH really quick from 55 MPH. TODAY --- So today I'm going to work on my truck. Everyone just going to have to hold on there for a day.

429k miles still going on the ECM but PCM burned up when my alternator shorted out the blue field wire. I had to replace it for 750 for Auto Computer Specialist.

Basic electrical theory.

Yes it is... I can say there is 50+ different versions of ECM software with different version software for options. (Manual vs Auto), (Federal, California, and Canada emissions), etc.

Last time I order a set of kits for seals and dust boots it was like $20 an axle to rebuild the calipers from RockAuto way cheaper than buying reman'ed caliper.

Not at all. Most of my job take me in to the back country away from access to power. I've never been REQUIRED to plug in to get started even with temps as low as -30°F and all I got to set the 3 cylinder high idle mode, now the grid heaters stay on the longest time giving the most heat to the manifold, now start the truck and leave idle. in about 1 to 2 minutes ECM will ramp up to 1200 and drop to 3 cylinder mode. If you want super fast warm up turn the exhaust brake it will drive the EGT's way up to about 800°F and the truck warm up like is driven on the highway. Usually completed in under 10 minutes. You can watch the ice melt off the windows in minutes. Rare I get the luck a vehicle happens to break down in a heated shop. (Yeah right!) Then they don't schedule there vehicle failure so I can plug in and set a timer. (Never happen). Since my life is very randon there is no way to make use of a block heater. But high idle is just as good.

I could do it in seconds... Just unscrew one and try the other.

@Jthor @Breck @Wet Vette Get you attention please.

16* in the 1500 band is a bit tall even my truck can launch good with heavy throttle. More retard in the 1500 the quicker you spool the turbo. Remember scaling also cuts down the amount of retard. So if you total timing scaling is 5° and your set for 40% then your total retard is 2°. But only over 40% of the throttle range and give back to the normal timing.

@IBMobile is absolutely correct. When the pistons are out and the piston seal are removed the piston should just naturally drop to the bottom on the bore without being pushed. This means there is caked up brake fluid on the pistons. I've use light grade wet dry sandpaper and take off the thousandths of harden brake fluid and check again. Some just opt for replacing the caliper I would for time issues and being fast but it is cheaper to rebuild yourself but if there is rust damage its time to replace them. Here is the drop fit without the seal. You shouldn't have to push it down either. @dripley more than likely why the tapered brake pad was one piston is sticking nad the other was pushing still so the pad would rock over on the weak side while it wore the taper in the brake pad. This goes back to the drop test to verify the piston and bore clearance.

Ouch... Hard swing in temperature. Like us dipped down to about 7 to 9°F and then snowed good. Now warmed up and half rain snow mixture back and forth. Making it rough for outdoor work. Especially the truck I've got to go lay on the ground. Heck 2 days ago I had blowing wind that would bite through your clothes. Nope not I said the fly was going out and lay under a truck to finish a steering box install. But today I'm going to put on my big boy pant and just get it done and taken care of. If it dripping water and/or rain it going to suck to get cold and wet super fast. UGH. Yesterday I had the server bottleneck on inodes. Basically how many files I can have on the hard drive which is about 9.6 Million. Something on the system started writing small files and plugged up the server. At the same time I'm trying to reset my password on Hulu. Can't get the email I'm calling Hulu to chew on them. Then find out I can get email. Drop Hulu and now call the hosting company. The fixed there problem at the same time Hulu fix my programming again. I'm working on the store part in my spare time again hit a snag turning to find away to get the email to populate with more than 1 item. So got some code work to figure out and slowing down the start up of the store.

For someone on a strict schedule timers work great but someone like me I might be at home for 3 to 4 days and never leave. Then at a random time like last week at about 3pm run out and to a rescue repair for a gal that lost here driveshaft. Still cold up here but using block heater for me would be very wasteful. I would have to leave it plugged in all the time. So 3 CYL high idle fills this gap much better and give me heat in under 5 to 6 minutes. No long waits for block heater to work and wasted electricity with 15 MPH wind blowing under the truck. I can get instant heat no issue. I'm not dependent on a electric plug for a block heater. Like @Jthorfound out he's 7.3L Ford hates cold air and the glow plugs are not enough. I got his started without the block heater more our less by using a propane torch and warmed up the manifold tubing and it lit right off. No problem. His warms up pretty good just idling. Yeah we had a few days of near ZERO weather here now back to 31°F again.

Start your 1,500 at 13° then come up equal amount of steps. Like Typically I build around about +4 step. 13, 17, 21, 25. Even I've been playing with +5 step. 13, 18, 23, 28. wider bandwidth of timing. In compare to your tming... Not to mention staring out too hot in the 1,500 realm should back down for getting turbo spooled faster. Even mine reaches the same final goal evenly. 15.8 17.8 --- +2 Step 21 ------ +3.2 step 25 ------ +4 Step

Less than a few inches left been raining today.

You be better off shifting to neutral which should be lower engine load which means less fuel used. I typically idle at 6 to 7% engine load fully warmed. Manual though. Keep in mind autos have the torque converter load. Just consider my 65 MPH engine load is 19% to 21%.

No need just watch the engine load number. Engine load is the same as the fuel commanded number. Fuel commanded is from 0 to 4095 Engine load is from 0 to 100% Lower the number displayed the LESS fuel being injected.

As long as your moving the high idle will not start. I mean with your foot on the throttle. Once you stop and idle foe 30 second it will start. As for comparing to stock is meaningless. Being most of us are not running stock injectors. So now you have to base it on engine load values on flat ground at speed. If you go the wrong way (advanced or retard) is will increase engine load. When you find the happy spot it will be the lowest cruise engine load.

Again just turn off the feature. Then just don't use level ZERO. High idle can only be started in level ZERO. Shown in above post! Delay set high 60 seconds. Then set the Warmup mode low like 140*F. Then do not use level ZERO again it the mode required to start high idle. Me... There is nothing on level ZERO its stock ECM and no timing or fuel maps. Use level 2 or 3 at least then your at least running timing on a stock map fuel (lvl 2), or CANBus enhanced fuel (lvl 3)

For me to change a VP44 my average time is roughly 1.5 hours period.

I can. I can use every bit of power. I've got a bit of haze till the turbo spools a bit 1 to 2 seconds and then is clean burning the full way to 100+ MPH. My design is with mine set with 100% wire tap and the way my fuel is mapped out. Right now I have traction problems with just level 2 (stock fuel with timing) or level 3 (CANBus and timing). I can pull the tires loose just standing on it with winter conditions like either wet pavement or icy. Small trick I did is between 5 to 15 PSI I'm just flat stock power (100%) this was put there for normal driving without having to change levels constantly... Now above 15 PSI my wire tap and CANBus ramp up together making for some serious pulling power my 245's just don't have the hold power but 245's gives my that great final ratio of 3.69:1 so acceleration is much faster now. I would have to find a wider 30" tire to keep this thing planted and add traction bars. More or less just a haze at the get go and cleans right up and haul down the road. Even my trip to Arizona I ran my tow tune wide open the whole way still with 17,300 pounds of truck and trailer still did 14.3 MPG. No problem pulling grades and EGT's never past 1,000 to 1,100°F with the cruise set for 65 MPH pulling 7% grade in Nevada. Now if I had my old 235's on the EGT's would of been through the roof. Proper ratio to the ground does reduce EGT's quite a bit. Currently 429k miles...

Take notice the two switch for High idle Delay and the Warmup Mode are both set to OFF! Just toggle the switch OFF on both the High idle delay and the Warm Up mode to OFF. Then set your power level to something NOT level ZERO. The only time it can change the level is is the warm up mode is ON. Now at start up time if the engine is BELOW your set temperature like you see 140°F on my display so it would then set level ZERO and then start the timer and count till it reaches high idle delay setting time 30 second elapse then the high will be enabled at that time. For high idle to pop instantly after selecting ZERO level tells me the delay setting is set for ZERO seconds and instantly turning on. The other one is being you have the warm up mode still on then the high idle will come on any time you select level ZERO. Even with my setup I can turn back on both. Take close attention now both are back on. No need to mess with the values of both the setting just toggle them ON or OFF. Now set up this way with both on. Now if I select level ZERO I got high idle after selecting power level ZERO. I can ramp up the engine speed for jump starting, keeping the cab warm while sitting still long lights or waits. This is normal operation.

As for the front axle I would look at all the drag link, track bar, ball joint and tie rod ends. Like yesterday I had a neighbor call me up and complain about loose steering. Got down there and adjusted the steering box a bit. (1 full turn in). Still super sloppy like 1/2 turn of the steering wheel. So I proceeded to roll down the window and rock the steering standing out side and looking through the fender. The track bar was good but the drag link was just belling back and forth looking closer the nut for the drag link was hanging by 3 threads. Grabbed a 7/8 wrench and tighten till I couldn't no more. (Non-castle nut series). Then check the steering again much better I took some turn off the steering box and tighten everything up again. Had the own test again more a for normal steering and slack. I could of added back in some adjustment for the sector adjustment but he was much happier. Job time took less than 10 minutes laying in the ice and snow a with about 10-12 MPH wind blowing on me. What I'm getting at is get a friend to rock the wheel and look for looks stuff starting at the steering shaft coming out of the truck to the steering box and follow to the right hand tire then back to the left hand tire. Check each joint separately. 99.9% of the time its worn suspension parts or loose parts. Even on my truck last weekend change a track bar after noticing the steering in my truck was getting kinda wider sawing back and forth. Same deal stood at the driver door reached in looking through the fender and seen the end of the track bar moving up and down on the ball stud. Replacement time. Now might is tight like brand new like the day I drove off the showroom floor with my truck. (Odometer 43 miles in Oct, 26 2002) Actually more improved being I've got a quick ratio Blue top Steering box. Side note... It was Sunday... I quite literally started at home dropped @Wet Vetteoff at Davis Family place she wanted to do woman things. (Baking). Went next door to Mark's place and he needed my coolant pressure tested. Ran back home grab the tester, Then came back test his truck and found at least 2 coolant leaks easy fix. Left there continue to walk across yards to George place and did the steering box. Then finally got back to Davis family place and Sean got home and high jacked me to help with snow removal project in McCall. Long day but managed ot fix two vehicles with a rack of wrenches and a lot of tolerance for cold blowing wind and laying in the ice. Sucks but gotta be done.

Basically you need a good health drop of timing when you excess your cruise timing and the drop back to load based timing. On my truck running empty I can run 1° Max Load timing offset but if I towing I typically opt for 3° Max Load Timing Offset This keeps the timing ramped up for my empty economy but when towing you need a deeper retard. I played with the setting on my RV travels to Arizona. Bigger the towed loads more you need the 3° drop. This build boost quickly helping the truck climb over hills and such ill the load levels out and reaches back for cruise timing.

No spring and ball on the 2 line pumps just a spring load check valve. That's why I said to cycle out the regulator so it frees up the regulator valve. Typically returns to the inlet side.

A little trick run the pressure regulator all the way out till it near zero. Then run in back in again. Some time the adjustable regulators stick internally. When you adjust it out you moving the assembly inside and moving the spring nad everything. Now when you reset you might see more stable pressure. I had @JAG1do this trick and it cured his Raptor of this problem. Being that both FASS and AirDog are father and son battle the designs are very similar. Like @Dieselfuture has the style I've got with my AirDog 165 pump. Spring and check ball common store item with Vulcan being he makes most of the parts for AirDog. I just a few washers to adjust my pressure. Tighten the spring and the ball stays closed a bit longer before pushing open on the return line. Stable 15 to 17 PSI for years!