Mopar1973Man

Boost leak would be very loud. With that amount of loss. That large amount of boost lost you should hear it no problem. Compressor wheel damage would be loud too. Being I accidentally fed my turbo hose clamp years ago (Hose clamp fell into the BHAF). You can hear this happening. Boost was dropping and the compressor was making a LOT of racket. Needless to say the turbo quit making boost and the boost was mere 8 PSI by the time I got back home. Here is a piece of that hose clamp.

Basically in a nutshell the inflation is caused by a very weak US dollar. Democrats still continue preaching socialism. Free health care, free this, free that. Sorry someone has to pay for all this free everything. I already know this will not work at all. As for the inflation of prices like locally I bought 3 sheets of 3/4" OSB and its $35.88 a sheet after 3 sheets and a paint roller handle it was $120 dollars for the shelf board and paint roller handle. Locally... Now I'm force to travel either Boise or Lewiston for better prices. I can do really well in Ontario being there is no sales tax by the time your done shopping the taxes you saved could be your fuel money for the truck. Like right now I've got a few trades going on to get work done. I've made a deal with the local construction company to do his A/C work for him and then have him do the dirt work on the yard. I had another deal set up for firewood but come to find out my guy had bail out of the deal and left the valley. His own life got tight and had to move on for paying job. Like I talked to @Wet Vette told here things are not looking good. Time to invest mostly into the house and the ourselves for winter time. I've got one month left and now got to hump butt to get firewood done for the year. I've got to get at least 6 cords I figure for the winter. Currently have 1 cord. Now that the basement pantry is more or less done we need to stock it with food. Slow process. Things are starting to slow down out here. You can see it in the traffic and stores for the most part.

Yup your hung with 17's... Very tough size to get tires for. One of the reasons I've not opted towards 17's because of that tread puts you in wider and taller tires typically. 16's are more common place and have wider range of sizes yet. Just wheel selection can be limited too. should be 245/70 R17 vs 245/75 R16

Just for boost leaks answer... Just taking my truck I can build 47 to 49 PSI of boost. Now take the wastegate hose disconnect the wastegate and leave the hose OPEN not plugged. Now take one bolt out of the intake manifold. With these two open hose it is loud enough to be clearly heard in the cab. Now my loss... Only dropped like 7 PSI. I was still hitting 41 PSI of boost and smoke wasn't any different. EGT's about maybe 100*F higher. 10 PSI boost is telling me the engine is in defuel mode. MAP sensor code, etc. Hence why we need the error codes.

Oh... He's on track... As I replied... Not the tires... The final ratio. That the only way I can explain it is use the math I figure out on my own truck. But people with extremely low ratios are not going to gain anything. I've worked with several locally to fix oversized tires (low ratio). Too many are trying to build a lifted truck on 3.55 gears. Won't work. 4.10 gears is great for 35 or 37 inch tires. Problem as you add tires your adding rotational mass so asking for high MPG with heavy tires is impossible, won't happen. There will always be some loss to having larger tires. Another common mistake is thinking the odometer is still right after changing tires. (only if you had your ABS recalibrated). When you start mathing out 32" (285's) and above tires and looking at final ratios and wonder how to fix this problem. There is only 2 ways. Have the correct gears in the axles to build your big tire rig (4.10) or return to the proper ratio by coming back to stockish 31 inch tires. (265's or 285's - OK) Now the few that actually listened and tired a set of stock tires again find out the power is much better and pull strong again. Put oversize tires back on and BAM! MPG down, EGT up, and then lack of power comes again. I tried it on a few trucks Fords, Dodge and Chevy's too. I've seen truck run the rollers (dyno) and traded tires down and always had a improvement of HP/TQ to the dyno. I can care less about the size of tire really, It's the proper final ratio I try to get people back to. I'm actually looking to go a bit wider in tire but stay around the 30 inch. I'm trying to keep my final ratio but... I looking to enhance traction a bit more since I did improve power I've been loosing traction really easy. Snap 47 to 49 PSI of boost quick enough the rear tires can start slipping. Bad final ratio (only fix is to change tires back or change axle(s) to 4.10 gears) 37" tire on 3.55 is a final of 3.07 35" tire on 3.55 is a final of 3.21 Good final ratio 37" tire on 4.10 is a final of 3.71 35" tire on 4.10 is a final of 3.51 285/75 R16 on 4.10 is a final of 3.91 285/75 R16 on 3.55 is a final of 3.42 (bit low but OK!) A good 3.55 to 3.73 ratio not a problem easy to build good solid power and usable all the way up the RPM's. Quick to spool little smoke. So again its not the tires, I don't care... But if you asking to build clean power, lower EGT's, and good high MPG with big tires not that easy. You have to get the final ratio straighten out, then it will happen. I've been confronted with lots of 35's and 37's on 3.55 and just doesn't work...

Done the study to fin d out that was a fake cleaning. Cleaning the IAT will not improve MPG or fueling. Just check with a live data tool and see if the ECT and IAT both match at key on cold engine. No need for cleaning, etc. Now doing the work with Quadzilla if the IAT falls below 80*F then the timing will advance about +4 degrees. This why I do not suggest cold air intake while warmer air (100 to 140*F) is the optimal for economy numbers.

Does effect the way they run. Being our truck are mechanical pump still (electronic controlled) and the injectors are mechanical all you need to have is wore our VP44 and wore out injectors and most likely will not get good MPG numbers. Injectors are only good for about 100k ot 150k at best. Then VP44 are on average about 200k to 250k with most of us. Now take a injector that is like my stock OEM from new at 150k miles dropped to 260 bar and dropped nearly -4 MPG. Just because the injectors where popping at 260 bar. Still ran great but spray was too thick. Not a thin mist but bigger droplets. Now most of the droplet is wasted in smoke production. Then if you have VP44 that is wore out and timing piston is not working correctly then MPG's is lost too. Just remember more boost means more fuel being burned. My average boost at 65 MPH is 2 PSI (550°F to 600°F EGTs)... My average boost at 80 MPH is 5 to 7 PSI (750°F to 800°F EGTs). I suggest you reduce your working load first. The EGT's will fall as well. Drag causes boost to occur reduce the drag and the boost will fall and so will EGT's. Even towing my EGT's are controlled and never cross 1,200°F with cruise set at 65 MPH that includes grades up to 6 and 7%. No problems. Still boost averages very low at 8 to 10 PSI on the flat towing. Made less than 25 PSI towing on grades typically.

65 MPH you should be closer to 2,000 RPM. Its the lower band like 1,500 and 2,000 that build MPG. You starting too high and not enough spread. With those big tires you should be starting out at 13° or 14° you need to be able to spool the turbo quickly. Then the low timing reduct should be like @Threadzy said but I would try the 50% but raise it next time to 60%. Need more retard for large tires. Take lot of energy to move large flywheels (37 inch tires).The 4.10 gears are optimal. Remember for every ONE pound of rotational mass you ditch is like EIGHT pounds off the frame. Hence why lot of guys went towards the single piece aluminum driveshaft. Shed the rotational mass weight to gain more to the ground. I work at removing as much rotational drag and weight drag to gain the most power. Then when you do add power to already reduced drag truck more power comes out with little need for big fuel. Then the economy comes out like it should. There is only so much tuning your going to be able to cover up the big tires and will always come at the price of lower MPG. The higher you stand in the wind more drag there is above 55 MPH. Above 55 MPH is all about aerodynamics. So with your setup I would reduce your driving speed a bit more if you can. Even my economy tune is more about the 1,500 and 2,000 bands where you spend the most time. Like Myself I would start you at 13° and step up +4 which would give 17° then cruise timing of +2° which would be 19° at 2,000 RPM. Starting at 16° you can't get spooled at all that high. Make sure to set the load based timing for 3°. I never really study the 2,500 or 3,000 because so little time is spent there. 99% at 1,500 to 2,000 is cruise state typically. Unless I84 at 80 MPH now I consider the 2,500 RPM band but rare at best for me now.

Backwards. HX40 compressor wheel and HX35 turbine shaft which is stronger shaft than the HX40. Hence this combo gives the effect of HX40 compressor with the stornger shaft of the HX35. Which is nearly the same of HE351.

There is the problem. Final ratio is too low and the vehicle is standing up in the wind extra foot now. The only thing I could suggest is either... 1. Return it all back to stock and remove the lift. Reset the tires back to stock to gear the gear ratio correct. 2. Change for 4.10 gears and this will cost a pretty penny last bid I seen up in McCall ID for was $4,000 for both axles to be swapped to 4.10 gears. Basically you have a final gear ratio like 3.20:1 to the ground and adds huge amounts of engine load and heat. Oh just to show you what tires can do. Now your on 35 inch tires and empty barely getting 10 to 12 MPG. Now I run a 30 inch tire 245/75 R16 no lift. I can drag my 31 foot Jayco RV which scales out at 17,300 gross combined pounds and still getting 14 MPG. So you added a 3 inch lift and 35 inch tires ruined the final ratio and create a drag equal if not worse than my RV being towing behind you virtually. I'm only 18 feet less than a normal semi truck and trailer. Optimal final ratio to the ground should be 3.55 to 3.73 to 1 to the ground. Below 3.40 ratio to the ground is going to increase engine load and consume more fuel. 66 MPH = 2.000 RPM (Typically see 20 MPG empty) 82 MPH = 2,500 RPM (Hi Marked 21 MPG empty) Being you have a Smarty I would opt to get the unlock dongle and get to tuning that software.

Boost leaks... I took and removed my wastegate hose and not plug it. Then removed a manifold bolt from the manifold. Now with these two massive boost leaks I 'only lost 7 PSI and barely gained 100*F. of EGT's. Boost leaks have to be MASSIVE to make EGT's sore and loose lots of boost. Still making 40 to 41 PSI. The noise is VERY LOUD and can be HEARD! As for loss of power check your wire tap. I had my stealth plate back up just enough to loose connection to the circuit board. It dropped me from 47 to 49 down to 32 to 33 PSI CANBus fuel only.

Just type in antifa.com and see where it goes. You should be taken Joe Biden web page now please tell me why i should vote for democrats? antifa.com -> joebiden.com Try it...

Why? Alternator is rated at 136A... It should never exceed that. The only why that happens is if there is bad diodes shorting out. The alternator should never exceed that 136A rating charging. The only thing the amperage would go higher is a short in the alternator. If you not sure than bench test your alternator. No amp meter needed. Even the stock alternator fuse is 140A... Why would it trip a 150A breaker?

I've got a circuit breaker off of Amazon and never tripped once. Another vehicle I did the circuit breaker he's got heavy electric loads or something that keeps burning up the circuit breaker. I've got a 150A fuse and holder sitting here for his truck if he popping that there is something wrong. Alternator is 136A total period. Should never flow over 150A worth of current charging.

Over two truck loads got dumped in the trash. During the time of the last year with mom her eating habits were very basic. Most the can good exploded and leaked on the shelves. Then the boards start rotting and twisting. Now we are slowly restocking. Even dumped out a freeze with goods over 7 to 10 years old. Now the restock is starting. You won't @Wet Vette doesn't like black licorice... We do, she don't. You might take that up with her too. Yesterday I took the day off and stayed medicated for the day. Rather relaxing. Now up this morning clear headed and ready to do work but it only Sunday. Might as well get ready for the work week. Time to wash and wax the truck and get thing rolling on the web site. Wrench jobs are slowing down big time with hunting season kicking in.

I never bought any cable. Only crimps for the cable ends. I reused all the alternator lead. Then reused most of the ground lead again. No cable to buy...

Yup you heard that right. My 7um filter is catching what my 3um filter is passing. AirDog 150 is a 3 um filter and then the NAPA filter I put in the stock can is a 7um filter. It's catching what the 3um filter is passing. I change filter every 60k miles. Yup 60,000 miles. Before then the AirDog filter looks like brand new. AirDog 150 3um filter at 15,000 miles...

Just a vent. Just so no rain or water is sucked into the vacuum pump. Remember this would be dumped right into the engine oil if the vent hose had access to water.

Like later manual trucks are fly by wire cruise without a vacuum motor. Where the early trucks were all vacuum motor cruise control.

Give a clue. I bought a 1 gram vape cartridge of Sour Diesel in 24 hours between the two of us down 1/2 a gram. I can smoke a good 2 or 3 bowls after a 1.5 years of smoking. Last night we were sore been busy. Been working at getting ready for winter time. The food pantry is being rebuilt and restocked. This will be my FIRST winter at home in 5 years. These two room turn completely storage with @MoparMom stuff and other thing. Now clean it all out and sorting stuff. Now the pantry is looking better fresh paint (Kilz) and top coat of interior latex. New shelf boards 3/4" OSB (expensive stuff). Then had @Wet Vette paint them too. Now after all that we really didn't eat dinner last night, more or less grazed. I cranked up the pipe with "White Widow" did 2 or 3 bowls of that. Then flip over later to the vape pen with "Pineapple Express". Shortly after that I was out cold. Woke up at 7:30am dry mouth and needing to take a leak. I slept good and hard all night. Feeling good this morning. Then the old shelves...That got over 30 years of service but bowed and getting rotten in places. Looking back in the picture archives... Yup... Cannabis was a great helper with controlling pain and helping relax last night. Being today is Saturday I'm not going to do anything. I'm going to enjoy a weekend for a day and relax.

Now you need to modify even more to fit it and then build a controller to use it. Consult @Me78569 he's been there and back.

Mobil 50 SAE I'm running is a synthetic and it is a GL-4 gear lube which will protect all syncro's. It thick like 90 weight gear lube but rated for all Eaton Fuller 10 speeds in commercial applications. I prefer a thicker gear lube for transmission that is towing that a thin one that might give good shift performance.

PCM and wiring should be match to years. Being the PCM is the master coumpter and the wiring change several times through the years.

Kind of is but small exhaust housing of a 9cm2. The only different between is mine is a 60/60/12 and the HE351 is a 60/60/9. Hybrid HX35/40 breathes better. I typically just buy the NAPA 85w-140 with modifier included. Just pour in.

https://tiresize.com/gear-ratio-calculator/ https://tiresize.com/comparison/ The tools I use...