Mopar1973Man

No. MAP sensor that is error out will prevent any damage because of limp mode. Just really low in power. No fuel is given since it can't see boost. IAT sensor really doesn't do anything. If the IAT is below 80*F the timing jump up another +4* advanced. In limp mode timing is locked and limp mode power. This is why I made the MPG fooler warmer IAT (100 to 140*F) is actually better for efficiency than cold air. Hence why this was made... Plugs into both the IAT and ECT.

Yes sir. Still dropping down into the 20's and 30's at night. I'm still back at home doing odd jobs and keeping going. I'm building a web site for Eileen's Daughter. Then the 2010 Ram 6.7L was in my yard might be sold I got to meet the new owner for a test drive. Then I've been still gutting Mom's house to make it our own place. Chucked out Mom's 36 year old couch. Moving furniture around the house and getting rid of old chairs and excessive stuff. As for going back to work it would be nice but I'm watch the local economy going south and people are running out of money. Lots of people want me to do work but without money its hard to buy parts.

245's here and well over 70k miles on these tires. 245/75 R16 and Hankook ATm.

Biggest fails I see... Cracked fuses. Hacked up wiring, bad relays, bad safety switch or missing, bad start contacts. Safety switch (manual) is under the dash and (auto) is on the transmission. The fuses for the starter I've seen crack and look find but no power to starter solenoid relay. Then I've seen the starter solenoid relay fail and not deliver power to the starter. I've seen starter contact fail pretty common the start pinion gear will pop out but no spin of the starter. All these are super simple to repair and cheap.

Coming to a close for your pump I think the best was closer to 300k miles on a pump.

Man I always hated that open the dash up and find totally packed by mice.

Always though it was foolish for running a 165 GPH pump on 3/8 hose. Adding a high volume pump with low volume plumbing. Return system is left alone. Supply system should be as open as possible for pressure stability. I'm also running an AirDog 4G 165 GPH pump with 1/2 inch lines and it is fairly solid in pressure hanging at 15 to 17 PSI.

First problem is the trailer frame rated for towing doubles? If not it will destroy the RV in a quick order typically ultra lites and light weight trailers are not designed for towing behind them. Safety wise I would look for another option. Not worth the risk of damaging the RV because possibly the frame isn't design for the tugging. Not to mention you'll need a brake controller for the towed vehicle behind the trailer. Personally I would haul the trailer first, then come back and haul the cart on a flat bed.

With my setup I'm at 410k miles. Now the first time I changed the tie rod ends was back at 350k miles. There isn't a real need for 3rd gen parts. The only trick to long life is staying away from oversized tire that add stress to these parts. I've used 235's and 245's sized tires for the life of the truck. To get 350k miles from the steering system is awesome without any braces, modifications, etc.

First off I would get a code reader and read all the error codes in number form. Then get a service manual for your year, make and model of vehicle now look up the error codes. This would be my first step to getting information on what is going on.

Lets put it this way I'm at 410k miles now only fluid I've used in my power steering is Walmart Super Tech and NAPA power steering fluid. I still have my OEM pump. Not to mention never installed a filter but change the power steering fluid every 30k miles. The only work done to my pump is new reservoir seal. That's it. Gear box would of still been in but I traded with Blue Top for a quick ratio. My OEM box was in perfect shape but input seal failed. No filter needed, no special fluids required.

This is why the heater core failed. Coolant was not changed and flushed often enough so the coolant pH now turns corrosive and eats any metals its touching including the heater core. Coolant should not be kept over 5 years or 100k miles. Even at 75k miles you might find the pH already going south. Replacement dashes can be installed while the dash is released from the firewall being I know that @dripley has done it.

Not shabby... Now lets see that Chevy after 300k miles and how its doing.

Like my OEM pump lasted barely 48k... Second pump with 128:1 ratio of 2 cycle oil lasted 243k miles. I'm way past the 100k mark now on this pump.

Camping in Idaho does not require a camp ground. Yeah all the the state and federal campground are closed if gated. There the others that are here are open and people are camping everywhere. Short's Bar, Island Bar, etc.

Even running the 7 x 0.010 @ 320 bar, Quadzilla and HX35/40 hybrid turbo 60/60/12... Spools really good. With wire tap it can get rather hot.

DAP pumps are good pumps... I'm past 100k miles and still going strong no issues.

Interchangable. Bosch and ND alternators will both fit. I just had this happen on my landlords truck at my other shop. Did the W-T ground wire and pulled the alternator and the nut broke off the top bracket.

Not a sensor problem normally... Check the OBDII codes

Fuel sender is about 70 bucks from your local Dodge dealer.

Need 20 psi or more to move the arm.

True... But way more complex than the Quadzilla being duration is measured in mm3 and timing is dealt with way differently. Still limited by CANBus limitations and VP44 limtations. Which is nothing like CR engines. Which the Quad makes up with Wiretap and breaking the limitations of the CANBus, ECM and VP44. mm3 Has to play by ECM and VP44 rules.

APPS typically will not make a limit to throttle.

@Dynamic he would know what work where...

Here you go the fix... Remember this is 2nd Gen but I've found heavy duty flashers made for LEDs for both my early second gen and my later seconds gen.