Mopar1973Man

I used the ISSPro EV2 gauge without color band and the programmed the warning light for when to come on. As you can see my fuel pressure warning light...

Make sure its near the C3 connector and not out by the alternator. Since the PCM creates the 12V source then you should fuse near the source so if the wire shorts to ground it blows the fuse out. You should be fine with a 5A fuse which I'm running. PCM turns on the +12V on the blue wire and then turn on the variable ground on the green wire. This only happens after the PCM detects RPM on the engine. That Blue wire to actual ground should show 12V. Now blue wire (+) and the green wire (-) it should show like the 8 or 9V till the battery charges up then it will drop lower. Normal function of the voltage regulator. It was all a mistake. This web site was named after me and was just going to be a personal notebook. It grew and grew. From a simple static page web site in 2004. To this big beast of server and nearly 15G of data stored on the server. We are handling over 1,500 people per day. I never though it would blow up this big in mere years but now that it going I can stop. I even tried to shut down the site in 2012 and everyone push me to continue on. No one wanted the website to be shutdown. So here we are.... First url was http://frontiernet.net/~mopar1973man (still hold it and the server is empty) Then the actual domain was bought 2007 for mopar1973man.com https://web.archive.org/web/20100612112151/http://www.mopar1973man.com/ https://web.archive.org/web/20110225144704/http://mopar1973man.com/ https://web.archive.org/web/20140916145810/http://www.mopar1973man.com/ https://web.archive.org/web/20171001233057/https://mopar1973man.com/

This is because when you do a leveling kit it push the axle down and away from the the frame as you do the caster angle is made more neutral so center hold is lost and wandering starts. Possibly starts the death wobble. Then the axle tend to pull back because the control arms are too short and need to install adjustable control arms to correct the length. Then since the axle dropped down the track bar is fixed length and tends to pull the axle towards the driver side some and requires a adjustable track bar to correct the thrust alignment. So after install a simple lift kit you now screw the geometry for the entire front axle just to make it look cool. There is lot more to just leveling the truck and many other parts needed to make it right. In 415k miles I've left the front axle completely stock and NEVER ONCE had any steering issues, looseness, wandering or even death wobble EVER! No excessive wear on parts either ball joints last over 200k miles, tie rod ends 350k miles, steering box 325k miles (leaks) etc. Tire life last set was over 100k miles and two winters. Running 245/75 R16 Hankook ATm's. Which is a improvement over the 235/85 R16 I ran and even better than the stock 265/75 R16 tires size which is prone to wearing out the front ends.

Ok I've gone and done it. Since good Ol' @MoparMom passed away. I've now gone and pull my muffler back off the truck and went back to straight piped exhaust again. 4 inch diamond eye, without a muffler will talk to the neighborhood rather well if you deep in the throttle. Now once you reach cruise state its not bad at all. I was shocked at the amount of soot loaded up in the muffler it was like tipping the muffler and bang it once on the ground was like watching black powder fall out pretty good amount too for single tap. All the muffler can was loaded with carbon.

I run... 3.55 axles 245/75 R16 tires (30.5 inches) NV4500 transmission With this combo I'm 2,450 at 80 MPH but twisting out 20 MPG. Then at a prefect 66 MPH I'm at 2,000 RPM still doing 21 MPG. Running up to 2,500 will not harm the engine. I've done it over 100k miles now and seen way better MPG from the change up. The 245's tires change the final ratio to 3.69:1 on the 3.55 gear axles. This give way more torque, so much in fact I can break the tires loose pulling my 8,000 pound RV that is 31 foot long. I'm in 4th gear (direct by 25 to 30 MPH). Even towing the RV I had a hi mark of 14.7 MPG. Avg 12.6 MPG for the trip down. The trip back from AZ was 10.5 MPG bucking harsh head winds. Even better yet @IBMobile is running the 245/75 R16 on his truck with 4.10 gear but his truck is typically strictly used for towing his RV. Bliss, Idaho - Winds had forced me to stop for the night.

Heater element on the mirror burned up. My OEM driver mirror also quit for heat function. After replacement the new works just fine. The element that heats the glass failed. Another note I understand why you see so many with the mirrors up position. In the down position you can get the passenger mirror in enough to even see the body of he truck. When you flip to vertical that problem is gone. The smaller fish eye mirrors are super nice.

Pull all that off. Send the PCM for repair at Auto Computer Specialist in Florida. External regulators are not a good permanent solution. (Only band aid at best). Here is what happened in your PCM. Here is my full tale.. All your damage comes from a failed alternators. Blue lead of the field shorted out and burned up the PCM. I've got a fix for that. Then the other mod to protect the entire truck.

@dieselautopower is typically our go to guy for parts. I'm running a ton of mods as in here is my list of goodies. (4 pages of mods) https://mopar1973man.com/garage/vehicle/101-2002-dodge-ram-2500/?show=mods Just basics... Quadzilla Adrenaline, DAP (7 x 0.010 @ 320 Bar) 150HP Injectors, and HX35/40 Hybrid Turbo (60/60/12) with 4 inch exhaust (muffled) and BHAF. I'm right at 500 HP. Towing ready no EGT's issues. Towing 31 foot trailer hit a max of 14.7 MPG and typically empty I'm 20 to 21 MPG.

Truth is the DemocRATS are trying to destroy America to make Trump look bad.

Welcome to the family.

I'm at 415k miles still running stock steering. Still tight and no issues. Replaced my first set of tierods at 350k miles. The biggest secret is not running any leveling kits or oversized tires

I ran all of it... CI-4 when in was common, then CJ-4 when it was common, and CK-4 now. Nothing bad will happen 415k miles later still runs strong and works just fine. I look at it this way all the millions of vehicles loaded with CJ-4 didn't blow up or melt down. Semi trucks, new vehicles (Dodge, Ford and Chevy). I didn't go hunting for only CI-4 because the scare of CJ-4 was so bad. Nope it all worked just fine. Now if I was seeing lots of engine failures and meltdowns from oil related failures. Never did. I check with other local shops and how many thousands of GALLONS of CJ-4 diesel engine oil was sold. No issues reported. Even check the local logging company if they had any issues with CJ-4 oils.If there was a problem with CJ-4 oils do you think a logging company would buy thousands of gallons of CJ-4 that is going to damaged the entire fleet of trucks and skidder equipment? Nope. If there was something bad about CJ-4 I wouldn't be at 415k miles now. I look at the CJ-4 as a hype thing...

Start simple double check all your battery terminals for being clean and tight. Then move on to fuses. Double check all the fuses to see if any fuses blown. All your fuses should be under the hood. See if you can read any error codes too with a Scan tool. But you'll have to get power back first. The error codes might give a clue too. Being that erd gen truck have no relays and the the only thing that control power through the truck is the TIPM (Totally Integrated Power Module) or the fuse box under the hood.

Nope... your good!

If the Quadzilla I Quad app has load on a previous key cycle it will remain with that tune till you load iQuad app and switch again. So if I load my Economy tune then shut down. Then next startup (headless) it will automatically load the Economy on next start up.

Yes, you can. I go headless quite a bit. Makes for great conversation pieces when the truck takes off and pull you in the seat but tuner is seen. As long as the tune has been updated. The tune will remain in the Quadzilla module on next reboot.

I'm going to publicly say this. I've gotten a phone call from another member asking all these questions about ground wire mod and having to add the second ground strip from battery to battery this is NOT REQUIRED nor will you gain NOTHING! Just because W-T has a ham transmitter for his truck and draws large amounts of power. If the main cables are in good condition there will be ZERO drop or very little less than 0.2 volts. The existing main ground cables going to the block are more that enough. If you do a voltage drop test of your cables your going to find out if you have weak ground cables or positive cables. Anything over 0.2 volts voltage drop is a fail for the cables. This load test is done using the load of the starter. You can remove the fuel pump relay from the PDC and allow for longer cranking periods. As for the voltage drop test. As for charging and the battery temp sensor. There is no need in swapping charge the W-T ground mod back to the drivers battery. The voltage will be THE SAME on both batteries. The battery temp sensor will remain on the driver side battery. If the passenger side battery is going bad regardless of the battery temp sensor the voltage is still the same to both batteries it just the PCM can sense passenger battery condition. The point at which the charge lead is hooked to the passenger battery will not affect the charging ability. What will impact the charging ability is the fact you have either a bad positive cable that is failing (drop > 0.2 volts) or ground cable to the block that is failing (drop > 0.2). Adding an extra ground will not fix this but mask the true issue of the bad grounds to the block. The largest load is the starter at 700 amps. Second largest is the grid heaters at 195 amps. Just like in the photo here I've got eight 6V batteries and in two banks. As you can see I've got a battery temp sensor here only on one of the eight batteries. Regardless of the way I hook up the charge from the hydro generator or the solar it still going to charge the same. If the battery to the left should fail then battery temp sensor will never see it but the battery will still be gassy. You can see the left battery towards the top is the negative and then the right battery towards the bottom is the positive side. Every thing is hooked up with bus bars. No different than our mighty Cummins just I do it with eight batteries instead of two batteries. AGAIN... THERE IS NO GAINS TO ADDING A SECOND GROUND BETWEEN BATTERIES. Cummins block can handle more current than a two ought cable could. Ground should be kept SHORT AS POSSIBLE. Which the factory two cables do this exact function and use the block for the rest.

I get just a puff out of mine. The biggest thing for cleaning up the smoke is to have more timing in the right spot. This would be a limit on Smarty because you only can select 4 levels of timing. But no way to control where the retard is and where the advancement is. The only difference between us is the timing factor. I ran that trip solely on CANBus fuel only just like what Smarty can do, but I can adjust timing to meet the needs of the injectors hence just a puff of smoke. The fuel injector difference is 7 x 0.009 vs 7 x 0.010. I'm also popped a bit higher which adds to being cleaner. Like after a bit of tweaking and what not. I found optimally for me is about 23* (cruise) at 2,000 RPM, under load climbing about 17* at 2,000 RPM. With the 245/75 R16 tires I'm at prefect 2,000 RPM's at 66 MPH. This reduced my engine load greatly and spool is pretty darn quick. I've actually spun the tires a few times just launching from lights on my trip even on dry pavement, hitched up.. Yup, she spools fast. Now my economy tune is different and the cruise state is lower, the fuel map is different, even the retard amount is different. Still can touch 21 MPG. TOWING TUNE TIMING Again. I can set my cruise state timing and when does it actually hit cruise state timing. I can set the amount of retard when you get into the throttle. Then load base timing I can set how much retard base on engine load after cruise state is cancelled. TOWING TUNE TIMING Being I made that haul to AZ with the RV 17,300 GCW (62 feet long total). Seen 14.7 MPG (Max) and 12.6 MPG for Average. This is the trip down. My trip back was lower and bucking wind and rain storms. (as seen in the background of what I just came through) The only thing I could suggest is go towards the Smarty Touch and get all the bit and pieces so you could write a custom tune beyond what S0-3 tune can do. Then you can get the timing correct for your application of parts and work loads. The problem with Smarty is going to be cap out in timing as Me78569 has proven in his data logs which with your change in turbo and injectors won't quite fit as good. The other option is flip to the "dark side" and grab a Quadzilla which don't require the cost like Smarty Touch does and requires PC to do programming.

Battery drain is pretty easy to detect. Grab a good digital Multi meter with Amp meter. Pull each fuse one at a time in the PDC and cab fuse panels. Now insert the probes into the fuse socket. This will measure the current across that circuit. When the high drain is found you'll at least know what circuit. Look in the power distribution section. This wire map works for all years.

I'm going to say its a flop. After my trip to Arizona and seeing long grades 10 to 20 miles long where the turbo is spooled up 15 to 17 PSI constantly. That little battery won't last long. Especially when your climbing then level off, then climb again. I would say in racing its a different thing where the driver is constantly on the throttle and back out again. Where most of us just set the cruise and stay even rate and speed. Where will that charge come being we don't power then let up in the corners like racing. Can't charge will being spooled. Like my trip home I bucked head wind the entire way and stay in the spool constantly. Standard turbo now are expensive, then you look at the pure cost of a VGT turbo on the 4th gens and up, even more expensive. Then this new technology with a controller, battery, electric motor, etc. Most of use won't be able to afford it. (Check the links).

If you don't see the WTS light then the ECM never booted and the engine is brain dead and will not run.

Fuel pump relay drop is will cut the power to the PSG and the the P1689 code is tripped. As for @wil440 I thought it was the Fuel shutdown lead. That showed the pulses?

Start off with... Pull and test your alternator for excessive AC noise. Replace if the AC noise level is too high. Then make sure to test the new alternator before leaving the store. I've had wiped out a store after having them pull 2 alternators and had then both fail on the bench. Any error codes? Any check engine lights? I need to know if the ECM is damaged. Not always will it just fail with code but clues might be given. This article is to reduce excessive AC noise from jumping off the alternator charge lead into the ground strip heading into ECM and VP44. This one is optional, but it will protect your PCM from shorts in the alternator.

Nothing.... OEM power pack does nothing, order a second power pack still nothing. No charge light. No bootup, no turning on. Like no power at all. I'm going to try and see if Asus will repair it. I'call a high school buddy that does Computer Repair in Las Vegas, He won't touch it. Most of the little computer places around me don't want to touch it either. It died back in January when I was busy tending to @MoparMom before she passed on. Now I've been really wanting to get it fixed but can't find anyone to fix it. After M73M.Com buying this I really can't just toss it out after barely a year and buy another. There is only so much I can do on a cell phone. Since my master computer here at home has all my work stuff still only means I can work at home. If I travel I'm limited in what can do. Make thing more fun I've been fight with my left hand being I've got nerve damage to my middle finger and ring finger at the tips. Numbness. Cellphone makes it worse. Much easier to push the mouse no as nerve racking (no kidding). Even better I'm left handed.

You could send the entire harness to @Auto Computer Specialist they can rebuild engine harnesses.