Mopar1973Man

If it was a short it would thriugh a hi volt code P0238 or if it was dropping out it would be a P0237 code. If it was a overbooked issue because the boost fooler it would P0234 code. There is some weird conditions but rare to have a sensor fail within spec. The only thing you could do is replace the sensor. If the Quadzilla boost fooler failed it should run normal without the Quadzilla hooked up.

W-T Ground wire mod, and the PCM protection fuse mod will cure it permanently. All these articles are in the 2nd gen electrical section.

Central timer is above the throttle pedal in the dash. Go look at the CCD network article in the 2nd gen Electric articles wire map and what causes the code. CCD+ and CCD- should be 2.49 and 2.51 volts. Since there is ZERO on one side its either a short to ground in the computer or device or open connection.

Since I'm down here in Mojave Valley AZ the daytime temps are 112 to 116°F out it been getting easy for the teansmission to reach 170 to 180F without a trailer. Now with my homebrew heat shield is take much longer to get temp and is roughly 20 to 40°F cooler now floating around 140°F after going to Bullhead City AZ and back to Needles CA and home again just at 145°F compared to yesterday at 180°F. The test run was 50 miles in today's heat and traffic.

Thats why I'm having check the two red wires. The red/white is the trigger to turn on the Quad.

As for booat limiting ill make 22 PSI of boost but it just holds at 22 PSI and thorttle remain fairly limited.

Try with the Quadzilla one level ZERO. This basically shuts down the Quadzilla and runs stock ECM. If it drives fine here that means you have a setting in your tune or possible limits settings hanging you up.

Yes. But also in the early 2nd gens they used 215/85 R16 that was stock 3500. Then the other size for 2500 is 245/75 R16 or 265/75 R16 for 2500. I've rode in @IBMobile truck with 4:10 gears and 245s tires that is a quick truck. Then with @Dynamic built transmission very impressive power. @Ironforger yup that is it. Typically used in industrial transmissions like Eaton Fuller.

Yup... need to send back to Quadzilla for testing. Red wire is direct to +12V, Red/White is hooked to the fuse in the cab. (Key ON) power only. Quadzilla will only hold power on till it cools if the option is on. Then it should drop power on the Red/White.

Torque management even myself see the same thing by the time I hit 3rd just above 25 MPH it jumps to life and typically tire let go if im too deep in the throttle even on the manual NV4500.

Look back at my post @dripley... im doing good but I'm going to build the heat shield. I'll be heading towards Layton, UT to collect my shirt from @dieselautopower.

No coolers I'm in Arizona right now and towed my RV 900 miles. Average was 160 to 180°F trans temp. I'm seeing slightly warm for empty running in town at 140 to 160°F in weather in the 110°F. I'm going to opt for the heat shield between exhaust to the trans. Lot of the grades are long and keep my EGTs near 1,000 to 1,100°F. The radiant heat starts the fluid to rise but still ok. Long grades can get to 200°F Mobil SAE 50 trans fluid doing good. Oh scaled weight of both 17,300 pounds. Biggest thing is the 245s tires reduces stress on the trans and runs cooler than 265's or larger tires which my final ratio is 3.69:1 vs 3.55. Cooler temps and towing 66 MPH it exactly 2,000 RPM.

Call Auto Computer Specialist see about having the PCM on the firewall sent in for testing. Double check by unplugging all extra modules, like factory stereo, overhead trip, central timer. Look for voltage on pin 11. Might be good to do W-T ground mod to reduce chances of AC noise damage. Then do the PCM protection fuse too (optional but suggested).

Sure thing...

No... 2.51 and 2.49 volts in reference to ground. So the pin 11 is short to ground or open circuit.

Double check it might be tight, just set up and check with a feeler gauge again.

I'll pick mine up in person. Might be week till I get there. @dieselautopower

I know I shouldn't say this... I made it from New Meadows ID to Bullhead Ciy AZ. 900 mile trip. I look at it this way I used to drive mom 1,000 miles a week. 250k miles in 4 years. I've only been towed two times. Most all problem I could drive home to fix. This trip with AZ heat im going to build a trans heat shield to keep trans Temps down while I tow my RV home. My only problem is trans running hot side. I've got tools but every failure I've had no tools could fix. Mainshaft failed in my NV4500 losing 3rd and 4th. Limited to 1st, 2nd, and 5th. 5th gear disappeared at 80 MPH. Limited to 4th. VP44 failed at 247k miles then was stuck in full advance. Limited to 20 MPH. Air Dog 150 dies and locked up after 250k miles and 13 years. Towed. No part stores carry Air Dog pumps.

Might just find custom +50 HP even cheaper.

Normal. Mine does it all the time. Lopes about 100 to 200 RPM till stopped then it idles nearly exact at 800 RPM. (+/- 2 to 3 RPM) Only suggestion to lighten is check valve lash. I'm running stock SO VP44, and 7 x 0.010 @ 320 Bar. Since I'm in Arizona and its 105 to 108F it lopes pretty good here. Get back to cooler country it stops.

I will never suggest a p-pump a truck. The only reason is to race the truck. Of all the people here that p-pumped end up parking that truck and buying another vehicle because it broke down all the time. One member I asked to meet me and he was to scared to drive it because of failure rate was high. Like on my truck ill lose cruise control which I use a lot.

Yeah it would be below the VP44. My bad.

Even my Quad shows I can reach 69 PSI of boost but actually I only reach 47 PSI. I don't use the display or mobile device reading. I used my ISSPro EV2 gauges which are dead on.

There is a member that had the tone wheel fall off the crank.