Mopar1973Man

To me a gun should never be stored in a vehicle period. My 9mm is typically on my hip. The ONLY time my 9mm leaves my side is when I got to enter a gun free zone. Which typically isn't so bad bad but now with places like WalMart saying Gun Free that is one last store I will not shop in. Personal firearm is like a seat belt. Your not going to get that chance to click your seat belt before an accident. Just like you going to ask the threat, "Hey let me go out to my truck, unlock my storage box and get my gun for protection." It doesn't work that way. A locked up gun is absolutely worthless. Just my personal view...

I typically run as far as 2WD will allow on snow covered roads. Then when I shift to 4WD then I should be asking do I really need to be out here right now? If I install chains I should be turning back to safety. Once the chains come out that is your last trick you can pull and shouldn't travel on through you should be looking for a safe place till the conditions change. Wider tires tend to make for poor traction. Like looking at it this way. If I was to step out in the snow my foot will compact to solid ground. Now if you put on snowshoes you now walk on top of the snow. Basically with 35's you've got snowshoes on and going to float on top of the snow and ice. In all my years I found much better traction on a set of 235/85 R16's (31" inch tires) than any other tire I've ran. I can travel much farther without 4WD and never used chains once in nearly 400k miles. I've still got the brand new set hanging in the wood shed unused. With my current 245/75 R16's the tire is only 10mm wider, but 1 inch short at 30 inches. The only problem is I must turn down the Quad being the smaller tire puts more torque to the ground so it extremely easy to spin the tires. Using level 3 is pretty solid so far.

Personally I would connect it correctly. It might impact things that share that signal since it most likely shared by the ECM and PCM both. Typically lock up switch the relay is pulled and the power is constant to the transmission and your controlling the lock up solenoid with a ground signal on the orange and black wire.

One of the feel reason I hate hydro kit that are pre-bled. Everyone assumes that the hydro's are ready to go out of the package. I would rebleed the system and start over. The hydro's will pull the holder strap with one pedal press. If there is air in the system it will NOT move and the white holding tabs will hold the rod. I've seen this a few times. Just best to remove the entire hydro system again and rebleed as I got the article. Bleed part is towards the bottom of the article.

I've gotta ask have you changed injectors at all? 172k miles is long ways for stock injectors. Typically CR injectors are coming to the end of the life by 100k to 150k miles. This would be my first thought. I would pull 6 injectors and have them bench tested.

Both. Pressure is created to make a longer duration because of the nozzle size. Smaller the nozzle the longer the duration and more pressure. Larger nozzles flow more quickly so the lines pressure is reduced and the duration much shorter. Pump can only squeeze Y amount fuel past a small nozzle it X amount of time.

??? Wow... Maybe it was a good think I switch from South Bend to Valair. Nothing special required for the Valair Dual Disc I installed. Still using NAPA master / slave cylinder.

Kind of like myself the +75 HP DAP VCO (7 x 0.0085) injectors only made about 75k miles and were wore out and popping low. Typically what you'll see is the engine load drops seriously low at about 3% and the idle is excessive high like 850 to 900 RPM's that is pop pressure is TOO LOW. The ECM can't cut fuel morre, so the idle creeps up and the engine load is botttom out because it can't cut fuel. 293 Bar (Bottom limit) <-> 300 to 305 bar (common for aftermarket) <-> 310 bar (stock pop) <-> Greater that 310 bar (MPG and longevity) Like myself I'm popped at 320 bar on my 7 x 0.010 injectors. Touch 22 MPG once in awhile. I'm down to about 7% engine load at idle from the 13% I had originally when I installed so I'm about half life with these injectors. About the first 20k to 30k it stayed close to 11 to 13% but now starting to wear and lose its pop pressure at miles are racked up 1,000 miles per week.

Pretty soon I'll have to create a winter tune. Getting way to easy to break the tires loose.

Not a problem that what we are here for is to help out. Like me work and paying billing...

Emery cloth and work the excessive paint out of the hole. Work slow and even. Then might put a thin film of silicone in the hole as well if your concerned. The re-assemble the gear case again. Place the seal in a different position in the case to relocate for the crank wear.

In any case the hi beam light is hooked up to +12V power. The other side relies on the grounding of the dimmer switch. I've got a feeling its in the modified wiring that is causing the problem.

Yeah once a mode is selected it remains for that key cycle. They other catch is you can start on 6 CYL and then select 3 CYL and it will flip. But no way back to 6 CYL unless you shut down for at least 10 second and re-select a new mode. If you even select 6 CYL it will follow last set mode if its 3 CYL. Normal Idle -> 6 CYL -> 3 CYL (No way back up the tree again - Shutdown required)

DAP sells the cross over o-rings. Typically supply new crossover o-rings with injectors.

Might check with Dorman products might have it.

HE351 (60/60/9) and the HX35/40 Hybrid (60/60/12) are the same but the exhaust housing is smaller. I would love to jump for the 62/68/12 that DAP has but I'm short the funds to buy into that one it will work for my Exhaust brake. He has one turbo that will fit my exhaust brake.

If you select a mode of operation the ECM will continue that operation till the engine is shut down. So its not possible to start on 3 CYL mode and then flip to 6 CYL it will not change operation. You must shut off the engine and wait roughly 10 seconds and now select the new mode of operation then start again.

I was just called into the shop to help the landlord fix his Ford F-150. The Column shift would not consistently release during brake application. No issues with the brake lights or the fuse. All working. It was the solenoid sticking ot failing. After fighting for 2 hours we both agreed to pull the shift lever out and looked at the tip and you can see the wear mark from the lock. Covered the dash and using a cutoff grinder. Cut about 1/4 inch off the very tip. Now install and presto normal functional shift lever without park interlock system. Then using the cutoff grinder and trimmed the cuff off the column plastic so installation is much easier. Total cost. ZERO Total time for project about 1 hour.

Injector o-rings will mix fuel with oil. Now crossover tube o-rings will leak fuel out on the manifold.

One of the members here fave it to me. He tried didn't like it too much. Needed rebuilding bearings were shot.

Limited pedal... Check the alternator for excessive AC noise. It can pollute the tach signal. This could limit power.

True but there is little options for keeping my exhaust brake. My exhaust brake is a requirement for where I drive with mountain grades. Getting about 45 to 47 PSI of boost. Quick to spool typically. Most times spools so fast the tires come loose. Little smoke to just a haze. Normal EGT's at 66 is roughly 550*F and 2,000 RPM. Then at 80 MPH at 2,500*F its barely 650*F. Really good cool EGT's. No issues here. Towing just drop to level 3 and I can't exceed 1,200*F with the RV or any trailer.

Same here. Pretty steady typically.

Majority of time its the installer fault. Like I've installed over 4 clutches in the last month. Every single time I install a clutch I get the transmission to full mate before ever tightening the bolts. I use slide pins for lining up and this makes it perfect. Just done a Chevy/GMC 350 yesterday and it worked out just perfect. Put the pins in the bellhousing slid the transmission right up to the bellhousing in a single motion. If your pulling the transmission in with the bolts you now for sure messing up the installation. Most likely have a misaligned input shaft and forcing it to line up this is bad. Even when I did the clutch and transmission install on my truck on the floor. Same thing line it up and slide it all the way home. by hand BEFORE putting any bolts in the housing. NEVER PULL THE TRANSMISSION IN WITH THE BOLTS! SB Trick by Peter: If the clutch refuses to allow the transmission to seat. Install the slave cylinder. Have a second person to press the pedal down will the other now pushing. The clutch disc will come lose in the flywheel allowing the input shaft to align the disc freely.

Still got a rash of guys out there still dumb as a post and poor tuning rolling coal. I find at least 2 or 3 per trip that roll a huge coal over me just to show off. I just shake my head and think what an idiot. Most of them still listening to the stupid information that Edge Juice is the only tuner. Of course they have added huge injector to a tuner without timing adjustments. Edge Juice happens to be really good at rolling coal just like my old Edge Comp does too. The one that I can talk to I try to educate them and some do and other think I'm nuts that its impossible to have clean horsepower. If its not rolling coal its not working.