Mopar1973Man

Now I want to hear about the light and beam pattern. I'm sure you'll like the D2S lens over the H1 Mini lens.

Yes, this is true. Just be aware that Quadzilla can't read error codes. Mechanical gauges would work or even electric gauges. But The ECM must till be hooked up to all the factory sensors. The other thing is to be aware the grid heater will not shut off like they are designed. They require speed signal from the ABS computer so when the vehicle is over 25 MPH it cuts the grid heaters. Then grid heater post-heating is controlled by the battery temp sensor from the PCM. So grid heater functions might have to be manual thing.

Kind of doubt grid heaters will make it stall or cut out. Bad positive lead from the driver side battery to the PDC would cut power completely.

If I'm not mistaken it has to be fuse number 9 in the dash. Gotta keep power to the ECM and PCM to keep it running.

The only thing I can figure out there is the PDC fuse number 1 (50 Amp) fuse powers the fuse block in the dash. That has the IOD fuse 12 in the dash. Look back at the diagrams. The only thing else I can think of is a bad ignition switch why it randomly cuts out.

EGT probe and the red/white wire needs to be hooked up. The red/white wire provides the ignition on power during the cool down. It should be hooked up to the fuse in the dash. If the connection is weak the engine will just shut off. EGT's have to be above your set point for the engine to run on afterward.

Better off sending your valve body to @Dynamic let him upgrade it for you.

Replace the crossover tubes. That all you can do. All it takes is one crumb of dirt to be accidentally allowed in the crossover and it could partially plug it. I'm thinking of anything that could possibly limit fuel flow to the injectors. Being you need compression and fuel to make it ignite. Beyond that, the other side of misfire could be compression. Like one of the old time members here JL Welding, he spent quite a bit of money chasing a misfire issue to find out it was cracked piston. A cracked piston can pass a blowby test but will not pass a compression test which he never did. Ended up doing a short block and fixing the problem.

Kind of hard to do that... How did you open it up to check the edge filter inside? The outside is just part of it. The edge filter is INSIDE the crossover tube. Being that you reused the tubes, again and again, its a possible set of parts the could be a cause. As for the misfire when hot typically my first response is pop test the injectors. Now I wish you still had the Quadzilla I want to ask what is the fuel temp reporting?

It could be possible debris partial plugging a crossover tube. They are also called Edge Filters being there is tapered metal sleeve inside that attempts to beat and debris down to a size that will possibly fit there the nozzle of the injector. Rare but it could be. VP44 for misfire is rather rare to hear to nearly unheard of. Being all it is a pump that makes pressure and sets the timing. There isn't much for magic in that little case. It's up to the injector to open at the set pop pressure and fire the fuel as an atomized mist. The only thing that I can think off is crossover tubes and possibly the delivery valves on the VP44 but even delivery valve failures are unheard of. PSG failure could be but typically it just doesn't run. When does the misfire occur?

I've seen this happen quite a bit. The fuse age and the fuse strip oxidizes. Then get weak and cracks. I've seen a starter solenoid fuse crack that would let a guy crank for about 5 seconds and quit. Wait 10 to 15 minutes and it will crank again. I've had the same thing happen on my truck too. I've seen even the smaller ATC fuses do this too. Easy part for those is run the truck till it fails then grab your test light and go around all the fuses on the test point looking for one that is hot on one side and dead on the other. Short time later it will be hot again. The big square fuses you need to pop the clear cover off and look closely with a magnify glass or carefully with a small tool push on the fuse element looking for separation of the fuse link. Just be careful the fuse won't take much force.

Then most likely not an air issue. You can check with a piece of clear vinyl tubing for air but if the pressure is steady most likely nothing is wrong. You did buy used injectors, didn't you? If so that would be my first spot to look about rough running issues.

Here you go...

I really have a good grasp of how this works and how to get the best use from it. Max Load Timing Offset is used in conjunction with vehicle weight and/or weight towing. In a nutshell, your cruising along in your cruise timing and then you just exceed the limits of that now you flop over to the Max Load Timing Offset. This will retard the number of degrees you have set at this point. For example my economy tune... Timing: 17°, 20°, 23°, 26°, Max 27° Max Load Timing Offset: 1° Then my Cruise timing is 6° Normally cruise down the road empty my truck loves the 24° @ 60 MPH timing in cruise state. When I exceed my cruise load then it flips to the Max Load Timing Offset which now retards back to 18 @ 60 MPH. Now I hauled the RV back home tonight. Figured I would hold to my typical driving standards. I found that the Economy Tune works awesome but has a small tweak needed. I need to bump the Max Load Timing Offset to 2°. This is because when I'm cruising and roll into to the throttle and giving more power I started to buck a bit. The timing curve is just a bit to steep so the change to 2° on the Max Load Timing Offset made it quit bucking. My tow tune should be... Timing: 17°, 20°, 23°, 26°, Max 27° Max Load Timing Offset: 1° Cruise timing is 6° A guideline is more weight or towing weight you need to add more to the Max Load Timing Offset to pull bit more retard across the map. Empty trucks with no cargo can use 1° Max Load Timing Offset or less. More weight more you need to head towards 3° of Max Load Timing Offset. If you only experiencing the bucking at WOT then that RPM range that it starts at is the one that is too advanced. Might consider redoing you spread if you are uneven between RPM bands. Another thing I figured out that any Economy Tune that you truck likes the timing on can be used in just about all normal driving condition. Meaning that like my Economy Tune works great timing wise for Towing but need to tweak the Max Load Timing Offset and possibly the fuel map. So if I was to build a Performance Tune I would clone out the timing setting again most likely tweak it for less Max Load Timing Offset keeping the timing more advanced. Then just build a fuel map to fit the purpose. My suggestion is that if you build your economy tune and can reach good high mark like 20 MPG or better that timing set up is what you'll use for all your tune from here on in. The only time you'll possibly change that timing setting is with wear of the injectors and losing pop pressure or changing injectors outright then you have to find your optimal timing all over again. As for finding optimal timing you have to experiment to find the values that produce the lowest EGT and Engine Load values at a set speed. Like all my testing was based 65 MPH and built the values to give me the lowest of both. Now I will warn that you can crank up some serious timing advancement on cruise state but you need to listen to the engine there is a change of the rattle and the MPG will fall with too much (negative torque). My testing of the +7° was too much and lost some MPG from it. I will say 18° to 19° in performance timing (non-cruise state) at 2,000 RPM works pretty good. I will release a new version for my tow tune soon.

How about Looking at the final ratio? Tires sizes? So far I've got close to 378k miles and never broke a input shaft on NV4500. This is strictly because my final ratio has either been 3.55 or now 3.69 which takes the stress off the shaft then being I'm running 245's now the tire gladly break lose before the input shaft does. Now with my economy tune and the fuel map its limited to 30 PSI of boost which is fine. Still running the OEM input shaft. Even better yet never had a 5th gear nut issue either. Now what I have broken was my main shaft.

Yeah the standard Quadzilla is more than enough you can turn it up for 3700 RPM.

Give me a bit when I get home I can dig up the wiring diagram for power distribution.

Quick ratio for 265s and smaller. It just like putting bigger tires on 3.55 gears. You should only do this on 4.10 axles.

DAP uses both Industrial Injection and Midwest Injection.

Cracked fuse. As the fuse warms up it opens and drops the power.

Should be good. Are you seeing bounce in fuel pressure?

I do quite a bit with Diesel Auto Power. I've bought pumps from Vulcan Performance too.

What was you gap between your straw and the bottom?

My return is the filler neck then I'm old school draw straw. No sump and not using stock pickup basket.

You've got a FASS I'm an assuming you got the Parker Push-Lock fittings right? You didn't use any sealing tape or compounds on the threads right?