Mopar1973Man

I would assume a "Quad Cab" would required a "Quad Cab Cab Corners" An extended cab won't work because there is a no read quad door. Standard Cab wouldn't work either being the rear of the main door is the cab corner.

That ground there is NOT a circuit ground or sensor ground. The problem is on some models the PCM is screwed to the plate on plastic nuts. What happens is the PCM is isolated from body ground for the case. The ground strap was added to give connect between the PCM case and the body that all. The ones with the plastic screw nuts without the ground strap, RF noise and other noise emissions could foul the PCM. The strap was added to prevent this. I repeat this is not a circuit ground or sensor ground. PCM actual ground is Connector #1 and pins 31 and 32 which head back to the passenger battery. PCM sensor ground is Connector #1 and pin 4 which service... Battery Temperature Sensor Fuel Level Sensor Transmssion sensors (governor pressure sensor and transmission temperature sensor)

Mine did. I sent my first set of SAC injectors back with a miss and stalling issues. Less than 10k miles. Test out and sure enough couple where around 290 bar already. Then there was @pepsi71ocean 28k miles and around 280 bar with 28k miles. This is why I will not use the fuel module for suction and return both. This returns all the iar to the same confined space as the suction line. As for me I've got my return to the filler neck and the suction as a stand alone draw straw.

Don't base it strictly on miles. Remember time as well. Like the 96 Dodge might only get 3k to 7k a year. If I based on miles alone the 96 would never need coolant change for many many years. Like 20 years.

Newer the vehicle better the information. Like my 96 Dodge is extremely limited and most of the live data is odd. Like the 96 the MAP sensor is weird doesn't show real manifold pressures. So key on engine off it shows a weird minus pressure which should be vacuum but should be close +12.0 PSIa. Like the Cummins the MAP sensor doesn't report a real number either. I've documented that long ago.

Tough one. I've only got the Dodge Ram FSM's. Sorry to say nothing for jeep per se.

Simpler to just change the coolant and flush the block.

Mopar tool if I'm not mistaken is brass like a brass cap of sorts.

Bucking is typically too much timing advancement. You might want to post your timing settings.

I was cutting my teeth on Mopar 318 and 360 CID for rebuilds and Chevy 350 CID for fun.

NO ATF! Power Steering only. ATF is used in 2003 and up. This is because the Sagnaw boxes where replaced with Ford Steering boxes. So 2003 and up all use ATF for 2003 and up Dodge and Ram Cummins trucks with Ford Steering boxes. 1989 to 2002 is ALL Power Steering Fluid. NO ATF!!! These are all Sagnaw Steering boxes and require Power Steering fluid.

forum.mopar1973man.com was dumped years ago back in December of 2013. Back before that date, I was running vBulletin 4.2 (forum.mopar1973man.com) and Joomla CMS (articles.mopar1973man.com). There was a single app solution back then so the software was split up and subdomain was used to address both programs. Now after that date I move over to Invision Power Board software and everything was under one roof so the subdomain (articles and forum) where dropped after that point. There might of been old links on other places like CF etc that you could have got it from.

forum.mopar1973man.com doesn't exist. https://mopar1973man.com/ will work just fine.

Yeah it gets rather difficult on the mobile device but much easier for the laptop or PC.

With my average distance per year at 60k miles about every year or 1.5 years I'm changing coolant. Full block flushing with clear water and reload with fresh coolant. Basically, either test with pH strips or use a DVM and check for charge state in the coolant.

Make sure to FLUSH your system BEFORE installing. So do the fluid flush now to clean the system. Blue Top labels the gearbox clearing stating that if you pollute the new box with debris from the rest of the system your warranty is VOID. Then make sure to allow the system to drain completely. Then when you assemble make sure to use the new o-rings on the hoses. EZ priming... Have the front axle lift off the floor. Now assemble the entire system again. Now turn the key to OFF to unlock the steering wheel and slowly go from lock to lock on the new steering box. Check the fluid often. It with naturally prime the system without starting the engine. This will push the majority of the air out and draw fluid into the gearbox. Once the fluid is fairly stable go ahead and start the engine. Like it run just a little bit and shut down. Check your fluid if it foamed up DO NOT drive. Allow the foam to settle and top off as needed. Once it cleared you goo to go. WARNING: If you drive with the fluid foam up it will not pump properly. It may cause pump failure too.

Make you think. A/C performance I can hold a fairly constant 35*F out of the vents on a +100*F day. Heater performance 160 and better on 0*F day. As for heater core failures never happened yet in 366k miles. I replaced my OEM heater core when I found the solder joint of the brass weeping. I upgraded to aluminum heater core years ago at the same time replaced the evaporator that was leaking. As for heater core failure typically is because coolant is not changed often enough. Do NOT rely on the label of coolant stating some guarantee of 5 years or 100k miles. There is a problem with Cummins and the heavy current draw during cold start which is what causes the coolant to turn acidic over time because at 500-700 amp draw on the ground side through the block eventually you state to charge the coolant. This is why they say you can check with DVM for voltage in the coolant. As it start to drift in pH then the electrical charge starts. Now as the pH continues to drift now the coolant starts to eat everything. This is the thermostat housing on the 1996 Dodge 1500 which was factory filled coolant with distilled water which looked fine but the coolant was very low in pH and had a fairly good electrical charge on it. Yep it was eating everything including the intake gasket which eventually ruptured and need to be changed!

4K box has different hardware and software. It basically has timing tables to 4k RPM and rev limiter to match. Where the standard Quadzilla goes to 3.2k for timing (typically) and rev limiter to 3.7k. I've never played with a 4k box to see all the difference in setting but the little that I've seen it a favorite for track and dyno guys. It might be I'm not sure about the updating exactly from a older V1 box to V2. If there was wiring differences or anything. @Me78569 would know the exact answer. This is something I'm not sure if there are any boundaries that would prevent the upgrade.

It would be funny to find out it was a previous member here...

Correct there is the standard Quadzilla and then the 4K Quadzilla. @Ronniemx3 might of been better buying a new unit.

@Me78569 was building them for a short time.

You might have to search the map in your area and PM a few people get them started. I would like to encourage member building groups within there own areas.

Yeah it's a V1. Ask @Me78569 he would k,ow the answer.

Let me round them up and I have to get back with you on email and get your address. I've got like 2 or 3 of those floating around.

Could a ship you a few of those have you mill it down Please?