Mopar1973Man

Ceramic clutches are only good for racing applications. This is why I will not suggest ceramic brakes or clutches on any vehicle.

Should have an Android.

Yes. If there is no fuse or too big of fuse. Yeah, typo.

Again... Codes can't self erase till 40 warm up cycles occur. This means cooldown below 140*F and warm up past 160*F 40 times before the codes erase.

I would happen to agree with that being that the winters here have been getting cold since 1990 when I first moved here. I've already seen -20*F in New Meadows on December 11, 2018. I've seen -40*F last winter a few times. Just like all the forest fires up here. Flooded the valleys with smoke for months. Each and every forest fire produces more CO2 in on hour than our vehicles will create in their entire lifetime. What about all the greenhouse gas emissions from forest fires? Let's step up one more how about all those homes in Paradise Valley, CA that burned down? How about all the different toxic materials in a home? Where did these emissions go while these homes and businesses burned down in Paradise Valley, CA? Why are prescribed burns in the forest acceptable? No one wants to discuss these topics and generally dismiss them. Our vehicles are just a very small slice of the emissions problem. Heck, this one fire (Rattlesnake Fire) produced more emissions than the whole state of California could on a normal summer.

I've got to ask what fuse did you blow?

LOL. I'm the odd duck in the pile. Now my 2 story house here in Idaho is solar and hydro powered. Now my maximum load on my power system is 33 amp at 120 VAC which roughly 4kw worth of power. There is only a few thing on my system outside. Electric oven Heat pump / Air Conditioning Electric Drier Surprisingly, I've added a step-up transformer for my 220 VAC well pump. Then converted my water heater to 110 VAC 1,100 watt elements. When the power goes out I can float on batteries for quite a while if I manage the power wisely. This is one of the reason I do not plug in my truck for the block heaters it a waste of power to attempt to heat a block in the winter cold 750 watts per hour like chucking money in the wind . Even my PC's are set up for power management and shut down when not used. Then I don't crank up the CPU to max. I allow the process to run on the energy management side so to throttle back when it's not busy. Converted the entire house over to LED lighting. Huge saving here. Still, with all the work I've put into the power system here, my power plant not big enough to handle charging an electric vehicle. Sometimes it not about producing more power but how to conserve the power you've got. Total house load right now of (120 VAC x 3 AC Amps) 360 watts. Most of you can't live on that little of power.

More of this white stuff the less my power bill will be this summer... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxbow_Dam Oxbow Dam is a hydroelectric run-of-the-river rockfill dam on the Snake River on the Idaho-Oregon border, in Hells Canyon (river mile 273). It is part of the Hells Canyon Project that also includes Hells Canyon Dam and Brownlee Dam, built and operated by Idaho Power Company. The dam's powerhouse contains four generating units with a total nameplate capacity of 190 megawatts (250,000 hp). Lacking passage for migrating salmon, the three Hells Canyon Project dams blocked access by anadromous salmonids to a stretch of the Snake River drainage basin from Hells Canyon Dam up to Shoshone Falls, which naturally prevents any upstream fish passage to the upper Snake River basin. Even I'm doing my part with solar and hydro power.

My only problem is no matter what you use for nuclear fuel. There is going to be nuclear waste. So where are you going to dump the spent fuel rods? Problem with nuclear anything is the radioactive material either used as fuel or the radioactive waste material after the fuel rods are used. You have problems with tracking this stuff safely on public highways, deposing of the radioactive waste. Look at alternate energies like wind power, solar power and hydro power. Like a majority of Idaho power comes from hydro power. Clean energy with no waste. Now I would say that is a good choice but comes with limitations though.

Not a good idea... We can all glow in the dark like Japan still does.

I've got to ask the next good question... Who is paying for the power? What kind of expected emissions from increased power demands? I know I've been told by Idaho Power that our area of the state is tapped out for power production it barely holding the loads through winter time.

The ones that pack around extra tools and parts are typically the ones with all the roadside failures. Like myself, I've got basic hand tools but every single failure I had was beyond hand tools or what could be repaired on the side of the road. Mainshaft in the transmission broke. PCM fried after the alternator shorted the field lead. VP44 timing piston stuck full advanced. I've never had simple failures like belt break, hose leak, etc. Those things are dealt with during my monthly inspection. Not to mention I use an app on my cell phone call "Simply Auto" and track all my maintenance stuff.

That is way common for the rubber mat floors. Seals in the moisture under the rubber and never dries out. So the pad holds the moisture to the metal and the oxidation starts. I highly suggest against rubber floor... More common for body failure than carpet.

Heck maybe toss in OBDLink LX too in the pile. Helps with diagnostics and error code erasing.

I'm sorry guys... I tend to find all the neat and cool stuff hanging around someone yard. The sad part is this truck was sold. The current owner was getting too old to deal with it and having health issues. I told him I'd help him get it started so they could send a video to the new owner. Dang... My cell phone was in my pocket I had to share that same video too.

ECM can supply more power than the battery voltage. Most all functions of the ECM is just turn on and off the power to items.

No it won't. ECM and PCM only drop the CHECK ENGINE light after about 5 run cycles that do not report the error. ECM and PCM can only self erase codes after 40 warm-up cycles. This means the engine has to start below 140 coolant temperature and rise above 160 coolant temperature without tripping the same code again. This usually takes about month and half for most to happen. Highly suggest you just get an OBDLink LX and reset the codes yourself.

Still running the old school draw straw outside the basket, no issues to report 13 years later. There have been a few people with sumps here that had to replace the entire fuel tank which is extremely expensive. Because of fuel leaks, they couldn't fix. Sumps are OK for someone track racing but don't suggest them for street or offroad use.

Slow cranking is because of the brushes are worn out. There is a kit that Larry B's sells to rebuild that for cheap.

AirDog or FASS. Personally, I prefer the AirDog 150. 13 years of service so far only lost one pump head. Still pumping strong.

With 3.55 gear optimal the 245's are the best ratio for common road driving. Interstate either 235's or 265's are perfect. If you want the larger tires you need to start with 4.10 gears at least for everything up to 35" tire. 37" tire would be best with 4.56 gears. This is the big mistake of all because so many people put 35 to 37 inch tires on 3.55 geared axles then end up eating driveline and transmissions and can't figure out why. Then complain about MPG being as low as 12 MPG and EGT's are through the roof towing even the smaller trailers. Gearing is very important! I still love hunting down 3rd gens with 37 inch tires on 3.42 gears. They lose street races easy. Look cool but no power.

Make it gain a couple of strokes...

It's cool at least you asked questions and found out...

Only way to cancel post heat is to exceed 25 MPH or allow it to idle more 5 minutes.