Mopar1973Man

It changed in 2000 (IIRC) when it went to a single cam sensor and no crank. Might be time for a call to them and see if the ECM failed again or was it fixed correctly.

I've got a set.

Have removed the Edge Juice? Want to make sure the Edge Juice isn't fouling the signal.

At any point being the #5 injector has been tampered with, you need to just replace all injectors. DO NOT start the engine with that #5 injector installed you are asking for engine damage. The solenoid is a tuned piece on the injector and can't just replace it with any solenoid and just screw it on. There is a calibration process for that solenoid. Common Rail Injectors are NOT a serviceable part. Being one injector is damaged just replace them all. Being the other 5 injectors are shortly behind the damaged one.

First off lets get the real information on the codes. Now read over those quick that will help. Then as for P0216 codes typically I'm finding out that if you have good fuel pressure of 14 to 20 PSI them the timing piston typically fails on the lack of lubricity and binds up in the cylinder. Nothing can fix this issue other than full replacement of the VP44. This is where the 2 cycle oil theory comes into play.

Yes sir it is. Get both seals the rear seal for the transmission then the front seal for the transfer case. Be aware... I've done this on another truck and the seals didn't last at all. Make sure the bearings on both ends are in good shape. If there is shaft movement, grooves in the shaft seal area or damage you might have a leak till you make the proper repairs.

I've got a Prodigy as well good controllers.

Ditch your 285's for 245's that problem goes away.

Now I'm going to pass you over to https://smartysupport.com for a set of NEW BBi injectors for that truck. You'll have to talk to Brian and see what the prices are. They are currently still setting up the store and getting product vendors put together too.

Not much to 24V injector. The little washer looking thing is a shim next to the body. The spring is a fairly heavy coil and rides directly on top of the shim. In all the injectors I've messed with the shim will wear over time with the pulse of the fuel pressure popping off. Between the nozzle and pintle wearing and the spring shim wearing this is where the slack is gained and the pop pressure falls. As the VCO nozzle wears the nozzle typically becomes pissy and leaky at low pop pressure like idle this why some report a strange misfire at idle with a warm engine.

I'm the smaller moded truck of the group with the 7 x 0.0085 injectors, Quadzilla Adrenaline, and HX35/40 turbo. The biggest factor is the 3.55 gears and the 245/75 R16 tires I run. This now changes the final gearing to 3.69:1 and takes less fuel to make huge amounts of torque.

I'd say that true with the Gates. Not the NAPA. Weird but true. I've still got the Gates 200*F installed.

You on the right path take care of the weak points first then add your power accordingly.

I've got ask why not just replace the entire dash top? LMC Truck sells the dash top.

235 HP at the flywheel isn't much power. Like I'm also running 7 x 0.0085 injectors, Quadzilla Adrenaline pulls like a dream. Bad combo really. The 100 HP injectors need better control of fueling and timing than what the Edge EZ can do. Remember canned tuner like the Edge EZ are designed for stock only injectors. The timing needs to be advanced more for larger injectors and fuel curve needs a bit of lag time to allow for boost building. This where the Quadzilla shines over the other tuners.

You do not have the means to repair an common rail injector. You'll need to send that injector in as a core and just replace it. WARNING: If you do try to use a shade tree repaired injector you take the risk of melting down that piston. I highly suggest that injectors are replaced as a full set and not just one.

Roughly 5 to 10 bar drop. 1 bar is 14.5 PSI.

This is why I suggest NOT buying a Cummins thermostat being it is exactly the same as a NAPA except the price is MUCH lower on the NAPA. I can't see paying the big money on a Cummins when it no different than the NAPA same design just way cheaper. https://www.genosgarage.com/product/gates-thermostat-34212/thermostat This is what I'm running now and it sucks. Wild up and down swings in temperature.

So far the two NAPA's have worked perfectly. The 180*F ran at about 186 to 188*F rather solid and never moved. The NAPA 190*F ran like 195 to 197*F pretty solid and not moving. Now the Gates that crazy thing is up and down constantly like an old 12V 180*F thermostat. Like I said the return home is a bit better but still cycling. The Gates looks just like a NAPA in design the same large mouth design. Now the Cummins on the left looks like the old school NAPA thermostats that are no longer sold. Small mouth and brass bypass plug. Both NAPA... You'll see that the old school NAPA thermostat looks exactly like a Cummins. The upgraded NAPA has a much wider mouth. Old on the left and new on the right... Again old on the left and new on the right.

While you at this point make sure to replace or lube the pedal pivots.

Like my little 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 is starting to do this too and mine is simple it just the moisture creating rust in the drums. The first couple of taps on the brakes its locking up just barely touching the brakes. As for @The_Hammer I would say double check that ABS light see if it is truly on. Might be fighting another issue with the ABS system. If you do have the load valve in the back disconnect the arm and tie it in the up position. (IIRC).

Might read these and see if they help out.

Possible...

The only thing I can think of is finding the fog light ground and make sure it clean. It shows "exterior light system" for ground. I'm going to assume the ground at the front fender driver side near the headlight possibly.

I might give this a chance yet. My trip home the swings start getting shorter back and forth. Still swinging down to 192*F and back up to 208*F back and forth.