Mopar1973Man

That's because when you do shut down or even key off and back on while rolling resets the ABS module in flight. If there is an error or issue the key off and on again will cause the ABS module to reboot into the network again. Another thought is excessive AC noise can and will affect the reporting nature of the ABS modules speed sensors.

Master ground for the big 3 computers (PCM, ECM, and VP44) is the passenger side battery cable. As for W-T that would drop the AC noise for sure. As for the APPS sensor just monitor the value for sudden drops when it acts up or sudden 100%. Either way it will trip a P0121, P0122 or P0123 codes. The only other device that will dead pedal is the VP44. Again this needs the W-T ground mod for protection.

ABS module. PCM doesn't control speed data. The only thing PCM is doing is starting the CCD network. The PCM gets the CCD network going and ABS module calls out on the network its speed data. The PCM receives the data for transmission and cruise control. The ECM receives the data as well for controlling the grid heater cancel at 25 MPH. The gauge cluster receives the data as well for displaying speed.

You need to return the front sensor where they belong. Then you most likely need to send the ABS module in to be rebuilt. Basically, the ABS module is a frequency counter. It measures the pulses per second and displays the speed on the speedometer. There is an issue with the rear sensor for sure being you got the 2 front tied to the rear sensor which is most likely fouling the ABS module ability to count frequency. Module Master is $130 for the rebuild and has 5-year warranty. I've had my module rebuilt by them and excellent people.

Man, that is the way to go. Lowest voltage drop for the run to the starter.

I would get the copper lugs and solder on new copper lugs and use the military style battery terminals. The other problem most people don't hook up battery cable correctly. You need a terminal spreader and make sure the terminal goes all the way to the battery case. Then lightly snug it up. Most people barely get the terminal on the tip of the post and then crank down the nut, crushing the lead like it going to help hold the terminal to the tip of the battery post. Another way if you don't have a terminal spreader. You can use a rubber mallet and a socket and gently beat the terminal down on the post in a pinch. Be careful its possible to break the battery post from the plates inside beating on a battery. I know this is not a suggested method but for "in a pinch" mode you can do it.

Try dropping the pan and changing the filter and fluid? It could be plugged filter. Transmission needs hydraulic pressure to operate bands and such. If the filter is plugged it can't pump fuild.

I'll have my PCM repaired.

Alternator fried. I measured the alternator at 433*F when it popped. It took out the PCM I'm figuring being the new alternator is dead and not charging. Carrying tools but does no good when you don't have the parts to fix the problem. Fresh alternator and 11.2 volts. Nope, it's not charging. Failed on the field lead side being I'm going to assume the PCM is cooked too. Back to the 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 again

1st was when I broke the main shaft in the NV4500. 2nd now with the alternator failure possible PCM.

Never hook the fuel pump to the battery. Hook it up in the power stud in the PDC. I wish both AirDog and FASS would remove that from the manual. That is the dumbest thing I've heard was to hook to the battery or the alternator. Bad choices. I've seen what you talk about quite a few times and VP44 failures because the lead rotten off and the driver didn't see the fuel pressure drop or no gauge. Then the other is seeing pumps cooked because the alternator fuse blows and the alternator is producing way high voltage and burns the pump motor up.

My second tow home in 362k miles.

Starter issues can be intermittent. I can say if you go this route then NAPA "NEW" starters are a very safe solution. DO NOT buy the reman'ed starters they are junk. Compression issues and grid heater issues can show as getting worse with colder weather. Basically, don't have enough heat to make it ignite the fuel because either or both the grid heater or cylinder compression is low. Compression would show as excessive blow by typically. Loss of prime can show as intermittent problems. Just depends on the angle you park at.

Two reasons for slow cranking. One is starter contacts. The second is worn starter brushes. Long cranking typically is loss of prime. Long cranking on cold start could be grid heater issues, compress is low, fuel issues, loss of prime.

MAP and boost reading through the OBDLink is not going to show correctly. Here is a video on the ScanGauge II I had.

Give you an idea... I'm running 3.69 final to the ground I'm pretty quick now.

Possibly the grid heaters pulling hard? Go drive the truck and get above 25 MPH and check the voltage again.

As long as you take care of the VP44 requirements. 1. Fuel pressure 2. Lubricity 3. Clean DC power 4. Filtration

No different here... Hauling a 24V truck back south upgrade and snapped the mainshaft. Still, the fact is both the Nv4500 and Nv5600 have the same two top gear for the most part.

I love a comment from the Street Outlaws. "Spinning isn't winning". If you have built a tune that is so aggressive that you are breaking the tires loose you are overpowering the road. You need to build your tune and fuel system around the ability of the road and the truck without spin the tires everywhere or being so overpowered you can keep control of it. Yeah, it nice to build an all-out tune that put everything out there. I've got one too but it put some serious power down and the 245's tires don't seem to be able to hold that much power. Really... What most of your daily driving needs are much lower. Like myself, I use the minimum amount of wiretap on my daily tune 1,200us worth of tap. Drive mostly on the CANBus fuel map. As for timing you need to consider your 1,500 and 2,000 bands the most being that the range you spend the most time for the daily driver. Now with winter setting in I'm considering a special tune for just winter travel.

Above 0.2 volts is a fail for voltage drop test.

Still running factory Y Style. My OEM linkage lasted 350k miles. To this day mine is still tight using all NAPA replacement in the front. The whole problem typically falls on the oversize tires why the Dodge Ram steering gets sloppy. Never had that issue, never ran oversized tires. Matter of fact I'm running undersized tires.

2001 somewhere in the mid year some started working. This is not a guarantee that it works with all 2001. Just depends on if you got the flash to do it. Again its a random game on 2001.

This only works on 2002 trucks. 2000 and 2001 may or may not work. Most only report the PCM. 1998.5 and 1999 truck don't work at all.

That one is a good one for @Me78569