Mopar1973Man

Your welcome...

Time to bring in @Dynamic . I'm sure Jon would know what to do.

There is a jumper inside Quadzilla for setting the MAP sensor type. @Me78569 would know the configuration of the jumper.

I would most likely spend money on a Timken sorry... Just like I would most likely not spend money on Cummins parts either. Like everything I use has either been NAPA or RockAuto supplied parts.

I feeling better just being away from the hospital. I trying to get my doctor to leave me alone for a span of time I was just in on Friday last week and got home late Saturday. Then by Tue already try to schedule another visit. WTH? I can't heal up if I'm being constantly drug around with appointments and never home. Like I just off the phone with the scheduler I told her to back down give me some time. Geez...

1/8 inch air brake line at least 5 feet. PTC (Push To Connect) to 1/8 inch NPT. I'm not using compression fittings. PTC fittings are super nice you can just push the tubing into the fitting your done. To remove push the collar back and the tubing is released from the fitting. Examples... https://www.amazon.com/Numatics-PTC-NPT-FEMALE/dp/B00IOR27TI https://www.amazon.com/Vixen-Air-Connect-Straight-Pneumatic/dp/B0757X9YDJ

That is a problem of the Edge Product canned tunes. There is no way to anything to get the fueling below stock levels. This is something that Quadzilla can do you can cut 50% below stock fuel to control smoke and allow for smokeless boost building.

It's OK I need to adjust it down a bit more just haven't done it.

What you need to do is get into high gear and get up to 2k on the tach. Then read your timing. A good starting point is 19 to 20 degrees at 2k RPM on flat ground on cruise timing. You might read over my article on this.

Here is what I got...

Keep us posted... I'm curious. You might find out the Edge EZ burned up and quit.

Doubtful seriously. ISB engines will take quite a bit of timing. The thing is by the time you get to the point of bucking you should have already noticed the engine load is higher because of negative torque. This is why I limit my MAX timing slider to 27 degrees because beyond that point bucking starts. VP44 is capable of 32 degrees of timing. As injectors get larger more timing is needed. I'm going to step up to 7 x 0.010 injectors since my current 7 x 0.0085 have nearly 100k miles already. I'm after efficiency but try to match Nick and get the same number he did.

I would watch the live data. ECT, IAT and Engine Load. When the IAT falls below +80F then the ECM kicks in extra +4 degrees of timing roughly. Which might be too much timing for cold weather and high cetane fuels. Then when the IAT warm up above the +80F then the timing retards and the performance typically improves. This all can be seen with engine load and cruise control.

It's possible the MAP sensor failed within spec. In other would just stuck at the 12 PSI value. It won't throw a P0237 or P0238 code because it not out of range. Then it won't trip a P0234 code because it not over boosting. The only one it "Might" trip is the P0236 code because it not changing value and stay high long than it should. The P0236 code will not set a CEL.

@IBMobile Kind of missing a ground signal for some reason if there is +12V on both sides of the light bulb socket.

Then some of us topping out at 40-45 PSI with ISSPro EV2 boost gauge. This why I'm not a fond believer of the using the sensor on the engine for reading existing information like boost. The actual design range of the sensor is very low and not really designed to be above the 20-25 PSI mark. Because design wise the ECM would limp mode and defuel and throw the P0234 code. Now Quadzilla still does use the MAP for boost above but like my set up the gauge vs. Quad start to skew going up from 25 PSI and above. I'm using 2001 Map Sensor. Things should really get nuts when my 7 x 0.010 injectors (320 bar popped) get here...

No. Only Winterized #2 diesel fuel. Kerosene and some 2 cycle oil is a safe bet though. Band-aid but still usable.

Either electrically the sensor or wiring causing or the tone wheel failed. Like mine had a cliff at about 30 MPH and the RF signal would drop to zero. ABS would go nuts back pumping preventing me from stopping. Install new SKF wheel bearing and problem is gone.

Couple of winters I've been really close to the idea of buying a gallon of kerosene for anti-gel.

Now that I'm at home with a PC...

Boost fooler being used on the MAP sensor side? That will prevent the boost from going higher. ECM side should never reach 19-20 PSI if so then the defuel software kicks in. The only way to see real boost is Quadzilla or external boost gauge. Quazilla does the same thing, the ECM will hold back to about 16 PSI and ECM continues to fuel like a crazed mule that way.

Sensor needs about 5 foot of tubing from the snubber. The travel distance helps with stability and protect the sensor. Adjustable fuel pressure regulator you want to cycle the screw full loose, full tight, the reset you pressures. Some times the regulator sticks. Check ball and spring. It possible the spring was bent in a manner the prevents the check ball to stay centered. Then you'll get that random drop. I'm currently in this boat.

I would consider PacBrake more so over BD. Look at the one with the double valve.

You are missing a ground then. Take notice there is two ground leads on the headlight switch which the fog lamps have there own ground leg.

Out here typically all gasoline is black. Diesel is green and even the hose is green.