Mopar1973Man

The old 600 HP boundary is no longer a lot of people have passed the 1,000 HP mark with VP44 fuel only.

Right now I don't even have a fan on the engine running without a fan all together. 180*F thermostat barely get to 188*F without the fan climbing 6% grade. (Not towing). Now towing I'll have the fan back in place but I barely tip 205*F most trips over a grade and the fan locks and pull back down to 193*F and unlock before I reach the top. Long enough grade in might cycle in and out several times.

No, not yet. the 3.94 was more or lest there beta testing grounds. I would try going back to the 2.7 version and see if it keeps the setting. It could a software bug biting you.

Still in all, I've never had a temperature problem on my truck typically stay well below 215*F all the time even towing heavy.

Wrong vehicle. V2 Dodge 1998-2002 - Version 2.7 is current.

Are you set on the right vehicle?

Another way is to set up the EGT cooldown feature and see if the engine stays running after the key is turned off. If so both leads are correct. Might be time to contact Spencer @Quadzilla Power and ask him. @Me78569 might know too.

Head gasket... I just got done do that. Mine leaked at the very same spot.

No. They are not equal. All your chain store mowers typically are an MTD mower with a different brand name. Typically you'll get roughly 5 to 8 years from one. I finally looked beyond that and moved on to a Raptor Zero Turn which was more like $2,500 for the unit. Previously the chain store lawn mowers would fail typically with the blades or blade housings. Last one I had from WalMart I could barely clip a tree rot and the blade would twist up and be ruined. Now with the Hustler Raptor below that is build like a real lawn mower. Blades last a long time before needing sharping. Blade housing and belts are built strong. Then zero turn is the bonus. I can cut a 10 acre lot in just about 1 hour running wide open at nearly 6 MPH,

Make sure both red leads are hooked up. There is one red lead that goes to +12V battery and the red white that goes in the cab to fuse #9 if I'm not mistaken.

Double check to see if it a 3 wire sensor or 1 wire sensor.

I'm interested in how that goes... Keep us posted on that!

I totally agree. Most likely the face of the radiator is plugged with oil or mud. Then fan clutch is not locking fully. Poor thermostat function or no fully opening. Rare but broken water pump blades.

Umm... No. To be honest. EGT +50°F on the Quadzilla vs the ISSpro EV2 across the entire span. Boost is good 0 to about 25 PSI then varies as it goes towards 40 PSI. Drifting... ECT only report to 204°F and flips to -40°F. ECM limitation of the CANBus OBDII reports correctly. MPH is off by -1 MPH across the board. OBDII report correctly. I need to check the newest flash if it's fixed. (I'm behind yet! ) OIl pressure only works in early years. Doesn't function on my 2002. Not using the fuel pressure already got a ISSPro EV2 fuel pressure. The rest of the data like timing, and so forth is fine.

Yes sir. Typically I find that the piston start caking fluid from the hot days and heavy panic braking. Then I can re-tune the pistons to fit the caliper bodies. Seal kits are super cheap like $8 to rebuild a caliper yourself as long as there no pitting or rust forming. Being I started having fluid weeping on the rear calipers during MoparMom hospital time I just replaced the calipers on the rear and didn't bother with rebuilding also signs of rust damage too. I've still got my factory front calipers. No issues with them. Still got my factory rotors yet too. Only done 1 set of brake pads at 185k miles. I'm just about 177k miles on these brake pads. I've done the brake fluid flush last year but didn't tear down. I need to do it this year for sure very soon my brake fluid is already darkening. If a flush again now I'm sure all the debris will drop to the bottom of the calipers and bind up the pistons. Since most of the debris is heavier than brake fluid the only way to get it all out is pull the pistons and hose them out with brake cleaner. Sad but true.

Not going to gain much. The only way to get true cold air is pull the head and cut the entire intake manifold off and get rid of the coolant jack in the manifold. Even with the morning temperatures at +10°F I'm still floating 60 to 62°F at the IAT. I've pulled the engine fan out and tried the factory box vs BHAF and no change. Still the same. The fact is the intercooler does an awesome job of cooling the air. It the head design that brings the warmth back. So all the intakes and mods you want to try is not going to alter that IAT read till the coolant jacket is removed.

Ummm... that easy to explain. Wider tires spread the weight out more so traction is reduced on slick surfaces. Axle weight typically in the rear axle of a 2500 series is about 2,860 pounds so about 1,430 pounds per tire. Then figure out the catch patch in square inches and then divide up the weight to amount of square inches. Wider tires tend to float more on top, great for offroad usage. This is another reason I've gone down in tire size this, in turn, makes a smaller contact patch and pushes more rubber into the road on slick days. Yeah, you have to manage the power vs. your road condition. Typically when the frost is visible I typically drop to level 3 (no wiretap) I tend to get a torque shock as the wiretap hits.

Quadzilla Adrenaline happens to be the best tuner on the market for the 24V 2nd Gen truck in my mind. Extremely easy to use and extremely easy to install. Takes just a few minutes tinkering with your custom tune and you can be out making smokefree power and increase MPG without much effort. The only thing I would bring out you might still consider gauges. Yeah, Quadzilla comes with gauges be it really quite nice to be able to go headless and keeping the security of the truck up. Anyone looking in the window won't see a tuner or a screen like Edge Juice or Smarty Touch they assume the truck is stock and move on to the next target.

Cheater...

Yeah the vacuum method works awesome if you have the rig to do that. I normal park the truck nose up slightly and remove the thermostat and go from there. When the coolant is just about to spill over then stuff the thermostat in and finish loading with coolant.

Either DAP or Vulcan Performance. Both sell Industrial Injection pumps and Dap sells also Midwest injection pump. Both companies are Bosch rebuilders for sure.

Went out and bought a Laser / IR temp gun. Measured the gearcase top to bottom after 120 miles of driving. The bottom measured out at 89*F and the top near the sensor / fill plug was 93*F. Again. Verified and running MUCH cooler than most after 120 miles of travel. VERIFIED also the fill plug is hotter than the bottom of the PTO cover by at least 5*F. Heat does rise. ISSPro EV2 gauge reports just 100*F because the temperature is deed below 100*F.

Idle MAP reading is 28.6 at idle and maxed out at 37.3 which is only 8 to 9 PSI of boost. Needs more than minus 14.7... Lol...

Umm... this is what I did back on the Edge Comp and +50 HP injectors. Before even the Quadzilla or the +75HP injectors. The 245's let out more torque than the 235's did. This is nice because of fewer chances of breaking stuff again.

Still there is no replacement for good a-pillar gauge setup! Even I tend to favor the A-pillar ISSPro gauges over the Quadzilla Gauges.