Mopar1973Man

EV2 is programmable to set you warning light then you can program an accessory relay as well. Then they lighting is programmable so you can match it to you dash lighting level. The reaction speed of the gauge needle is programmable too. I got the EV2 to prove I could setup a electric gauge properly without failure. Yes I've got both needle valve and snubber. The air brake line is 5 foot long give good distance for water hammer pulses. The valve is just to close the line in case of failure.

Be aware the forced on mode might have an issue. Being the hi and lo pressure switches are now locked out. It would be possible to operate the compressor beyond the lo point and freeze up the evaporator or possibly operate above safe 450 PSI limit which is no explosion issue. Now if it was force on using the dash wiring now the pressure switches would be in the loop.

What is returned to the tank. What the temperature at least from the VP44. Remember the head is going to be 190-200*F. Take notice to the IAT and fuel temp they typically run close to each other all the time. Make it interesting today... Ran it to the point of seeing the low fuel light and 1/8 of tank.

The only difference between my mayo jar and this is the pressure is external to the system vs the master cylinder doing all the pressure work no difference though. Hook up the mayo jar, crack the bleeder, jump in the seat and pump the pedal. The vinyl tubing in the jar the tip is submerged in the fluid so it's not possible to draw back up the air and this can be done by a single person.

I'm hoping to jump into this task by Sunday and get mine done. I need to get the Cummins rolling.

310 bar is stock...

That's what your Buddy @JAG1 though about putting JAG1 and VP44 injection pump together. He made it through and got the injection pump installed. I'm sure we can guide you through the wiring just as well.

Compressor modes - MAX A/C, A/C, BiLevel, Floor-DEF and DEF. No Compressor modes - Vent or Floor. Outside air - All other Modes except MAX A/C. Recir Air - Only MAX A/C.

Think about it the head is heated to 190*F with coolant temperature. Now all the fuel bleed back out of the return ports on the injectors are running along the head to the rear of the engine being heated by 190*F temperature head. Then dump in the return line headed for the fuel tank. Now everyone went to returning fuel to the fuel basket. Now your dumping this heated fuel to the sender basket is its the first thing picked up from the basket is this superheated fuel. Now like my setup for long ago 13 year old first generation draw straw I keep fuel temps way lower being my return fuel is way away from the draw straw. No sump, no drawing from a basket, etc.

You need 14 to 20 PSI would rolling down the highway at WOT.

Lik this... This is a Vulcan Big Line Kit and kept my stock fuel filter with my AirDog 150. This way I'm double filtering the fuel. I also get to keep my fuel heater for winter time. Then my WIF light still functions like designed. The Big line kit allows for my fuel pressure gauge to be hooked up. Which my electric sensor is NOT on the VP44 it actually on the fender for a few different reasons. Water hammer, test location is easier, etc.

Only two things with an auto reset breaker. Electric seat and electric windows. Blend door on our truck is a stepper motor on the passenger side foot well that twist the blend door between cold (blocking off the heater core) or full hot (push all the air through the heater core). In this picture you can see the blend door in the full cold position. Look closely you can see how the door swing counter clockwise and the flap would direct the air toward the heater core.

The biggest thing in the future is keeping the truck washed down. Get the mud off the underside of the truck it will keep moisture (and road salt when applicable) to the frame and part and rot things faster.

What @IBMobile suggests is a way to have A/C compressor in any position or being able to shut off the A/C compressor in all positions then the 3rd position follows factory setup. That would be kind of cool to have. That is a problem I've never liked about Dodge HVAC setups the early 2nds allowed for that but later 2nd gen's when back to the old school setup. Now if we had a way to control recirc or fresh air door but that is a vacuum control.

Hence why he's got a second wiring loom and still has taken the time to install the new loom.

I bet money the armature brushes are too short (at least 1 is not making contact).I've got an OEM starter here with that exact problem.

I do something much easier. Mayo jar and a piece of vinyl tubing. Worked for years nothing fancy but it gets the job done without the price tag.

Oil is driven with Freon throughout the system so yes excessive oil can cause issues too typically blowing out the back of the compressor through the blow off valve.

High side after the condenser along the fender the entire tube from the evaporator to the condenser is the orifice tube.

Even a properly cut straw will such the tank dry. 13 years and still no issues. Just plain old draw straw no basket or anything.

The orifice tube is plugged. When the compressor is replaced the orifice tuber and the accumulator have to be changed. If there is black death in the system you have to flush the entire system clean. You'll most likely go back and have everything replaced again.

Let's just say Dripley's abusing his truck a bit. Maybe that turkey baster is just enough to keep you from trouble. I still suggest purging the system and refreshing the system completely forcing all old fluid out and refill with fresh fluid.

Most people take a stainless steel pot scrubber and stuff it in the holes.

I still highly suggest you get it to a shop and aligned properly you'll find out that you might be close but they can get it closer to correct.

No. Because even at 5 quarts it pushes out the vent on an NV4500. If you don't mind the smell and the constant slop running down the case you fine to overfill but it just going to push it out the vent. I just barely overfill even to cover my temp sensor in the fill plug. NV4500 is only a 4-quart transmission. 50 SAE is only sold in 5-gallon pails. Compared to $27 a quart for the factory fuild I would $50 a gallon now for the 50 SAE fluid. 19k miles left to go to 100k miles. on this transmission. I change my fluid beginning of summer. It got a fluid life of about 50k miles to about 75k miles.