Mopar1973Man

Think about it the head is heated to 190*F with coolant temperature. Now all the fuel bleed back out of the return ports on the injectors are running along the head to the rear of the engine being heated by 190*F temperature head. Then dump in the return line headed for the fuel tank. Now everyone went to returning fuel to the fuel basket. Now your dumping this heated fuel to the sender basket is its the first thing picked up from the basket is this superheated fuel. Now like my setup for long ago 13 year old first generation draw straw I keep fuel temps way lower being my return fuel is way away from the draw straw. No sump, no drawing from a basket, etc.

You need 14 to 20 PSI would rolling down the highway at WOT.

Lik this... This is a Vulcan Big Line Kit and kept my stock fuel filter with my AirDog 150. This way I'm double filtering the fuel. I also get to keep my fuel heater for winter time. Then my WIF light still functions like designed. The Big line kit allows for my fuel pressure gauge to be hooked up. Which my electric sensor is NOT on the VP44 it actually on the fender for a few different reasons. Water hammer, test location is easier, etc.

Only two things with an auto reset breaker. Electric seat and electric windows. Blend door on our truck is a stepper motor on the passenger side foot well that twist the blend door between cold (blocking off the heater core) or full hot (push all the air through the heater core). In this picture you can see the blend door in the full cold position. Look closely you can see how the door swing counter clockwise and the flap would direct the air toward the heater core.

The biggest thing in the future is keeping the truck washed down. Get the mud off the underside of the truck it will keep moisture (and road salt when applicable) to the frame and part and rot things faster.

What @IBMobile suggests is a way to have A/C compressor in any position or being able to shut off the A/C compressor in all positions then the 3rd position follows factory setup. That would be kind of cool to have. That is a problem I've never liked about Dodge HVAC setups the early 2nds allowed for that but later 2nd gen's when back to the old school setup. Now if we had a way to control recirc or fresh air door but that is a vacuum control.

Hence why he's got a second wiring loom and still has taken the time to install the new loom.

I bet money the armature brushes are too short (at least 1 is not making contact).I've got an OEM starter here with that exact problem.

I do something much easier. Mayo jar and a piece of vinyl tubing. Worked for years nothing fancy but it gets the job done without the price tag.

Oil is driven with Freon throughout the system so yes excessive oil can cause issues too typically blowing out the back of the compressor through the blow off valve.

High side after the condenser along the fender the entire tube from the evaporator to the condenser is the orifice tube.

Even a properly cut straw will such the tank dry. 13 years and still no issues. Just plain old draw straw no basket or anything.

The orifice tube is plugged. When the compressor is replaced the orifice tuber and the accumulator have to be changed. If there is black death in the system you have to flush the entire system clean. You'll most likely go back and have everything replaced again.

Let's just say Dripley's abusing his truck a bit. Maybe that turkey baster is just enough to keep you from trouble. I still suggest purging the system and refreshing the system completely forcing all old fluid out and refill with fresh fluid.

Most people take a stainless steel pot scrubber and stuff it in the holes.

I still highly suggest you get it to a shop and aligned properly you'll find out that you might be close but they can get it closer to correct.

No. Because even at 5 quarts it pushes out the vent on an NV4500. If you don't mind the smell and the constant slop running down the case you fine to overfill but it just going to push it out the vent. I just barely overfill even to cover my temp sensor in the fill plug. NV4500 is only a 4-quart transmission. 50 SAE is only sold in 5-gallon pails. Compared to $27 a quart for the factory fuild I would $50 a gallon now for the 50 SAE fluid. 19k miles left to go to 100k miles. on this transmission. I change my fluid beginning of summer. It got a fluid life of about 50k miles to about 75k miles.

As I went down on the 1996 Dodge from 235's to 215's. My next move is dropping from 235's on the Cummins to 245's. When you go from 265's to 285's your lower your gear ratio adding strain to the driveline or trapping the torque in the driveline. If you want MPG number you have to go smaller. Looking cool cost money in the reduction of MPG's. If you got 3.55 ratio in the axle you basically made your final ratio 3.43 to the ground. If you got to 245/70 R17 your ratio would be 3.68 to the grounds. High ratio is better for getting the torque out to the ground.

Remember if you return to the basket or sump your pushing hot return fuel closest to the suction of the lift pump.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/VAA706035M Local store has 5 gallons pails in stock. Very common supplied fluid used in logging trucks. Commonly used in all over the road trucks Eaton Fuller transmissions.

Your a rare one of the fuel boss guys never install the check valves and the stock priming pump.

I say don't. There is a legal issue with sumps (not DOT legal for bottom draw tanks). Then the risk of hitting the sump and ruining the tank. Once you cut that hole you commited to tank replacement if anything should go wrong. Replacement fuel tanks are very hard to find. @015point9 the point out of the VP44 is tiny. There is no need to increase that line. Left is the return.

Fires have managed to travel from my place to nearly out to New Meadows along the ridge tops. It can be seen running below Pollock mountain tonight on the way home that is roughly 10 miles south of me.

Typical normal range can be as low as 13.2 VDC to as high as 14.8 VDC. Typically most will see close to 14 volts. The battery temp sensor will change the charge voltage also bad batteries with shorted plates will produce more heat so the charge voltage typically is lower.

Somehow the 4th gen truck and this OBDII research I personally think is going to be the next generation Quadzilla...