Mopar1973Man

Looks like a mess.

Still got to replace both the blower be cause the bearings are bad. Then the resistor is failing for sure it will be all broken on the ceramic. As the resistor cools the fan starts again.

I'm currently working indirectly on the Rattlesnake Fire which is still currently burning out my back door in the back country. I've been doing the repairs for the local FD keeping trucks rolling.

We have them in our store for sale.

Hoses typically don't plug but the orifices in the booster or the steering gearbox will which are much smaller holes.

Any error codes? Could be an overboost condition creating this...

Ahh that explains some. Snowmobile oil normally cut with PPD (pour point depressants) which is naptha or another chemical that I can't remember now.

Pretty simple smaller tires or switch to higher gear ratio 3.55 to 4.10.

Ill jump on this tomorrow at home and give that a shot.

Time to change both blower resistor and the blower motor. The blower motor bearings start to fail and draw more amps across the resistor which now the resistor is randomly work or not. This is why you need to replace both.

Weird... Out here the snowmobile 2 cycle oil has much lower pour point down -50*F compared to winterized 2 diesel at -20*F. No plugging has happened for me all the way down to -40*F.

Typically 28.3 to 37.3 for value normal live tools can't math out real pressure numbers.

Needs to able to store files (logs), location for track mapping, device ID and call information part of location for track mapping.

Then most likely the ECM has already been damaged. You can try one thing but I'm not sure if it will do much good. You could go to a dealer and have the ECM reflashed and see if that fixes the data tables. The only other wild idea is to watch live data from the ECM and see what the engine load and MAP sensor are doing. It might give clues.

This is called limited pedal typically caused by excessive AC noise from the alternator caused damage to the ECM. First thing is to do the AC noise test of the alternator. Replace the alternator if needed. Inspect all battery cable repair or replace any battery cables that are damaged or corroded. Now you might want to do @W-T ground wire mod. This will keep the AC noise from jumping into the ECM, PCM and VP44 in the future. After all this done and the problem still exist you need to send your ECM in for repair.

I never forget this picture by Bosch... Then remembering that US fuel is 520 HFRR...

7 - Stands for the numbers of holes in the nozzle. 0.012 - Stand for the size of one hole in thousandths of an inch. I think Stock Injectors are 7 x 0.0063 (IIRC).

The guys here are on the right track. Fuel pressure is the key to keeping the VP44 cooled and happy so if your fuel pressure is 14-20 PSI you should be fine but if you're below this then you running the pump hot. Any error codes? I wouldn't replace the APPS sensor till you get good signs its the sensor failing like a P0122 or P0123 code. AC noise from the alternator is a common problem you might check the alternator on a bench for AC ripple. Then there is the ground wire mod which cures a bunch of this problem.

My last VP44 last till 243k miles and then puked by pulling full advancement of timing and still continued to drive me home 15 miles at a total speed of 25-30 MPH. The truck wasn't happy but it made it home. Of course P0216 code.

I just sent out a mass email newsletter getting members to update their profiles and member map pins and 911 Support database (optional). I have done this because I was seeing the same thing with all the new members coming in and some of them not even in the US. So I started asking some to add their pins. Then I thought why not just mass email the member pool. UK fuel is 460 HFRR typically US fuel is 520 HFRR typically VP44 should last much longer with the better fuel quality.

All you got to do is keep in mind the weakest link in the system. Constantly upgrade your weak points.

Dude... That sucks all that time to wait for a new truck and now it was destroyed by a hailstorm. Now you got to start all over again ordering a truck and pray they can get it done. They should be put a RUSH order on that being your last truck was ruined and waiting this long.

Yeah the last few trips down to Ontario, OR I've wound up idling extended periods just to stay cool in 100-105*F heat. Like my last trip down I was nauseous from the heavy smoke and got down to Ontario, OR and slept in the truck with the A/C going. Again there is no accuracy with the MPG displayed shows way, way, low talking single digit low constantly. As you can see my MPG logs are still fairly good even with extended idling. Nowhere near the 4-6 MPG that Quadzila is reporting.

To cover all platforms. Direct 1:1 ratio is... N5600 - 5th gear NV4500 - 4th gear 47RE - 3rd gear For towing up grades this is the coolest gear to use. 3rd gear will enhance the heat because of the long time pulling the grade at a slower speed giving more time to heat up. 5th gear from pulling with high torque in a overdrive gear will create considerable amount of heat too. 12-hour window. After that, the system locks out the edit. Prevent members from thrashing their posts.

Heck... If I was to go that far I would pull the 4 bolts on the back seat and then go all the way back to the rear of the cab.