Mopar1973Man

I would of taken it out and given a few good long WOT throttle runs to pull any air through the system. Just starting and idling will produces a hard start next round as the air collects again creates a hard start.

Lope could be caused from valve lash too. I had that problem and found I was bit sloppy about my adjustment and ended up being slightly too tight and it will create the same lopey idle. I would lift all the injectors back up and reseat them all. While you are at it check the top o-ring for damage.

Kind of like my perspective... 750 miles a week in the saddle. Little more lived in look being each day I roll its 13 hours in the saddle. Garmin 42LM, Cobra Radar detector, Gooseneck stand for the cellphone with USB charger and audio hook up for hands-free use. Exhaust brake switch on the stick that way the center pedal doesn't get used. 3 toggle switch up top is fog lights, reverse lights and my emergency red lights hidden behind my mirror. Yeah still got the broken windshield... I've gotta get it fix this spring.

Ok... Pictures say a thousand words. Remember these are OEM battery cables. Main battery... Now the secondary battery... Moving over to the house power system. Full battery bank notice there isn't any corrosion on these cable either after 20 years of service. Close up...

AGM and gel cell cannot be equalized charged. Charge rates that are excessive can and will vent moisture from the electrolyte. Once the cells dry out exposing plate material the cell is permanently damaged. Over 25 years battery experience. When the 8 batteries here cost $4,800 a set to replace you learn VERY QUICKLY how to make then last the longest. Equalize charging changes the sulfation on the plate back to lead material. It also stirs the sulfuric acid and distilled water back together and prevents stratification or separation of the sulfuric acid and the distilled water. Again this is something you cannot do with an AGM or gel cell. http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/equalizing_charge

Just like an alcoholic or drug abuser, you can blame anyone you like but in the long run only you are to blame. We didn't press the "ORDER" button on the DAP site. We didn't turn the wrenches to install said power enhancements. I know the truth. Just like @TFaoro he got the power bug fever so bad that now he had to buy a second truck because his powerhouse truck is ALWAYS broken.

My 1996 has that problem but not on the 2002.

I know the feeling.. That is awesome to feel.

Exactly. Ive seen brand new 2017 vehicles look like utter crap because the owner doesn't give a damn. They whine about how their very is always broken or falling apart.

Some of us have control of the power bug fever.

I'm not a fan of gel or AGM batteries. Being all my lead acid batteries last over ten years. Even then 4,800 dollars worth of batteries powering my house and never had a corrosion issues and life span of 13 years. I can equalize my batteries every month and top off the electrolyte.

My performance tune is 1600 and my economy tune is 1200.

Engine oil. What is the only two substances that can hold sulfuric acid? Plastic and glass. So what is plastic made from? Oil. I keep my post damp with engine oil and never have to clean my terminals.

P1693 code is just a flag. It tells the tech more codes on other module. So if P1693 code is present on the PCM then the other codes are present on the ECM. This also applies visa versa. Industrial injection is a certified Bosch rebuilder. All pumps today are rebuilt there are no new pumps any longer. As for updates @Me78569 is right.

I've got to Thank @JAG1 for the Husky liners he got me as a give for installing his VP44 in his truck. Then the Weather Tech vent shades.

Geez... That low in life being I had 243k on my last pump. Now replaced it with a DAP unit (Midwest Fuel Injection). I ran a full year untapped and put on over 49k miles already. Figure spring time I'd be road safe no more snow and ice. Then the warranty would be up as well. Slapped the stealth plate on and kept trucking. Best way to tap I've never had any wire issues or electronics issues.

Well, I'll admit my high beam are kind like the bottom picture. I can see everything in your cab even for a truck driver. Yeah, it happened when I tired and not paying attention the hi and lo beam both become a blur to me and seem the same. 13 to 15 hours driving makes for long days.

Sorry... That because I'm typically packing a 9mm on my side.

https://shop.retroshop.us/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=2G.RAM.RETRO https://www.morimotohid.com/ http://www.piaa.com/store/p/147-LP-530-Driving-LED-Light-Kit.aspx As you can see true performance lighting has a precise cutoff and doesn't blind people. Better display on a test pattern wall.

Here is my other Truck... Not a Cummins but it is a Dodge Ram...

I bought a name brand Mr. Coffee - Coffe maker. I bought the simple version of just the toggle switch still without all the clock and stuff to go wrong. Would you believe after barely 6 months the simple toggle switch failed? Yeap. It quit working. I wanted coffee so I broke out the screwdrivers to start pulling it apart. I'm greeted on the bottom of the coffee maker with a warning that there is no serviceable parts and you should not open the coffee maker which might put you at risk of a fire. Screw that... I proceeded... 4 screws are normal Phillips but 2 screws are Allen wrench. Are you kidding me? Ok back to the shop I cheated again instead of Allen wrenches I grabbed a T10 Torx screwdriver it fit perfect. Pull the bottom off pull the two leads off the switch mated the two blade connectors together crushed them tightly with my multi-tool. The wrapped it up with electrical tape. Sweet sound of coffee brewing... Now in days everything is made cheap and mostly made of cheap plastic. So next time I head to Ontario, OR I'll be buying another offee maker for us. This is just sick and wrong why doesn't anything last?

Actual that photo make me think of all the CHEAP bastards out there retrofitting LED's and HID bulbs in stock headlight housing. At least I spent the $1,000.00 dollars for quality lights (Morimoto HID's Headlights and PIAA LED Driving lights) and didn't cheap out and do like 90% of the public is doing. https://www.amazon.com/Dodge-Replacement-Headlight-Hi-Lo-Ballasts/dp/B01CFG588K/ref=sr_1_29?ie=UTF8&qid=1522364854&sr=8-29&keywords=2000+dodge+ram+hid+headlights https://www.amazon.com/Dodge-Housing-Corner-Headlight-Conversion/dp/B071ZTRR39/ref=sr_1_28?ie=UTF8&qid=1522364937&sr=8-28&keywords=2000+dodge+ram+hid+headlights https://www.amazon.com/Dodge-Housing-Corner-Headlight-Conversion/dp/B0736KRM1B/ref=sr_1_45?ie=UTF8&qid=1522364981&sr=8-45&keywords=2000+dodge+ram+hid+headlights https://www.amazon.com/Dodge-Truck-Package-Headlights-Ballast/dp/B012ER0YBQ/ref=sr_1_50?ie=UTF8&qid=1522365017&sr=8-50&keywords=2000+dodge+ram+hid+headlights The list is endless on Amazon of cheap $100 HID headlight setups for our trucks but not one of them is truly street legal.

As of 338k miles March 29, 2018.

Same here. Just tight. Never lost a trailer yat.

Stock and no front end issues or steering box issues. 338k and still smiling. Still straight as an arrow.