Mopar1973Man

What you need to do is find the wire at the Edge Juice module and unplug it and probe the socket with the key on and the voltage should be the same as the battery voltage at key on. This will verify the wire tap is solid. Remember Edge Juice performance is based on IAT and ECT temperatures. Colder on both the more sluggish it will become. Double check your sublevel setting on your main level.

I've got a fix for that.

Assuming you've got a stock turbo which would be an HX35 (54/60/12). It's about normal being they spin rather easy. Hard telling unless there is more data. Error codes? Any live data from the engine? How about your wire tap? If your wire tap is weak or bad it will create the sluggish performance.

I'm on the latest flash when was just updated about 2 days ago.

Weird. This morning tried again got the same 1,200 RPM without exhaust brake and turned ON the exhaust brake it dropped to 950 to 1,000 RPM for about a full minutes then amped up to 1,200 RPM with the exhaust brake turned ON. Ok, so it still works just has a lag to get up to full 1,200 RPM with exhaust brake on. Now after getting that all done. I turned OFF the exhaust brake so the cooldown timer could take over. Turned the key OFF and removed my keys. 30 Second later the high idle amped up and the truck refused to turn off. So I had to go back out tap the throttle to shut it down. Still got some bugs in there it's working but not great.

Typically there are few error codes with this. If you shift to 1st gear it will start from 1st gear again. I had the same problem with my 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 when the 46RE transmission started going south. Bad part was the transmission completely failed 2k miles after replacing the governor pressure sensor and solenoid. End up having @Dynamic rebuild mine with a few extra tweaks and now it a pretty aggressive transmission on that 5.9L V8 gasser. It tows good and drives like a sport truck now. So I highly suggest you talk to Dynamic and get some insight to what going on.

Wire gauge size should be based on AMPS and DISTANCE. Kind of like my solar panels in the yard are roughly 150 feet from the battery bank. It only 25 Amps at 24 Volts because of the distance I require 2 ought cable minimum to keep voltage loss down.

Can't you issue a FOR NEXT type loop to grow the fuel command without spiking? Or use a type of time delay to grow the fuel command? Because now the fuel is too short and exhaust brake warm up is worthless now.

Yeah. Apparently the sensor has a problem.

Ok, one last thing to try Unplug the sensor completely and start. Yes I know it will trip an error code but it should default to idle speed. I want to verify the actual idle speed. Is this one of our Timbo's APPS? If so could you drop over to the support ticket and send me a support ticket and we will handle a replacement Timbo Sensor.

Idle voltage doesn't matter. It's the angle of the sensor. It's a matter of getting the contact in the right zones. Again voltage doesn't matter at all! In idle position. When the IVS (Idle Validation Switch) is grounded on the idle position the voltage is disregarded and the ECM software for idle is used. So if the contacts are in the throttle position then the ECM idle software is shut down and the voltage is used to control engine speed.

Pull the plate back off and remove the Timbo's APPS sensor from the back. Now start again and see if it idles properly. If the IVS is seeing throttle position it will jump up in RPM's. When you release the sensor from the bellcrank it should idle normally if so this means the idle stop screw is too high and needs to be released.

Fixed the rolling high idle issue. It now cancels like it should. Now the high idle doesn't hold idle speed anymore. So once it jumps to 1,200 RPM and I drop the exhaust brake on it then it falls to 950 to 1,000 RPM's. The previous version worked correctly now this version the RPM's is sagging.

Why all that...??? We've got Timbo's APPS in the store...

Here you go... Awesome lights. The Morimoto HID are serious headlights and the PIAA are even brighter than the HID's and still street legal.

Tires and size. I ditched the 265's and went to 235's and only replaced 2 track bars in 330k miles. NAPA was my last one was really good lasted over 150k miles. I've got a lifetime Autozone now and I know it will fail soon. No grease zerk. I'm 47 so I'm right there with you...

Nothing a few phone calls and some deep pockets won't fix. My pockets aren't so deep now...

How I feel today. Taking on the internet world...

Well I'm over that hill and back to normal life. Thank Gawd for putting away small nest egg for this repair.

Going to Waremart and grabbing beer myself. Only problem nobody wants to drive to BFE Idaho. A/C work I've been doing it as a rolling shop for about 5 years. Last thing I want to do reclaim some of these system with black death then you contaminate your captured freon. Rather vent it off and use clean freon and fresh PAG oil. Not someone's reclaimed junk.

Kind of like I use only greaseable because of the fact of the short lifespan non-greaseable have. I get roughly 100-150k miles from greaseable u-joints. Non-greaseable u-joints I get only 20-40k from them. Being every 7k miles with my oil change I push the old grease out and new grease in. So far with all my offroad adventures and trailer towing I've NEVER broke a greaseable u-joint. With all the corrosive stuff on the highways is good to do this offen. Heck, I've got close to 100k miles on this set of u-joints.

I've got one 25 foot. I needed over 150 foot of snake for this problem. Not to mention as I learned today that a snake can be quite damaging too. If you have old clay pipes the snake has been known to rip them apart. Modern ABS plastic or cast iron your pretty safe. I remember we had some old clay pipe but wasn't sure if any was still left in the system when the septic rebuild occurred. Not to mention the high-pressure wash that ASAP used to power wash out the drain pipe used a Hotsy pump that raised the water pressure up so much it actually heated the water and made it capable of cutting through all the grease in the pipes. Something a snake can't do. He was also smart enough to put a camera down first and verify what he's chasing. Again after seeing the camera and it constantly pushing along a wad of old grease we gave up after only 15 or so feet it was just too bad to even see. After he was done power washing the lines 50 foot down the main line, not a problem it was clean as it could get. The power washer flaked off a lot of old rust scale. So we need to use lots of water to push that debris out.

I look at it this way every time a vehicle out here hits a deer or elk the first thing that is dumped is the freon. I'm sure that if there was such a big issue about freon it would of never been used in vehicles knowing every vehicle that has a front collision is going to lose all its freon instantly. Not to mention for sale to anybody with cash in hand which can be purchased in any auto part store or even Walmart. Another weird tidbit about R143a Freon... From Wikipedia https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1,1,1,2-Tetrafluoroethane Uses 1,1,1,2-Tetrafluoroethane is a non-flammable gas used primarily as a "high-temperature" refrigerant for domestic refrigeration and automobile air conditioners. These devices began using 1,1,1,2-tetrafluoroethane in the early 1990s as a replacement for the more environmentally harmful R-12 and retrofit kits are available to convert units that were originally R-12-equipped. Other uses include plastic foam blowing, as a cleaning solvent, a propellant for the delivery of pharmaceuticals (e.g. bronchodilators), wine cork removers, gas dusters, such as Dust-Off, and in air driers for removing the moisture from compressed air. 1,1,1,2-Tetrafluoroethane has also been used to cool computers in some overclocking attempts. It is the refrigerant used in plumbing pipe freeze kits. It is also commonly used as a propellant for airsoft airguns. The gas is often mixed with a silicon-based lubricant. So R134a Freon is used in Airsoft Guns, Canned air for cleaning your computer, etc. I hardly doubt that R134a is harmful to the environment nor a problem if dumped in the atmosphere. There is a stigma of the past R12 and R22 that was hazardous and would cause serious environmental issues and health issues. R12 Freon https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dichlorodifluoromethane R22 Freon https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chlorodifluoromethane

Eat more Jalapeno's that will fix that problem.

My old DiPricol gauges went 10 years. Now I'm on my ISSPro EV2 gauges I think 3 years now.