Mopar1973Man
Owner
-
Joined
-
Last visited
Everything posted by Mopar1973Man
-
Might be for making the same sensor universal to several other axle designs.
-
I apologize for being the Christmas Grinch this year... I should of been making some Christmas Artwork for the site. Most folks here know my life has been crazy and busy the last year now. Again sorry for not making the site feisty. M E R R Y C H R I S T M A S T O O N E A N D A L L
-
Vulcan Performance sells the big line kit for the stock filter to the VP44 injection pump. http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Universal-Big-Line-Filter-to-Injection-Pump-Kit-p/ffipn375.htm
-
I've seen this a few times where people claim that cold weather will produce more drag on a vehicle just the cold dense air. So just for the fun of it I went and did the calculation on just the air drag part of it. Not factoring in other loses like fluid thickening... Here is the formulas I used Drag http://www.thefintels.com/aer/dragcalc.htm Air Density http://www.denysschen.com/catalogue/density.aspx Dodge Ram Specs including Drag Coefficient http://www.pickuptrucks.com/html/ram_specs.html So using local information and building a test bed on this. Vehicle - 2nd Generation Dodge Ram 2500 truck Test #1 Winter (Column C) Stats [*]+10*F Temperature [*]90% Humidity [*]2,800 ft Elevation [*]45 MPH (Road conditions locally) Test #2 Summer (Column B) Stats [*]+100*F Temperature [*]10% Humidity [*]2,800 ft Elevation [*]65 MPH Test #3 Comparing both using both summer and winter conditions. (Columns E & F) Which this shows roughly 4.659 MPH difference between winter and summer condition will be nearly equal in drag. Just for fun compare 55 and 65 MPH...
-
Right here in your settings... https://mopar1973man.com/settings/signature/
-
Not that I know of.
-
NAPA thermostats all the way in my truck ZERO issues to date.
-
Return line gasket?
-
After losing 3 of the 4 wheels on my truck to cracking I sold the hub caps a while back to a forum member. I'm now on factory steel chrome 16x7 wheels with hub caps again. One ton is a different animal like most have said they typically get toss to the way side.
-
@ThunderThighs we are curious of your status on your truck.
-
Personally, I like the double filter idea the AirDog gives. So I've got a 3 um filter on the AirDog and then the Fleetguard 10 um filter in the stock filter. The Airdog is returning more fuel that the engine could ever use so the AirDog is constantly polishing the fuel clean. So when I'm changing filters at 50-60k miles now even the 10 um stock filter is dirty. So double stacking filters is a good thing to do and will protect the injection pump way better than stock filter could.
-
You could start with my Edge Comp look alike tune it will be a good starting point.
-
I've still got my 12 year old AirDog 150 going yet. Still holding 15-17 PSI of fuel pressure.
-
Midwest injection... Personally I would want a Industrial Injection.
-
I float 18-20 MPG with an average cruise speed of 60 MPH.
-
There not bad. Just a bit lower in MPG vs. my old +50 HP from Vulcan. Clean up very well with the Quadzilla tuning. I want to tap the wire but I'm holding off till spring and then my one-year warranty on my VP44 is over and it's my nickle.
-
No problem... I just thought it sounded too good to be true. LOL.
-
You might wonder the site more we've added a bunch more. Classified Ads, The store got more products, and I'm in the process of cleaning up the site some more.
-
We got them here but not quite 43 dollars...
-
I'm running 7x0.0085 +75HP injectors and starting the Quadzilla at 80 percent.
-
Shouldn't make any difference boost scaling is a wire tap setting.
-
I would skip Edge Products altogether. Quadzilla is the most versatile tuner for giving you the most control over timing and fuel. If you want to have the same as an Edge EZ either leave the wire untapped or tap the wire and use level 3. Either way your limit to the CANBus only fuel. RV275 injectors are not bad nice pickup of power. We are all experimenting with larger injectors and pop pressures and see how far we can go with a clean burning engine. I'm right at 327k today. I'm not scared of the power as long as you keep below 40 PSI of boost your not going to blow head gaskets. I'm running +75 HP (7x0.0085 DAP Injectors) and the Quadzilla (Untapped). I'm only producing 30 PSI boost with an HX35/40 turbo. Eventually, I'll tap the pump again and go back to full power which put me at a max boost of 40-43 PSI. These engines will take quite a bit. The weak spot is automatic transmissions and clutches on manuals. I've upgraded my clutch to South Bend Con OFE.
-
I would bench test the alternator first thing to see if it passes. Then Check the blue wire in reference to GROUND. Then check the green wire in reference to POSITIVE 12V. Ohms value will be meaningless being your measure a variable resistance.
-
Thre is only the blue and green wire on the back. The blue wire is a constant +12V source when the key is turned on. The PCM varies the ground on the green wire. So if the voltage is getting low the green wire gets more ground. If its getting over charged then the green wire gets less ground.
-
Here is a recent power usage capture by Idaho Power. We are burning firewood and also using the heat pump as well. I leave the heat pump set for 72*F on the upstair floors. The basement unit is turned off. @MoparMom is a bit thin skinned so she needs the heat kept up a bit more. As you'll see I can still keep nearly within my 4k limit of my inverter for the entire house. Not bad... Most of the appliances have been upgraded to energy efficient, nearly all lighting in the house is CFL or LED now. Water saver faucets and shower heads reduce the amount of time to reheat the water heater also reduces the amount of power needed to pump water.
