Mopar1973Man

I found a perfect way of setting this properly for your truck and Quadzilla tunes. This is the maximum engine load allow before Quadzilla Adrenaline kick out of the cruise timing map and switches back to the performance map. All you got to do is set your cruise for 65 MPH at highway speeds and monitor your engine load amount on the display. Like my truck is about 25% engine load at 65 MPH. Now set the Load Limit setting for maybe +5% higher. When you're traveling in rolling country it should hold on to the cruise timing just enough that small changes will not kick the cruise timing out but a fair grade will kick cruise timing out and switch you back to performance timing. Soon as the grade is over it should flip back fairly quickly. Excessively low setting will make it rather tough to ever get to cruise timing and degrade MPG performance. Excessively high setting will degrade pulling power on the grades.

Best bet is to look towards the Quadzilla Adrenaline. It will allow for your large injectors and be able to tune it to be smoke-free for the most part. Allow for custom timing curves for all your needs from daily driving, towing of all-out dyno runs. https://mopar1973man.com/forum/174-quadzilla-power/

Here is a stock APPS... Now a Wells Apps... Still seeing logic chips electronic parts... Then flop over to Timbos... Then there is the IVS contacts... No electronics for the IVS like Stock or Wells sensors use. The only thing Wells Sensors did was get rid of the rheostat and add a magnet and magnetic pickup for the position of the magnet. Still all electronic based to get the TPS signal and IVS signals.

Wait till you sober up and go next door to the "School of hard knocks"... It'll hurt even more...

It wrong period... If I was harassed by a Ford owner doesn't give me rights to stuff potatoes up his tail pipe. Wrong is wrong... There is no unless or exceptions... (Here comes the potato jokes for the Idaho boy... )

Can I get a room with you guys??? I'll bring the Whiskey...

You'll need a mirror to see in the hole for sure. Nope... That comes from the old school speedometer setup idea. Everything with RWAL or 4W ABS all get their speed signal from the ABS computer. Even my 1996 Dodge 1500 still the same thing speed sensor is in the rear diff housing top. Funny the weird things that break without speed signal. Grid heaters don't shut off during road travel. Cruise Control doesn't function High idle will not cancel for movement. Speedometer / odometer function VP44 idle function doesn't step down like typical at stops. Trip computer doesn't work. ABS failure (light tripped).

Dumb thought after resolving a strange lope issue. Check your valve lash maybe too much gap.

OK... Talked to Ryn at BlueTop Steering... Great man and knows his stuff. There is one small difference between the steering boxes. It's the input shaft seal. The early version has a dust seal and pressure seal. Where the later version has single dust/pressure seal. So I've got to get him a picture of the input shaft and he'll get me the complete seal kit for my box. Blue Top Steering Gear Inc. 701-301-1256 Ryan@bluetopsteeringgears.com @Wild and Free He called you out by name and mention the time you worked together at the coal mine.

So you are better off uploading your photos right here on the site. Just drag and drop on the bar below the message box.

Not that I know of up here in Idaho. Way too many Dodge owners up here and most packing firearms you'd be a fool to attempt this. Especially around hunting season here and everyone carrying rifles and pistols. \ NOTE: I promoted this to the Facebook and Twitter pages so it will get more coverage.

First off verify my torque specs for the nut. Second off you'll have to buy the two special sockets for torquing that nut down which are not cheap. So for the whole 5th gear nut issue. my OEM transmission lasted 262k miles till I BROKE the mainshaft at the 3rd/4th syncro. I've never had a 5th gear nut issue and towed plenty of highway miles.

Most of the problem for the 5th gear nut is most people don't know the proper torque spec. Hammer and chisel is not proper torque spec. Also factory shaft is like 460 ft/lbs and upgraded shaft the nuts is torqued to 600 ft/lbs. (IIRC... )

You could try Dash Command. It's got a good app for that...

I'd love to have a set of those mirror but never have the extra cash to go out and buy the heated and electric mirror set up. No I will not do just manuals that is lame I've seen several truck like that and having t jump in and out readjusting mirrors if you flip the mirror up or down. Real PITA.

Ummm... First off the speed sensor is in the rear differential housing at the very top. Then the signal is fed to the ABS computer. After that the signal is set over the CCD Network to the PCM, ECM, and cluster modules. The sensor of the tail shaft of the transmission is for the speed sense for the PCM for transmission control and has nothing to do with the speedometer. There was also another member here that had the carrier bearings in the rear diff fail and the whole carrier moved over pushing the tone out of the path of the sensor and speed signal was lost. This is because there is no signal from the ABs computer on to the CCD network. This is because the ECT lead is shorted to ground. That's based off the battery temp sensor so if the battery are warm and you are in a warm climate the charge voltage will be lower. This is because of the update rate of the ScanGauge II and the dash. Being the dash is updated faster the ScanGauge II is always behind on information.

That's what screwed me up too. I stopped by the dealer I bought the truck from and they don't sell the kit either but could tell me if the box in my truck is the same as the box in 2001 truck. I've checked NAPA and Autozone both and neither store sells a master seal kit for a 2002 truck. Only a input shaft seal kit or a output seal kit. Now get them to check the book 2001 they do sell a master seal kit. Now the dealer says that there might be enough difference internally that the kit might not work. I'm not buying a new gear box. Not happening. Seal kits as low as $27 and the knowledge to rebuild the box is priceless... I'll give Ryan a call today at BlueTop maybe he can get me the seal kit.

DO NOT SET the IVS VOLTAGE for the OLD APPS SENSOR. You must set it according to Wells instructions. Better yet get a Timbo APPS and leave all the voltage setting behind. There isn't any voltage calibration only bell crank angle. Timbo's APPS is a fully mechanical design and has ZERO electronics for the IVS. No logic chips nothing to fail other than the rheostat from wear. I'm over 6 year old and still going on a Timbos. Wells uses a logic board like the Stock APPS for IVS setting. So you still dealing with electronics and electronics failure which like your previous sensor the P0121 was because the voltage and laogic state where invalid. So all it takes ia a little AC noise and your APPS sensor will fail as well.

Is this full release update? I'd like to clear up this low end miss studder.

Still learning every time something screws up or fails.

Can some one verify if all steering boxes where the same from 98.5 to 02? It seems seal kits for just the 02 are not available but a full kit is available for 01. If they are the same ill just order a 2001 seal kit.

Rancho 5100 here over 150k miles still rides great and not leaking either.

Because you have to $400 a year to link photos on other sites.

I'd like to see you injectors after all that. The ash build up should be nasty...

Here is what Dash Command is providing... The second page (tab) is showing the use of gears and how long I used each one and also if I used the wrong gear too for how long. Still this is uncalibrated I'll be doing the calibrate process when I get down to Ontario, OR today. My numbers are bit low being I did tow a trailer this weekend. I hauled my ATV out for afternoon ride before the all week long rainstorm came along. I really doubt you going to have this much info...