Mopar1973Man

Your communication problems are between the VP44 and the ECM. You need to to do the ohm test on the wiring to verify there is 0 ohm from end to end. Then infinite ohm from open sockets to ground. Power issues can produce P1689 codes too but typically the truck doesn't start or run but does set the error code.

My bad...

I highly suggest against creating new grounds and wiring... The ECM, PCM and VP44 get their ground from the passenger battery.

Ummm... Stock head bolts... No leaks... Change up again on my tune again I came down a degree in cruise timing and changed my span of timing over RPM again.

True... My ISSPro EV2 is working just fine. I've only replaced my pyrometer under warranty. Fuel pressure gauge wise I've got a 0 to 30 PSI gauge. Then using the programming cable and software I programmed the gauge to trip the warning light when the fuel pressure falls below 13 PSI. Then make sure to remote mount the pressure sensor do not install into the tap point. I'm sure that fuel pressure sensor failures will occur.

What was the test results?

Just make sure you adjusting the voltage properly. Do not adjust the voltage to match the tag voltage you want to be BELOW the tag voltage a little bit.

The only other idea was the speed sensor on the tail shaft of the transmission. Did you try that?

PDC = Power Distribution Center It will be hooked to constant +12V. I don't have all the corroded wiring and wiring rotting off the battery terminal and shorting out. Being hooked in the PDC power stud the wires don't get damaged from venting battery acid vapors. I can still jump start vehicles without all the wire hair hanging off the battery terminals.

Same here... It's nice to have firewood around the corner from the house and easy to get. Might consider a heat pump system. I'll admit I paid $13,000 for the system I've got in the house here. It's a ductless system and uses modular heads. So far I'm closing in on a year of ownership and love this unit. There are a few things about it that is rather strange but have heat and A/C in this house for the first time is awesome. Power bill is up some but nothing crazy. Really???

I don't hook anything directly to the battery. All my power stuff is hooked up at the PDC. The stud on the left side is power. Don't use the right stud if the alternator fuse blows it will fry everything. Ground I just use a body ground. There is ZERO reason for anything being hooked up to the battery.

No. There is no fuel pressure sensor on the ECM or engine. It can only read the available sensors by the ECM. For sure the 2000 series tunes.

The whole problem the gauge needs to have about 6 feet of hose on it. The gauges for rent from part stores are typically about 1-2 foot long. This will not work being you need to measure fuel pressure at highway speed and loads. Idle fuel pressure will show typically higher than what is road speed loads will. Like this one would do the job... http://www.vulcanperformance.com/VPMAX-Fuel-Pressure-Tester-Test-Gauge-Schrader-p/fpt.htm At that rate you would be best to just install a fuel pressure gauge in the cab and be done...

I've got at least 3-4 cords of large ponderosa pine rounds out in the yard. I just wish I had more time to split wood and had the help to stack it. Sad part is now it's too late to stack the wood in the shed it would block access to my dry wood being everything in the yard is now frozen wet.

I hope in the future I can get lucky with a relationship as well. All mine have failed in a short order. Someday I would love to married. But I'm trying to be patient but...

Seat heater element is either shorted or open.

Firing order is... 1 5 3 6 2 4 So It's going to be firing on the back 3 cylinders. The front 3 cylinders should be dead. On my truck the front 3 cylinder you can touch the manifold. The rear 3 cylinders are typically floating around 900*F with my exhaust brake on and typically crossing the 170*F coolant shut down in under 10 minutes.

Not bad its all day project for a newbie. I do them now in about 4 hours. https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/54_cab-interior/hvac-case-removal-r320/

So you can replace the battery cables without cutting the cable or replacing the entire loom.

I just put dielectric grease on all the plugs after 15 years still working just fine.

Here is the thread above about @Me78569 running 330 bar injectors. Then there are the stock specs for injector pop pressures. 4500 PSI +/- 250 turns out 293-327 bar.

I live this kind of life now up here in my area. Yeah, I might have internet but no cellphone. Power, I'm all set for power outage being I've got solar, hydro, and battery power. Water and sewer for me are all self-contained here. Water is pumped out of my well and sewage is handled in my septic tanks and drain field. I'm way ahead of most people. I'm already used to the idea of being in the forest alone and traveling the back roads of Idaho to get places.

Even my four 100w bulbs didn't have enough heat at near zero temperature to keep the snow and ice from freezing to the lenses this last winter.

Just be aware if you drill a hole in the cap it just means a better chance of getting water in your fuel. The tank is a spring loads check ball so it typically held shut so chances of water entering is rare. So using soft wire and compressed air you should be able to free the dirt and blow it out.

I'll most likely stick with white lights. I know these will fit where the normal factory fog light typically is installed. I've been out measuring and seeing what I can make fit. Time to say good bye to... They worked good for all these years but time to upgrade to way better lighting. I have to say thank you to few people once again @Me78569 and @jlbayes for jumping into the HID lighting game to make me reconsider lighting. Now that I'm digging I'm finding better options and better quality lighting than most people are buying. Yeah I'll admit HID's are expensive to have them ready made for your truck but even the LED driving lights are expensive too but high-quality optics, polycarbonate lens, and reduced electrical load on the alternator it a win-win. I'm not seeing any end in sight for my travels. Till we find a dialysis nurse for Mom I'll continue to make my 250-mile trips to Ontario to keep her alive...