Mopar1973Man

Tuesday's run to Boise for @MoparMom I was following another vehicle which slowed down quickly and steered clear of a wandering skunk. I had little choices for avoiding the skunk. So I mashed on the brakes and come to complete stop so I didn't crush the little fella. Sad to say he sprayed the entire front of the truck with his scent. I've learned that the scent is a oil based material and very powerful smell. As for where I was sprayed across the front bumper and grill as well as under the truck in the engine area. Now the purple degreaser works awesome for cleaning that stuff off the chrome and grill just rinses right off with a power washer and the degreaser. I did do some reading that if the spray gets on the paint you might have to repaint the vehicle because the scent/spray will actually penetrate all the way to the metal. https://www.drbeasleys.com/blog/2014/09/05/mystery-behind-skunk-ruined-new-car/

4" is plenty... 5" is overkill. I'm still running 3" without a single issue. Mileage tuner... LOL I'm still fighting to figure out the best mileage tune. I do know that IAT temperature is very important to that MPG number. Always doing better on hot days than cold days. Timing plays a roll too but how much and when is the questions I'm still trying to math out. For MPG reasons you want an IAT temperature between 100 and 140*F for optimal running. Cold Air when it falls below 80*F IAT it takes a rather good hit to the numbers.

It would be in the output shaft of the transmission. I would follow @Dynamic suggestions on the governor pressure solenoids.

TV cable is easy to set according to the FSM books you just need to make sure they move together. So start with excessive slack in the cable and keep tightening till the cable just starts to move together and should move through a full range of movement with the throttle so if the throttle is WOT the throttle valve on the transmission should be wide open as well.

@joecool911 PM sent...

Never heard of that one?... Double stacking seals? Is there enough room to do that safely?

Try here... http://www.lmctruck.com/

Also, check the output speed sensor it could create an issue too if it's failing.

I did not bother with balancing but it does run smooth as silk after the rebuilding with new u-joints and the centering ball.

Hard call on the photo. I've got an updated case but the hole seems smaller. I'll have to dig up that photo. @dripley yes that is the KDP (Killer Dowl Pin). Just look closely if the dowel pin can slide out if so you should tab it. I'm never thought of deforming the hole.

Hua? The green and blue wires on the back of the alternator. No tools needs just squeeze the release tab and pull. The alternator fuse you'll need an 8mm socket to remove.

@dripley just keep in mind the front seal is a dust lip and tends to cut into the crank. Now the polished ring behind is the actual oil seal riding area. So that groove your pointing at is caused from all the dust piling up at the front dust lip. Even mine had a groove too. I just installed another seal and moved on.

With a good fuel system, I idle a17 PSI and drop to 15-16 PSI WOT at nearly 100 MPH. This depends on fuel temperature. Warmer the fuel the better it holds pressure.

There are some of us without TV and can't watch it. The only time I watch the show is when I find them on YouTube.

Since I've got an aftermarket stereo the lead is not in use in the adapter plug so I used it for all my dash lighting for my aftermarket stuff. This lead goes to my terminal block at the knee bolster on the driver side then branches out and powers gauge lighting.

I imagine it's possible being the chain store tensioners could have plastic bushings and other soft metals that may fail rapidly. As for the tensioner I got from NAPA it pretty beefy design and I've checked it for movement. Now as for the tensioner movement look towards a deformed belt. Like my belt has a small spot where the arm wiggles as it passes by every revolution.

Turn the belt around backwards and try again. That's how I fixed my squeak.

Left hand threads for the fan clutch. So it reverse.

Here you go.

Yes sir.. 1/8 inch air brake line.

Mine is remote mounted to the driver side fender. This gives time for the pulses to fade over distance. Then if you have to test the gauge you can add a test and add your test gauge. Easy access and way less problems.

Yes.

Typically there is a spring that holds the lower half of the basket down in the tank bottom. I would consider going to a drawstraw or something else if the basket is damaged. You only going to fight that problem over and over. You could order the Jeep basket from Vulcan Performance.

It does hurt the gauge or gauge senders. Closer you are to the VP44 the stronger the water hammer pulses are and the more damage it does to the gauge. Don't hurt the VP44 one bit but get rather expensive to constantly replacing gauges or senders.

The owner called me today and had a p0232 code. Truck runs fine but can't erase the code. Unplug the VP44 and still, the code remains. Now if he removed the fuel pump relay in the PDC it would erase the code but return instantly if the relay was plugged back in. This owner also admitted to having a BD noise filter as well. I told him to test the alternator for excessive AC noise. Back to the VP44 code, he mentions he had a second pump. So I had him just plug it in without installing the pump and the code erased and stayed out. So again another AC noise story that ate a VP44 because the owner was battling the torque converter lock up issue and ate the VP44 with excessive AC noise.