Mopar1973Man

Just heads up most injector builders will set the pop pressure at 300 to 305 bar. The minimum is 293 bar (4250 psi). I've seen injectors drop 20 bar in less than 20k miles. Remember stock is 310 bar (4500 psi). 320 bar is 4641 psi. Even in cold weather starts easy.

Getting marginal. I'm in the realm now with my 7 x 0.010 with my injectors. Torque converter is too tight. When the ATF is cold the viscosity is higher of course. So when you start it up and drop into gear the torque grabs that cold fluid and stalls. I've seen this with several different members like @pepsi71ocean is the first off the top of my head that pops up that had similar issues with low stall converter install.

Ok, high idle after being fully warm is typically an issue with injectors popping too low. Do me a favor and check again. If idling and the idling is high like that watch the engine load if it at ZERO the injectors are done. What I mean is the pop pressure is so low the ECM is attempting to cut fuel to keep idle at 800 RPM but since the Engine load bottomed out it will idle high. SECRET: This is why when I had my 7 x 0.010 injectors built I opted for the pop pressure to be set at 320 bar it will extend the life span of the injector. As the pop pressure falls below the 293 bar which is minimum pop pressure as state by the Dodge FSM the Engine Load will continue to fall by the time its around 270-280 bar the engine load will bottom out. Coolant temps in the cold up here I will run down the pavement at 195°F but come to a stop and idle for 1 minute mine will drop in the 180 range quickly with the heater running. SECRET: If you unplugged the ECT sensor and had a proper range rheostat and increased the resistance so the temperature dropped back to near -40*F it will increase idle speed. Note this start down around below +60°F coolant temp if I remember correctly. Yup, I've played with the sensors and values quite a bit.

Give a few examples... Hauling my RV over to Pittsburg Landing road is speed limit to 15 MPH. Trans temp was reaching 240°F climbing and even continued to be hot going down the back side still at 15 MPH. Trip to Bridgeport CA I was bucking head winds at 60 MPH hauling the RV trans temp would climb to 200°F I would back down to 50 MPH and drop to 4th and it would cool right off. Summer time running empty at 80 MPH on I84 towards Boise ID and trans temps would rise heading towards 200°F but as soon as I hit 65 MPH speed zone it would start to drop back towards 150-160°F which it normal. Like now with winter time and cold temps it takes a long time to rise off 100°F mark and barely gets over 110°F on 70 mile round trip to McCall. As for the miles I've traveled with 50 SAE trans fluid no shift issues. Smooth easy shift typically shift with 2 fingers. Doesn't matter the temp outside. Doesn't impact shift performance at all. All the myths of syncro damage. Nope... Doesn't affect the syncros at all.

Lewiston is only 2.5 hour drive for me. Funny thing is I've never been to the race track.

Here is the key question do you have a transmission temperature gauge? You'll never know till you do. During the summer I can be near 200°F empty on the highway. Ignorance is bliss if you know what I mean. After the first failure I installed the gauge and found that thin fluids are not going to hold up. Faster you go the hotter it gets. The heavier your loaded the hotter it gets. Now consider loaded and traveling fast it is even hotter than the either. Till you have a gauge you'll never know.

NV4500 is 4 quarts of transmission fluid has to be at least GL-4 but not GL-5 also a synthetic.I suggest away from any thin fluids like the factory 75w-85, PennzOil Syncromesh, etc. It you work your truck and haul heavy loads I suggest you get something a bit thicker. For my truck I'm typically on dirt roads hauling firewood up and down steep grades ranging from 7% to at least 16% grades. Just to give you a sample just hauling over to Pittsburgh Landing on the Snake River with my RV the road speed limit is 15 MPH and there is little to no air flow under the truck, I've got a heat shield between the exhaust and gear box. Still push well past 220*F even running down hill. 75w-85 will turn to water and will not protect the gears faces. Hence why I broke input shaft gear, counter shaft gear, 5th gear (both). When things get hot you need thicker fluids to protect.

Westach looks like aircraft gauges...

Sorry @JAG1 your not getting it that easy... I will admit I would love to actually get a look at it in person and then a ride and feel that old school power. I had to go back and look at the starting date of this thread which was March of 2014. That is 9 years in building this custom truck. I'm sure @PilotHouse2500 is going to want to play for at least a few years after its done.

Same here... ISSPro EV2... Boost Pressure Fuel Pressure Pyrometer Trans Temp What I found on Quadzilla... Boost pressure is not true and varies the higher in pressure it goes past 30 PSI. By the time ISSPro shows 53 PSI the Quadzilla is showing 69 PSI. Tried two MAP sensors 2002 and 2001 sensor. Pyrometer is not exact but close its about +50*F for the most but can be off as high as 150*F at the high end. Even changed probes still has the offset. Boost on the Quadzilla is only good to verify the MAP sensor function. I would not trust it for racing purpose being above 30 PSI the accuracy is gone.

So is my Honda Rancher its fuel injected too. But I know my fuel pump and how the system works so it will run for quite a while with the fuel in the pump. Once the fuel system is dry then I'm good. I've had to pull apart the fuel pump to clean the filter strainer. It holds quite a bit of fuel but the filter is made from plastic.

Yup... It a front tilt hood. Opens like a semi-truck. Stellar...

Yup. Factory service manual covers the capacities of the truck entirely...

2006 I installed the AirDog 150. About 250k miles later the pump finally gave up and the pump seals failed and ate the bearing and failed. I was warrantied by AirDog and given a 3rd Gen pump head 150 GPH. It barely lasted few thousand miles and failed the same way the seals gave up diesel fuel washed out the bearings. Then I called again and AirDog upgraded me to the AirDog 165 GPH pump head. No issues since then. I kept my stock filter and install a 7um filter in the stock and 3um filter on the AirDog. Currently at 460k miles. Tidbit... 467k miles I'm made the trip to the moon and back. Then I'm going to load up and go again...

My last gasket I installed I just used the factory bolts over again. No issues.

I would use FelPro or Mahle gaskets over any Cummins gasket any day. Just a heads up Cummins does not produce gaskets like the head gasket is produced in China by BLK.

Only thing that is required that it is a GL-4 lubricant. I would suggest that you don't attempt to use the same factory weight of oil. Factory suggested viscosity I will say it too thin. Especially if you work your transmission heavy like I do. For sure add a transmission temperature gauge. I will admit I've ran a few times as high as 240*F which cause my last failure being the lube was too thin and started breaking down the viscosity and then taking the hard facing off the gears. 50 weight engine oil is equal to 90 weight gear lube. 75W-85 is equal to 10w30 engine oil just think when the temps rise to 200*F it does get get rather thin.

I dropped all the high price junk fluids (Mopar, Redline, AMSOil, Etc.)... I switched over to a synthetic 50 SAE used in Eaton Fuller 10 speed transmissions. So far had good results and no issues. The whole scare about it be too thick or affecting syncros is not true. Shift quality is great. I've used both Mobil 50 SAE Transmission Fluid and now using Valvoline 50 SAE Transmission fluid. No issues. I'm planning soon to drop the fluid out of Thor which is a G56 transmission (6 speed) and get rid of that junk ATF+4 and load it with Valvoline 50 SAE transmission fluid. I've done this for a previous customer as well and he loves it.

That's why I pick a product and do a review of the products I purchase. Everything I've done to my truck is all in history here on the website. If you want to do a Google search just add "site:mopar1973man.com" to the end of your search and it will dig through the website for what you are looking for. Like my example.

Here is the ISSPro EV2 software and the options. Showing my Pyrometer settings. Here is the entire post on it...

Daisy chained wiring... Sorry the photo is upside down but the boost fitting is just behind the fuel filter... My sensor are not on the engine but mounted on the fender... Boost and fuel pressure... Both pyrometer probes for the Quadzilla and ISSPro EV2... Needle valve and snubber just after... No sensor here its on the fender in the above photo.

I would highly suggest the ISSPro EV2 series over any other gauge on the market. ISSPro is USB programmable for the warning light, needle reaction speed, LED light to match the light level of the cluster, then you can even program a option relay to turn on and off different thing. Example Trans Temp gauge programmed for waring light at 220*F and then program the relay to switch on a cooling fan at 160*F. Then change the needle speed to be more average that accurate.

Varies... Might be as low 20 PSI or as high as 35 PSI. I know when I blew my head gasket I was shocked my ISSPro EV2 showed 53 PSI but the Quadzilla was 69 PSI shown in the logs. Boost gauge is the most accurate. The only thing the Quadzilla worries about is from 0 to 30 PSI being that is all the fuel map that it can calculate. Above that point it doesn't matter being it will use the +30 PSI fuel setting.

Yup. That was my mistake on my first Stealth Plate I grabbed the security 6 point torx but still didn't fit because it was a 5 point. Then seen in the bottom of the bag there was a Torx plus bit and BAM! Easy job when you have the right tools.

Yes Sir. I'm willing to work for you at a $100 a tune and give you unlimited updates for 30 days. We could get together on the phone gather up info make a base tune. Let you test drive call me back and we will produce a update tune. All the progress will be saved in the Download file and show all the progress so we can back up to a previous if needed. Let me know we can build tunes.